Tuning Stability
Moderator: jingle_jangle
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Jordan_Leff
Tuning Stability
Hi Mark,
We have a bunch of Rick's in my band ... none of our Ricks stay in tune great, but our 360v64 (its a 1997 six-string) just won't stay in tune at all. Now, I don't expect my Ricks to stay in tune as well as a Les Paul or a Tele. My 381 stays pretty well ... goes out every 4 or 5 songs... always the unwound G and the low E. But the 360v64 goes out about every minute and a half ... just playing rhythm, no bending strings, etc.
I am pretty experienced with Ricks but have never had this kind of problem before. We haven't had this guitar for too long, and the problem was there from the start (bought it used from Music Connection) Are there some possible causes? We've tried Rick strings and D'addario ... haven't tried Pyramids yet. Could this make a difference? Could it be the trapeze tailpiece (its seems to flex sooo much more than the R's) Any other ideas? Thanks so much in advance for your help.
We have a bunch of Rick's in my band ... none of our Ricks stay in tune great, but our 360v64 (its a 1997 six-string) just won't stay in tune at all. Now, I don't expect my Ricks to stay in tune as well as a Les Paul or a Tele. My 381 stays pretty well ... goes out every 4 or 5 songs... always the unwound G and the low E. But the 360v64 goes out about every minute and a half ... just playing rhythm, no bending strings, etc.
I am pretty experienced with Ricks but have never had this kind of problem before. We haven't had this guitar for too long, and the problem was there from the start (bought it used from Music Connection) Are there some possible causes? We've tried Rick strings and D'addario ... haven't tried Pyramids yet. Could this make a difference? Could it be the trapeze tailpiece (its seems to flex sooo much more than the R's) Any other ideas? Thanks so much in advance for your help.
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Dacious
Does this guitar have Schallers? Don't mean to be obvious, but the Ric I bought second hand (and cheap!) went out of tune constantly at first - the Schallers have adjustable freeplay and occasionally you need to nip up the adjusting screws in the tuning keys. I think that's why the last owner sold mine! It now stays in tune for days in it's case and can be played for a gig solid without untuning itself. Don't know if this applies to Grover keys.
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Mike_Schindler
What gauge strings do you have on now? Sounds like your axe needs a pro set up by a Ric expert.(truss rod,bridge adjustment, checking the nut,intonation) Then again maybe the tuners are bad or maybe the strings are defective.Do yourself a favor take it to a good set up person and let him adjust it to your liking.
Changing string brands is NOT going to solve the tuning issue.
You are having a mechanical difficulty.
The problem is one of these;
the tuners are loose,tighten the mounting screws,
the tuner casings are coming apart,
the slots in the nut are binding,
the slots in the nut are chewed up,
the saddle slots are binding,
the bridge is Not sitting on all 4 posts,
the tailpiece is not anchored.
One part or more is the cause of your problems.
go to my first posting on this site...
HOW NOT TO ADJUST THE TRUSS ROD,
go thru the check list and then look at every facet of this new check list.
You WILL find it.
Now if there is nothing wrong after you do this and the guitars STILLNdon't behave.There is one more thing
Do you really know how to install strings correctly?
There are 2 really good ways and many BAD ways.
You are having a mechanical difficulty.
The problem is one of these;
the tuners are loose,tighten the mounting screws,
the tuner casings are coming apart,
the slots in the nut are binding,
the slots in the nut are chewed up,
the saddle slots are binding,
the bridge is Not sitting on all 4 posts,
the tailpiece is not anchored.
One part or more is the cause of your problems.
go to my first posting on this site...
HOW NOT TO ADJUST THE TRUSS ROD,
go thru the check list and then look at every facet of this new check list.
You WILL find it.
Now if there is nothing wrong after you do this and the guitars STILLNdon't behave.There is one more thing
Do you really know how to install strings correctly?
There are 2 really good ways and many BAD ways.
So you too want yours "ALAPWOB"?!?!
I'm not knocking the look of the 'R' tailpiece ,I just don't think it is nearly as stable as the vintage,not by a long shot.
It is very distinct and easily identifiable .A true trademark.
But it shifts from side to side.You really must (when restringing ) tune the guitar from the outside to the center-meaning tune both the 'E' strings then the 'A' and the 'B' and then the 'D' and the 'G'.Then go back over and do it again.
I NEVER do this with my Les Paul or Telecasters
they do not have a trapeze tailpiece and are rock solid.
This is why I like the vintage tailpiece,It doesn't rock and you can tune it anyway you want .
It is very distinct and easily identifiable .A true trademark.
But it shifts from side to side.You really must (when restringing ) tune the guitar from the outside to the center-meaning tune both the 'E' strings then the 'A' and the 'B' and then the 'D' and the 'G'.Then go back over and do it again.
I NEVER do this with my Les Paul or Telecasters
they do not have a trapeze tailpiece and are rock solid.
This is why I like the vintage tailpiece,It doesn't rock and you can tune it anyway you want .
So you too want yours "ALAPWOB"?!?!
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Gary_Cost
Well the best way is what has become known as the CF Martin method.they published this for years.It works great until you are on a gig and you break a string and you must undo the 'backaround loop' .that will slow things down.
Because the posts on ALL modern tuners is wasp waisted and the string feed hole is in the middle of it.i use this method .
Take a string and give enough slack to fit 4 fingers between the string and the fretboard,put the string into the tuner and wrap one loop around the top of the post,now loop the rest of the string down.You must do this evenly or the windings will slip if they overlap.
do all the strings this way,then with the wound strings pull them to stretch them out .Pull the "G" string by itself and (so you won't tend to snap the others) pull both the "B" and the High "E" together.Tune and stretch them out again.
tune again and you should be rocking away.
Special thanks to Jerry Baxter and Klaus Heyne.
Because the posts on ALL modern tuners is wasp waisted and the string feed hole is in the middle of it.i use this method .
Take a string and give enough slack to fit 4 fingers between the string and the fretboard,put the string into the tuner and wrap one loop around the top of the post,now loop the rest of the string down.You must do this evenly or the windings will slip if they overlap.
do all the strings this way,then with the wound strings pull them to stretch them out .Pull the "G" string by itself and (so you won't tend to snap the others) pull both the "B" and the High "E" together.Tune and stretch them out again.
tune again and you should be rocking away.
Special thanks to Jerry Baxter and Klaus Heyne.
So you too want yours "ALAPWOB"?!?!
