Re-Stringing
Moderator: jingle_jangle
Re-Stringing
Normally when I replace the strings on my 12's I just replace one at a time. However, this time I have to re-string from scratch, which I haven't done before. What is the best way to go about this on an 'R' tailpiece without becoming so frustrated I want to poke my eyes out with an ice pick?
- beatlefreak
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Re: Re-Stringing
Octaves first. Many people put the low E octave and one of the high E strings in place to hold the R tailpiece on the guitar straight. Also, lots of people insert all of the ball ends of the strings in the tailpice, then use a piece of tape to hold them in there until the guitar is strung. Then the tape can be pulled off.
Re: Re-Stringing
+1 for the tape method. Anything else is too much fiddling and slipping . Sometimes it's necessary to use tape even to get a single string replaced. Dunno why it's so hard. That's one of the reasons I replaced my "R" with an accent.
All I wanna do is rock!
Re: Re-Stringing
kiramdear wrote:+1 for the tape method. Anything else is too much fiddling and slipping . Sometimes it's necessary to use tape even to get a single string replaced. Dunno why it's so hard. That's one of the reasons I replaced my "R" with an accent.
An accent or trapeze wouldn't look too slick with black trim/hardware, but granted, much easier. Never had any problem replacing one string at a time, but this is a little different.
Re: Re-Stringing
Oh, I like black trim/hardware on ricks. What model is yours?
All I wanna do is rock!
- jingle_jangle
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Re: Re-Stringing
Taping the ball ends in all at once is an exercise in confusion and frustration--it's like trying to untangle a spider's web.
Here's the easiest way that I've found to get the task done:
Before you begin, have some masking tape ready. Don't place the bridge on the guitar yet, but have it within arm's reach. You should use a string winder and a nice pair of hardened side-cutters, as music wire will nick the heck out of a non-hardened pair.
1. Put a small piece of cloth under the tailpiece area on the guitar's top--prevents scratches and nicks.
2. Set tailpiece in place and secure to bracket with a bit of masking tape.
3. String low E (#1) and high E (#12) first, to get tailpiece floating and begin to equalize the pull. Don't tune anything to pitch until you're done with all 12 strings, though. Just wind them tight. Where to clip the strings to get just thr right number of turns around the posts? My rule of thumb is to cut the string one post overlength (about 1 1/2") for the lowest 3 strings, and 1 1/2 post overlength (2") for the 9 other strings.
4. Slide the bridge into place with the two E strings holding it down; loosen these a bit to get it under the strings.
5. String in order, alternating between the two sides of the peghead. If you don't, the over/under pattern for the main and octave strings won't fall together properly. So the stringing order should be:
#1E, #12E, #11E, #2EO, #3A, #10B, #4AO, #9B, #5D, #8GO, #6DO, #7G.
Tune to pitch beginning with the low #1 E and working up to the highest. Repeat until in tune. Be sure to stretch strings adequately by pulling them vertically between thumb and forefinger, away from the fretboard. Then tighten.
One other trick: String winders sometimes have problems with the spacing on Rick 12s. I always align the tuning keys parallel with the edge of the peghead when fast-winding the strings with the tool, to minimize interference with the winding tool when I'm stringing up adjacent strings. Then, the tuning keys can fall where they may in tuning to pitch by hand.
Here's the easiest way that I've found to get the task done:
Before you begin, have some masking tape ready. Don't place the bridge on the guitar yet, but have it within arm's reach. You should use a string winder and a nice pair of hardened side-cutters, as music wire will nick the heck out of a non-hardened pair.
1. Put a small piece of cloth under the tailpiece area on the guitar's top--prevents scratches and nicks.
2. Set tailpiece in place and secure to bracket with a bit of masking tape.
3. String low E (#1) and high E (#12) first, to get tailpiece floating and begin to equalize the pull. Don't tune anything to pitch until you're done with all 12 strings, though. Just wind them tight. Where to clip the strings to get just thr right number of turns around the posts? My rule of thumb is to cut the string one post overlength (about 1 1/2") for the lowest 3 strings, and 1 1/2 post overlength (2") for the 9 other strings.
4. Slide the bridge into place with the two E strings holding it down; loosen these a bit to get it under the strings.
5. String in order, alternating between the two sides of the peghead. If you don't, the over/under pattern for the main and octave strings won't fall together properly. So the stringing order should be:
#1E, #12E, #11E, #2EO, #3A, #10B, #4AO, #9B, #5D, #8GO, #6DO, #7G.
Tune to pitch beginning with the low #1 E and working up to the highest. Repeat until in tune. Be sure to stretch strings adequately by pulling them vertically between thumb and forefinger, away from the fretboard. Then tighten.
One other trick: String winders sometimes have problems with the spacing on Rick 12s. I always align the tuning keys parallel with the edge of the peghead when fast-winding the strings with the tool, to minimize interference with the winding tool when I'm stringing up adjacent strings. Then, the tuning keys can fall where they may in tuning to pitch by hand.
Re: Re-Stringing
Stan ignore all above posts!
OK
open a beer.
get the guitar out
take out the strings
have another beer
if you have kids its good to send them to their rooms and tell them they are grounded for being quiet! it works
open a beer
clean guitar with spit and polish.A good gob will do
string up in any fashion you desire
have a beer
get out tuner
have a beer
tune up
play for about 5 mins
watch TV
get a beer
bed.!
Ok hope this helps!
cheers!
OK
open a beer.
get the guitar out
take out the strings
have another beer
if you have kids its good to send them to their rooms and tell them they are grounded for being quiet! it works
open a beer
clean guitar with spit and polish.A good gob will do
string up in any fashion you desire
have a beer
get out tuner
have a beer
tune up
play for about 5 mins
watch TV
get a beer
bed.!
Ok hope this helps!
cheers!
- jingle_jangle
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Re: Re-Stringing
Scotty:
Could we have those steps numbered, please. Beer blurs things usually.
Could we have those steps numbered, please. Beer blurs things usually.
Re: Re-Stringing
Some folks use a capo to clamp the strings also!
Re: Re-Stringing
And a good six-pack runs about the same as a new set of strings, sadly.
Maybe I'll switch to cheaper strings ...
All I wanna do is rock!
Re: Re-Stringing
Must admit, I kinda like Scott's idea, if he'd added about two or three more beers. By the time I either finished the last beer or the re-stringing, I wouldn't give a rat's a-- how it all turned out, until the next day.
Thanks for the tips, Paul.
Kira, the black hardware goes to my '93 360 MG.
Thanks for the tips, Paul.
Kira, the black hardware goes to my '93 360 MG.
