since paul mentioned an "aliphatic resin (AR) glue", will this be ok?
am petrified of buying the wrong stuff!
Danny--that's the stuff.
I believe that Rics R Us has changed hands in the last 18 months or so. If you do deal with them, remember that they are not an authorized Rick dealer. And do post your experiences on this Forum so we can all be informed, especially our UK brethren. (Haven't seen them mentioned here in a dog's life...).
since paul mentioned an "aliphatic resin (AR) glue", will this be ok?
am petrified of buying the wrong stuff!
Danny--that's the stuff.
I believe that Rics R Us has changed hands in the last 18 months or so. If you do deal with them, remember that they are not an authorized Rick dealer. And do post your experiences on this Forum so we can all be informed, especially our UK brethren. (Haven't seen them mentioned here in a dog's life...).
apart from several screws im after, rosetti dont carry the stuff im looking for ...
has anyone got any rick authorized suggestions available to some in the uk?
jingle_jangle wrote:I believe that Rics R Us has changed hands in the last 18 months or so. If you do deal with them, remember that they are not an authorized Rick dealer. And do post your experiences on this Forum so we can all be informed, especially our UK brethren. (Haven't seen them mentioned here in a dog's life...).
I dealt with them 3 times. (strings twice, white/vintage nut once). He is not the cheapest on the planet, but with one of our biggest Dutch Rickenbacker dealers telling me he just cant get accesoiries this is the cheapest option for me. Email questions get answered correctly. Shipment is as fast as he can ship. He sells via ebay too. I gave him positive feedback over there with reason. (I still wonder whatever happened to the original ricsrus owner and the -well-used- 4005 he sent me pictures off.)
drdanny wrote:
apart from several screws im after, rosetti dont carry the stuff im looking for ...
has anyone got any rick authorized suggestions available to some in the uk?
If you send me good, clear pictures of what you need, I'll try to help you out of my parts bins.
Dan,
I asked the guys at Ricsrus (now rickysounds) for a recommended Rick luthier and they gave me the number for Bob Barry who did set ups etc.for them.
He is in Birmingham (er the Midlands one you guys...not the one WAAY down South!) which is a bit of a trek from Manchester but I went ahead and took my CS for a fret dress.
He does a great job and seems to know his stuff. He also tidied up the nut when he did the frets.
If you want to give him a call its..0121-772-4873.
He is pretty low key,but he does work on Joe Browns guitars and some of the guys from Slade.
I wonder if he ever did any work on the John Birch bass they had?
If its just a straightforward job like the nut I know a chap in Sale Moor who has done some work on my Ibanez twin neck (the Gibson "lawsuit" headstock one).
I had new nuts and pickups installed on it and this guy did a good job of it.
PM me if you want this number too.
Welcome to the forum!
drdanny wrote:
apart from several screws im after, rosetti dont carry the stuff im looking for ...
has anyone got any rick authorized suggestions available to some in the uk?
If you send me good, clear pictures of what you need, I'll try to help you out of my parts bins.
ah ... i went to ricsrus this morning ... many many thanks for the kind offer
seyesbass wrote:Dan,
I asked the guys at Ricsrus (now rickysounds) for a recommended Rick luthier and they gave me the number for Bob Barry who did set ups etc.for them.
He is in Birmingham (er the Midlands one you guys...not the one WAAY down South!) which is a bit of a trek from Manchester but I went ahead and took my CS for a fret dress.
He does a great job and seems to know his stuff. He also tidied up the nut when he did the frets.
If you want to give him a call its..0121-772-4873.
He is pretty low key,but he does work on Joe Browns guitars and some of the guys from Slade.
I wonder if he ever did any work on the John Birch bass they had?
If its just a straightforward job like the nut I know a chap in Sale Moor who has done some work on my Ibanez twin neck (the Gibson "lawsuit" headstock one).
I had new nuts and pickups installed on it and this guy did a good job of it.
PM me if you want this number too.
Welcome to the forum!
greetings sir!
bolstered by my success thus far, im intent on giving it a go myself ...
however, i know my limits and may well be in touch at some point!
thanks!
danny
I had some dealings a couple of years ago when Mike Smith had RicRus and found him to be a really good guy. True... not cheap but he was as good as his word. I know nothing of Rickysounds but doing a comparison between these people and Rosetti I have found that Rosetti's spares are cheaper ! By quite a way too. That is something to think about for anybody looking for a Ric spare. I notice there are a couple of Ric dealers selling the 4003 quite a lot cheaper than Rickysounds as well. We are talking £4-600 here, not small amounts !
just a quick one for everyone, i ordered some parts via
ricsrus on monday and they arrived today ... cant argue
with that! the communication i had was very quick and
fast ... am pretty impressed thus far!
Looks like she is still in nice shape. About the pickup - I would ohm right at the pickup between the connection at the screw eyelet and the center of the coax lead - you need to get into the black shrink wrap covering where the coax black wire joins the lead out of the pickup. Should be around 8k ohms.
I'd bet you also have a bit of tail lift ("teeth" marks on the wood). Using small flat washers where the 3 screws under the bridge assy. go into the recessed wood won't let the metal tailpiece be pulled into the recess. When that happens, the end of the tailpiece is lifted off the body. If the tailpiece is now bent up, you can mount it to a board (putting a routed recess in the board helps) and use clamps and oven heat to bend it back flat.
johnallg wrote:Looks like she is still in nice shape. About the pickup - I would ohm right at the pickup between the connection at the screw eyelet and the center of the coax lead - you need to get into the black shrink wrap covering where the coax black wire joins the lead out of the pickup. Should be around 8k ohms.
I'd bet you also have a bit of tail lift ("teeth" marks on the wood). Using small flat washers where the 3 screws under the bridge assy. go into the recessed wood won't let the metal tailpiece be pulled into the recess. When that happens, the end of the tailpiece is lifted off the body. If the tailpiece is now bent up, you can mount it to a board (putting a routed recess in the board helps) and use clamps and oven heat to bend it back flat.
Nice 4001!
thankyou! and thanks for the advice!
please forgive me, though ... i dont quite understand ...
are you advising me to put washers in ? if so, where exactly ?
between the tailpiece and the body of the guitar ? any particular size ?
would appreciate your help! thanks!
Get different size small flat washers with holes large enough to let the tailpiece mounting screws to go through. I don't know how the metric sizes are over there, but somewhere around 8mm to 15mm diameter or so. Then you stack them in the tailpiece's wood routing area where the 3 screws under the bridge go in. Since it varies on each bass, stack washers (different diameter washers have different thicknesses, at least over here) until you only fill in the space between the maple and the tailpiece. Ted Staberow has shown a way to fit an appropriately sized piece of flat maple to fill that gap. Either way works, which results in better coupling of the tailpiece to the body (sustain and bass) and doesn't force that part of the tailpiece lower into the routed area, pressing the underside of the tailpiece into the maple body (see the parallel lines in your bass?) which forces the end of the tailpiece to lift up off the body, which gets exacerbated by the pull of the strings, raising it over time further.
johnallg wrote:Get different size small flat washers with holes large enough to let the tailpiece mounting screws to go through. I don't know how the metric sizes are over there, but somewhere around 8mm to 15mm diameter or so. Then you stack them in the tailpiece's wood routing area where the 3 screws under the bridge go in. Since it varies on each bass, stack washers (different diameter washers have different thicknesses, at least over here) until you only fill in the space between the maple and the tailpiece. Ted Staberow has shown a way to fit an appropriately sized piece of flat maple to fill that gap. Either way works, which results in better coupling of the tailpiece to the body (sustain and bass) and doesn't force that part of the tailpiece lower into the routed area, pressing the underside of the tailpiece into the maple body (see the parallel lines in your bass?) which forces the end of the tailpiece to lift up off the body, which gets exacerbated by the pull of the strings, raising it over time further.
Hope that is clear.
im pondering this at present ... thanks very much!
