New Rickenbacker, clean up stand stain/ transfer

[jingle_jangle]

Seriously, ask Paul W. (jingle_jangle) in the "Reflections of a Curmudgeon" section. He's an expert Rickenbacker refinisher/restorer who knows just about everything about the finish materials used on Ricks. I know for removing various scratches, he recommends a type of rubbing/polishing compound (automotive, one kind is called T-cut, the other is by 3M I think), followed by Scratch-X then Zymol wax. There are numerous threads on this sort of procedure, scratch/haze removal that is.

I'm not sure if these will remove the stains you have, probably depends on how deep they go into the finish. But in any case, Paul W. will be able to give you expert advice on the subject.

Oh, and welcome to the forum! Nice looking bass!

I'll save you the trouble...This type of stain is seldom right on the surface of the conversion varnish. The plasticizers in the stand's cushions have migrated into the finish of the bass, and taken some of the cushion's pigment with them. Result is a brown stain like the ones you're seeing.

From the photos, these look like long-term stains, and the longer the bass was left in its stand, the less likely the stains will polish out. I see the conversion varnish as being stained all the way through, and it's probable that if this is the case, the white finish is also stained. However, there's a small chance that the stain is only on the surface. Here's how to find out:

Brasso is for metal. I'd use some fine automotive polishing compound on a small square of cotton t-shirt or cloth diaper, and rub on the flat bottom instrument edge--stay away from the sharp radii and corners at first. If you have success removing the stain in a small area, you can go after the entire stain bit by bit. If you see no result, stop and call it a day. At least it won't get any worse!

Rubbing too much, or too vigorously on a corner, and you'll see the white disappear and bare maple appear--not good, as it means you've rubbed the entire finish off.

We're rooting for you.

[s4001]

You hardly see whites in such good condition - and at such a steal of a price. I'd look at the two stand stains and smile all the way to the bank and rock 'er like I stole 'er.

[kiramdear]

I'd look at the two stand stains and smile all the way to the bank and rock 'er like I stole 'er.

I hear you. When I shop for a used player guitar I love dings, stains, buckle rash for what they represent: a heckuva discount! Sounds like he got a good price for a very small issue. Yeah, man! I'd be rockin' and grinnin'.

[Sean.Robinson]

Seriously, ask Paul W. (jingle_jangle) in the "Reflections of a Curmudgeon" section. He's an expert Rickenbacker refinisher/restorer who knows just about everything about the finish materials used on Ricks. I know for removing various scratches, he recommends a type of rubbing/polishing compound (automotive, one kind is called T-cut, the other is by 3M I think), followed by Scratch-X then Zymol wax. There are numerous threads on this sort of procedure, scratch/haze removal that is.

I'm not sure if these will remove the stains you have, probably depends on how deep they go into the finish. But in any case, Paul W. will be able to give you expert advice on the subject.

Oh, and welcome to the forum! Nice looking bass!

I'll save you the trouble...This type of stain is seldom right on the surface of the conversion varnish. The plasticizers in the stand's cushions have migrated into the finish of the bass, and taken some of the cushion's pigment with them. Result is a brown stain like the ones you're seeing.

From the photos, these look like long-term stains, and the longer the bass was left in its stand, the less likely the stains will polish out. I see the conversion varnish as being stained all the way through, and it's probable that if this is the case, the white finish is also stained. However, there's a small chance that the stain is only on the surface. Here's how to find out:

Brasso is for metal. I'd use some fine automotive polishing compound on a small square of cotton t-shirt or cloth diaper, and rub on the flat bottom instrument edge--stay away from the sharp radii and corners at first. If you have success removing the stain in a small area, you can go after the entire stain bit by bit. If you see no result, stop and call it a day. At least it won't get any worse!

Rubbing too much, or too vigorously on a corner, and you'll see the white disappear and bare maple appear--not good, as it means you've rubbed the entire finish off.

We're rooting for you.

Ok, thanks for the great advice, as you say ill try it on a small area and if it works great, if not like others say grin and smile, it is a very minor issue and one i am more than happy with it, i just figured no point in ignoring it if there was something that could be done. Ill let you and everyone else know how it turns out, though it will probably be a bit over a week before its in my hands.

Again thanks for all the help from everyone, it is very much appreciated and thank you for all investing your time into my issue.