Price guide?
Moderators: rickenbrother, ajish4
-
shamustwin
- Senior Member
- Posts: 5287
- Joined: Tue Apr 29, 2003 5:00 am
Ilan,
right you are, but...if a semi casual lurker sees a ric bass set at too high a price, they might pull the trigger thinking, "man these are going up, better grab it", thus making the seller's opinion a reality. CS or v63, anyone?
It's probably good for Rickenbacker's image as a whole to have some prices climb.
right you are, but...if a semi casual lurker sees a ric bass set at too high a price, they might pull the trigger thinking, "man these are going up, better grab it", thus making the seller's opinion a reality. CS or v63, anyone?
It's probably good for Rickenbacker's image as a whole to have some prices climb.
Kendall, thaaaannnkkkkssss ffffoooorrrr theeeee liiiinnnnkkkk (I'm still shaking from seeing all of Simon Mole's basses! UNCLE!!!).
Back to the price guide: my perspective on it is that it woould be more of an archive of what the price was on such-and-such a date. It would also have a distinction with regard to actual selling price (that is, guitars that indeed sold) versus asking price (like those on GuitarBase, or on eBay where the reserve wasn't met or no bids were placed).
I concur with Brian about the often laughable prices put on some guitars in the current price guides. In particular, Rickenbacker acoustics from the 1960s are given some small value; I have never even seen one (not counting 360Fs, I think of them as electrics) for sale anywhere! How can the books put an accurate value on them?
Back to the price guide: my perspective on it is that it woould be more of an archive of what the price was on such-and-such a date. It would also have a distinction with regard to actual selling price (that is, guitars that indeed sold) versus asking price (like those on GuitarBase, or on eBay where the reserve wasn't met or no bids were placed).
I concur with Brian about the often laughable prices put on some guitars in the current price guides. In particular, Rickenbacker acoustics from the 1960s are given some small value; I have never even seen one (not counting 360Fs, I think of them as electrics) for sale anywhere! How can the books put an accurate value on them?
It is better, of course, to know useless things than to know nothing. - Seneca
- squirebass
- Veteran RRF member
- Posts: 1579
- Joined: Fri Oct 13, 2000 11:05 pm
How could you put a value on one of the seven 325s that were made in the same batch as Lennons?
I think only one of those have ever surfaced, maybe none. Some of you Rick Guitar experts correct me if I'm wrong here, or inaccurate about the original 325s... Some guitars are so rare that the market is defined by maybe only one seller, in that case the skys the limit!
I think only one of those have ever surfaced, maybe none. Some of you Rick Guitar experts correct me if I'm wrong here, or inaccurate about the original 325s... Some guitars are so rare that the market is defined by maybe only one seller, in that case the skys the limit!
"This is the big one, Elizabeth, I'm coming to join ya, honey!"
Gene, that's the reason for the guide. Not just to tell you what an 88 4003 is going for but, to educate.
Rarities have to be indentified, not just for value but, so collector's don't get taken by being told"yeah this is what Lennon used". They have to learn how to identify what they're buying.
Rarities have to be indentified, not just for value but, so collector's don't get taken by being told"yeah this is what Lennon used". They have to learn how to identify what they're buying.
" It's not where you are, it's who you're with.".
Or how about my 1977 4000FL BG, which one of the price guides doesn't even mention, let alone give a value to?
Other factors affecting value are color and year. For example, my 1987 320 Silver
should be worth more than a comparable-condition Jetglo. My 1984 325v59 and my 1970 331LS are both from the first year of manufacture and should also have slightly higher values for that reason. That's why a simple retrospective listing of what sold and at what price is better than some sort of all-inclusive prospective price list for all models (which is what the published guides are trying to provide).
Other factors affecting value are color and year. For example, my 1987 320 Silver
should be worth more than a comparable-condition Jetglo. My 1984 325v59 and my 1970 331LS are both from the first year of manufacture and should also have slightly higher values for that reason. That's why a simple retrospective listing of what sold and at what price is better than some sort of all-inclusive prospective price list for all models (which is what the published guides are trying to provide).
It is better, of course, to know useless things than to know nothing. - Seneca
-
shamustwin
- Senior Member
- Posts: 5287
- Joined: Tue Apr 29, 2003 5:00 am
- atomic_punk
- Senior Member
- Posts: 5093
- Joined: Wed Sep 17, 2003 5:00 am
- Contact:
Ignoring the FIFO principle:
Steve, here are some pics of my 1970 331LS:

The top picture is the guitar as received, missing its bridge, bridge plate, tailpiece, and nut. The second picture is a view of the lights and mylar lining. The third picture is a close-up of one of the exposed-pole high gains (like the ones Kenny is now trying to find). The bottom picture is the guitar after restoration and actually producing light for the first time in 20+ years.
Kendall, I'm just a hack bass player, so take my opinion with a very large grain of NaCl. The 4000FL plays great to me. It has a very mellow sound (think "Walk Away Renee") when the tone is cranked to the bass sude, but, surprisingly, it has a bit of a bite when the tone is cranked to the treble end. I have F***** nylon-wrapped flats on it right now and like them. I have Rotosound flats on my 4003FL TUR:
mainly because black strings would look a bit goofy to me. My other RIC basses have roundwounds, but I might put a set of the black nylon-wrapped flats on the Redneck when I get around to restringing it, just because black on black looks so good.
But I guess I should do that on the Tuxedo, too...
Steve, here are some pics of my 1970 331LS:

The top picture is the guitar as received, missing its bridge, bridge plate, tailpiece, and nut. The second picture is a view of the lights and mylar lining. The third picture is a close-up of one of the exposed-pole high gains (like the ones Kenny is now trying to find). The bottom picture is the guitar after restoration and actually producing light for the first time in 20+ years.
Kendall, I'm just a hack bass player, so take my opinion with a very large grain of NaCl. The 4000FL plays great to me. It has a very mellow sound (think "Walk Away Renee") when the tone is cranked to the bass sude, but, surprisingly, it has a bit of a bite when the tone is cranked to the treble end. I have F***** nylon-wrapped flats on it right now and like them. I have Rotosound flats on my 4003FL TUR:
mainly because black strings would look a bit goofy to me. My other RIC basses have roundwounds, but I might put a set of the black nylon-wrapped flats on the Redneck when I get around to restringing it, just because black on black looks so good.
But I guess I should do that on the Tuxedo, too...
It is better, of course, to know useless things than to know nothing. - Seneca


Those are among my faves of all time.