Rick-O-Sound
Moderators: rickenbrother, ajish4
- soundmasterg
- RRF Consultant
- Posts: 1923
- Joined: Tue Oct 01, 2002 1:06 pm
Yes you're absolutely correct about the cost of my 6 meter long Canare Y cable, Mr Hall.
8 meters of cable material was actually used for the "split".
I forgot to mention that I was lucky in that I bought the Canare cable and Neutrik plugs from my studio "at cost", which had been bought in very large quantities to route the 5 studio complex, hence the low low price ($1.2 USD/meter). And my assistant engineer did it for free for me in exchange for some engineering lessons from me. Lucky me, haha!
It would cost about $50-$60 if I were to get such a Y cord from a pro-audio shop, with Canare or Mogami cables. With a price like that, I'd opt for the RIC ROS box and change the TRS plug to a right-angled Nutrik one.
My studio uses Mogami 1' and 2' patch cords for working the patch bays and they're the best patch cords commercially available.
8 meters of cable material was actually used for the "split".
I forgot to mention that I was lucky in that I bought the Canare cable and Neutrik plugs from my studio "at cost", which had been bought in very large quantities to route the 5 studio complex, hence the low low price ($1.2 USD/meter). And my assistant engineer did it for free for me in exchange for some engineering lessons from me. Lucky me, haha!
It would cost about $50-$60 if I were to get such a Y cord from a pro-audio shop, with Canare or Mogami cables. With a price like that, I'd opt for the RIC ROS box and change the TRS plug to a right-angled Nutrik one.
My studio uses Mogami 1' and 2' patch cords for working the patch bays and they're the best patch cords commercially available.
All of my studio cables are Mogami and you can't beat the stuff. The Neutrik connectors are also the best but a bit hard to come by here, and decidely overpriced, so we/I use Switchcraft which is more than adequate and certainly utilitarian. Canare also makes some nice connectors.
Unfortunately, the standard guitar cable that comes in the kit isn't a separate part. Not a bad idea though.
I still recommend that someone thinking about ROS get a cheap Radio Shack stereo-Y cord, give it a try (ignoring the hum and treble loss) to see if it's useful to you. Then get a kit or find/make a quality cord. Or not.
Unfortunately, the standard guitar cable that comes in the kit isn't a separate part. Not a bad idea though.
I still recommend that someone thinking about ROS get a cheap Radio Shack stereo-Y cord, give it a try (ignoring the hum and treble loss) to see if it's useful to you. Then get a kit or find/make a quality cord. Or not.
- soundmasterg
- RRF Consultant
- Posts: 1923
- Joined: Tue Oct 01, 2002 1:06 pm
I wish I could figure out why when I use the ROS setup, changes I make to the bridge pickup tone control will affect the sound of the neck pickup and vice versa even though they are plugged into different amps. Could something be shorting out or be wired wrong internally that could cause this? Its really aggrevating because I'd like to use the ROS in the studio but can't because of this!
- soundmasterg
- RRF Consultant
- Posts: 1923
- Joined: Tue Oct 01, 2002 1:06 pm
Yep, I'm using the ROS box with the stereo cable, plugged into the stereo jack on the bass. Out of the other end of the ROS box, it has two mono cables, which each go to a seperate amp. If I adjust the tone control on the bridge pickup, I cna hear a change in the sound on the amp the neck pickup is plugged into and vice versa. I looked at the wiring and all seems just like the schematic to me. I'm completely baffled.
- soundmasterg
- RRF Consultant
- Posts: 1923
- Joined: Tue Oct 01, 2002 1:06 pm
The ROS box has done this since I got it new, and it worked fine on a bass in the store, so I know its not the box. I'm pretty sure its in my bass, but what exactly is wrong in there, I can't figure out. I'm guessing something is touching where it shouldn't be, but beyond that I have no idea. I was under the impresion that the sounds should be seperate when using the ROS setup, so I'm glad to hear that confirmed. I did put shielding paint in the cavity and maybe something is shorting into that? I'll have to try it with the pickguard loose or with a towel or something seperating it from the cavity to see if that is the cause. Any other ideas? Thanks for your help!
Check the standard output jack as that has a switch to short the output to mono that may not be working properly. See the schematics below:
www.rickenbacker.com/us/19507.htm
www.rickenbacker.com/us/19507.htm
Greg, is the output from the Standard jack normal, i.e. the pickups can be switched and controlled correctly? If not, I think that the problem is more convoluted than being in just one jack.
I would probably check for continuity between various areas of the wiring harness to see whether there were some parts that were connected when they shouldn't be.
I would probably check for continuity between various areas of the wiring harness to see whether there were some parts that were connected when they shouldn't be.
It is better, of course, to know useless things than to know nothing. - Seneca
