Sanding down my 4001S - which sealer?

[thumper73533]

i've consided stripping my 06 4003 jetglow. (the paint is chiped from tail lift) is a job for the inexperienaced? and what about the body binding?

[jingle_jangle]

[quote="thumper73533"]i've consided stripping my 06 4003 jetglow. (the paint is chiped from tail lift) is a job for the inexperienaced? and what about the

It's tough to get a JG Rick looking clean again, especially new ones...the CV and paint really stick and often the black stays in the maple. I'd been told to try using acetone to "get the paint right out", but this didn't work 100%. The chemical stripper you would use attacks the binding, too. And the inlays in the fretboard...masking the fretboard is not always successful.

In short, although it could possibly be done by an inexperienced person, I can virtually guarantee that you would be very sorry you ever started doing this. There are lots of ways it could fail and few reasons to do this to a nearly-new bass.

My advice: touch up the chips. Try searching this site for touchup instructions--I've given them out at least a half-dozen times over the years.

BTW, the paint doesn't chip from tail lift--it chips from the tail digging in because the paint was soft and the tailpiece torqued down too much. This causes the CV to bubble a bit and eventually flake off.

[johnallg]

Hey Paul, in the interest of any future refinish, would you want to dab clear nail polish on the bare maple before putting a matching black nail polish on? Would that make those spots more apt to come clean(er) when a refin is done at any future time?

[jingle_jangle]

An interesting thought, John, but overkill. Nail polish doesn't penetrate maple like thinned-out, spraygunned Jetglo paint, so I wouldn't worry about spots. Paint away. You can be Goth, too!

[thumper73533]

i was told the tension of stainless steel strings could be causing tail lift. (i can't use nickle)

[jingle_jangle]

Ummm, yes, but my point is: tail lift does not cause paint chipping. Read my post above, carefully.

[johnallg]

Thanks for the clarification, Paul. I am not in the need of a hand painted Goth Rick though.

When I drilled the black tailpiece on my BT 4003S, I went to Walgreens and asked for advice on black polishes from a nice young lady. I ended up buying 3 different ones, and not having told her what it was for, I got some strange looks and vibes from her as I made my selection and purchase. You've seen me so you can appreciate my amusement.

[jingle_jangle]

You've seen me so you can appreciate my amusement.

I am also amused at your amusement!

[cboehmig]

Ta-da!

[cboehmig]

Also, I need a new digital camera apparently...

[jingle_jangle]

That's OK, we get it. Spectacular! Macca would be proud...

[cboehmig]

Thanks, man. Still planning on picking up some of that wax this weekend, too. I just couldn't wait to get all the hardware back on!

[berth]

Ta-da!

Looks good! I think I like this just as much as a brandnew MapleGlo and probably more than old and dull MapleGlo.

[jingle_jangle]

Just, please , bear in mind that this type of finish provides a small fraction of the protection of a CV finish, and must be renewed every so often, depending upon use. Without this oil and wax on the maple, it will go gray like driftwood in the areas where your body contacts it, from perspiration and dirt. If you perspire heavily, this will require regular attention.

RIC addresses this issue on the C64S by using a satin CV. Max protection with a nice, matte finish.