Luthier NJ area
Moderator: jingle_jangle
Luthier NJ area
Can anyone recommend a good Luthier in the New Jersey area with Ric exp.?
I have a 4003 with a neck that I just can't get right on my own.
Thanks
I have a 4003 with a neck that I just can't get right on my own.
Thanks
Re: Luthier NJ area
Try Chris at Pick Of The Ricks.
Re: Luthier NJ area
+1jps wrote:Try Chris at Pick Of The Ricks.
Re: Luthier NJ area
Thanks guys, Chris did a set up on it and also changed the nut but still was not able to
get the action low without fret buzz.
The neck seems to have a twist to it being pretty straight
on the treble side but having a dip or two on the bass side.
I've heard some good things about heat treatment but I'm not willing to take on
a project like that myself.
get the action low without fret buzz.
The neck seems to have a twist to it being pretty straight
on the treble side but having a dip or two on the bass side.
I've heard some good things about heat treatment but I'm not willing to take on
a project like that myself.
Re: Luthier NJ area
Have you checked into fret leveling? Maybe there are some high frets.
Re: Luthier NJ area
I had the same situation with one of my RICS.
I had to make a choice of either having the frets pulled and the fingerboard sanded down level, or TRYING the heat & clamp treatment.
My luthier decided that the HEAT & CLAMP process was worth a try. It took 3 to 4 weeks for the process. BUT, I'm glad to report, it was a COMPLETE success.
It was done about 2 years ago, and I've NEVER had another problem with it. It now has the lowest action of all of my RICS.
I don't know of anyone in NJ, but be patient, someone will come up with something.
I'm in Florida, I but SHOULD you want to ship it, I'd be more than happy to lend a hand. My luthier is a perfectionist. He does work for many professional touring musicians.
And he is VERY REASONABLE.
PM me if you need a hand if you can't find anything local.
I had to make a choice of either having the frets pulled and the fingerboard sanded down level, or TRYING the heat & clamp treatment.
My luthier decided that the HEAT & CLAMP process was worth a try. It took 3 to 4 weeks for the process. BUT, I'm glad to report, it was a COMPLETE success.
It was done about 2 years ago, and I've NEVER had another problem with it. It now has the lowest action of all of my RICS.
I don't know of anyone in NJ, but be patient, someone will come up with something.
I'm in Florida, I but SHOULD you want to ship it, I'd be more than happy to lend a hand. My luthier is a perfectionist. He does work for many professional touring musicians.
And he is VERY REASONABLE.
PM me if you need a hand if you can't find anything local.
Re: Luthier NJ area
Yes Jeff, I think thats a possibility as well.jps wrote:Have you checked into fret leveling? Maybe there are some high frets.
Thanks Tony, that gives me hope and I'll keep your offer in mind.ajish4 wrote:I had the same situation with one of my RICS.
I had to make a choice of either having the frets pulled and the fingerboard sanded down level, or TRYING the heat & clamp treatment.
My luthier decided that the HEAT & CLAMP process was worth a try. It took 3 to 4 weeks for the process. BUT, I'm glad to report, it was a COMPLETE success.
It was done about 2 years ago, and I've NEVER had another problem with it. It now has the lowest action of all of my RICS.
I don't know of anyone in NJ, but be patient, someone will come up with something.
I'm in Florida, I but SHOULD you want to ship it, I'd be more than happy to lend a hand. My luthier is a perfectionist. He does work for many professional touring musicians.
And he is VERY REASONABLE.
PM me if you need a hand if you can't find anything local.
Re: Luthier NJ area
I would first look at the truss rod on the bass side to see what shape it is in.
Re: Luthier NJ area
John, both rods are responsive to tightening/loosening.johnallg wrote:I would first look at the truss rod on the bass side to see what shape it is in.
I did try turning the bass rod at the body end 180 deg. but it didn't seem to make a difference.
- jingle_jangle
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Re: Luthier NJ area
Robert, since you've already had one rod out, why not pull them both and put a 1" back bow into them, and then re-insert and adjust, and see if that helps any?
Re: Luthier NJ area
Paul, Your right of course. I had the rods pulled out about 3" until they hit the edge of the neck cavity and then chickenedjingle_jangle wrote:Robert, since you've already had one rod out, why not pull them both and put a 1" back bow into them, and then re-insert and adjust, and see if that helps any?
out when it was time to pull them up and over the cavity edge. Thoughts of popping the fret board off were to much for me to handle.
BTW the bass rod was a lot more difficult to pull out then the treble. perhaps the treble rod has less bend?
- jingle_jangle
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Re: Luthier NJ area
OK, Robert, here's the trick:
Put a couple of layers of masking tape on that Sacred Edge (and, hey, it's under the TRC anyway, so a little nick just shows it you love it, all right?
). I use a pair of needlenose Vice Grips to grab the rod by the nut and pull outward and up at the same time. Once the tip is free of the Sacred Edge, you can tug to your heart's content.
Once the rods are pulled, you should clean them with a rotary wire brush or a piece of medium Scotch-Brite until shiny. Replace the cushioning tape if necessary, re-arch, and lightly grease the rod with vaseline. Lightly. Then re-insert, using the Vice Grips again to ease things over the Edge,slide on spacer, screw on nuts and snug up for initial tension about 1/2 turn beyong grabbing point.
You're good to go...
Put a couple of layers of masking tape on that Sacred Edge (and, hey, it's under the TRC anyway, so a little nick just shows it you love it, all right?
Once the rods are pulled, you should clean them with a rotary wire brush or a piece of medium Scotch-Brite until shiny. Replace the cushioning tape if necessary, re-arch, and lightly grease the rod with vaseline. Lightly. Then re-insert, using the Vice Grips again to ease things over the Edge,slide on spacer, screw on nuts and snug up for initial tension about 1/2 turn beyong grabbing point.
You're good to go...
Re: Luthier NJ area
Thanks Paul, I'll give it a try but just to be clear I had the rods pulled out at the body side.
That is the correct way pull them out, right?
That is the correct way pull them out, right?
Re: Luthier NJ area
No, you take the nut off at the body end and then push the rod back in and remove from the headstock end.
Re: Luthier NJ area
Damn, I had it bass ackwards 
that would probably make it a lot easier
Thanks John
that would probably make it a lot easier
Thanks John
