The tool is kind've big so they don't supply it. I think it'd be cool if they did but it's obviously got to cost WAY more than a allen wrench. Those allen wrenches you got go to the bridge height and pickup pole height adjustments.
So this 1/4' nut driver looks just like a screwdriver but with a hole in the end instead of a point, correct? I think I used to have one of those but I have no idea where it could be.
Hum is an environmental issue. My 4003 rarely hums but I know how to make it hum if I want to--get it around the right kind of lighting, etc. Shielding is only semi-beneficial at best. You could try a power-conditioner I guess, or a noise gate, but I don't like noise gates much.
Experiment with where you plug your bass in, what other appliances are on or plugged in, etc. Dimmer switches, TVs, neon signs, etc. can all be a problem.
Ah..that could be the problem. I have the amp sitting right next to the tv and I have one of those torchere lamps on about 5 ft. away.
This is the same tool RIC uses. The description is wrong, even on the Xcelite site, as I bought this exact one and it is 1/4" - click on the customer images and zoom it and you'll see it says 1/4".
This is the same tool RIC uses. The description is wrong, even on the Xcelite site, as I bought this exact one and it is 1/4" - click on the customer images and zoom it and you'll see it says 1/4".
cassius987 wrote: You can either turn the rods clockwise (1/4 turn a day per rod) or do a manual adjustment, which I prefer. To do a good manual adjustment: have a friend hold the bass on a table by tail end, face up on a towel, with the neck hanging over the edge a bit. Press it down firmly but gently, twist each rods 1/4 turn or 1/2 turn to hold your adjustment. This way you do the work, not the rods. This is much more efficient (and accurate).
I'm confused. Surely it depends on pre-85/post-85 model of bass? A brand new 4003 straight out of the case being bent over a table with half turns being applied? That makes me nervous, or am I missing something here?
cassius987 wrote: You can either turn the rods clockwise (1/4 turn a day per rod) or do a manual adjustment, which I prefer. To do a good manual adjustment: have a friend hold the bass on a table by tail end, face up on a towel, with the neck hanging over the edge a bit. Press it down firmly but gently, twist each rods 1/4 turn or 1/2 turn to hold your adjustment. This way you do the work, not the rods. This is much more efficient (and accurate).
I'm confused. Surely it depends on pre-85/post-85 model of bass? A brand new 4003 straight out of the case being bent over a table with half turns being applied? That makes me nervous, or am I missing something here?
Yep, you're missing something. Namely, the fact that manual adjustment works for ALL truss rod systems whatever. RIC points this out in their manual. So while pre-85 basses REQUIRED manual adjustment, for post-85 basses it is OPTIONAL. It is also an option that I use for my Jazz Bass. Plenty of people do this with non-RIC instruments. It's not scary and it's kinder to the truss rod(s).
cassius987 wrote:
Yep, you're missing something. Namely, the fact that manual adjustment works for ALL truss rod systems whatever. RIC points this out in their manual. So while pre-85 basses REQUIRED manual adjustment, for post-85 basses it is OPTIONAL. It is also an option that I use for my Jazz Bass. Plenty of people do this with non-RIC instruments. It's not scary and it's kinder to the truss rod(s).
Make sense?
Not really. It says nothing about the old method of adjustment in my manual and I always thought the old method was possible becaue the rod system was different. If a new Ric owner had a problem and was explaining to Customer Service how they had been bending the neck over a table, I just wonder how sympathetic they would be.
What I've found with the new rods is any seasonal changes due to humidity (or lack of) can be dealt with easily with just about a quarter turn of one or both rods. Once you have a good setup, that amount of turn is usually adequate as it makes a lot of difference in the neck. Also, with that little amount, the rods/neck will tolerate it without assistance, though that can't hurt helping them.
cassius987 wrote:
Yep, you're missing something. Namely, the fact that manual adjustment works for ALL truss rod systems whatever. RIC points this out in their manual. So while pre-85 basses REQUIRED manual adjustment, for post-85 basses it is OPTIONAL. It is also an option that I use for my Jazz Bass. Plenty of people do this with non-RIC instruments. It's not scary and it's kinder to the truss rod(s).
Make sense?
Not really. It says nothing about the old method of adjustment in my manual and I always thought the old method was possible becaue the rod system was different. If a new Ric owner had a problem and was explaining to Customer Service how they had been bending the neck over a table, I just wonder how sympathetic they would be.
I have a brand new manual and it mentions it. Read the new one on the web site if you have to. It's in there.
Just a guess, but I have a feeling if JH reads this he'll agree with me. It's a method common all truss rod systems extant today. Don't make it sound like surgery! It doesn't actually have to happen on a table by the way, you can hold the bass between your legs, but having a buddy or a clamp keep it on a flat plane like a table is a more precise method.
You're supposed to adjust the neck as flat as possible, right? I've read that they're not supposed to have any relief in the neck. Right now, mine has enough space to push probably 2 1/2 credit cards through between the 8th fret and the bottom of the string with both ends pressed down.
EagleMoon wrote:You're supposed to adjust the neck as flat as possible, right? I've read that they're not supposed to have any relief in the neck. Right now, mine has enough space to push probably 2 1/2 credit cards through between the 8th fret and the bottom of the string with both ends pressed down.
Pat, that is excessive - if it has acclimated to your place for a few days and is still like that, then adjust the rods. I have my necks flat or with a tad relief. Depends how low you want the action and how much fret noise added to your tone. Feeling nasty? Add a little fret growl!
I gave both rods about a 1/4 turn and tuned it back up. I've been letting it sit for a few hours. Is there an easy way to tell how much you've turned each rod? I thought about putting a magic marker spot on it so I could see it turn, but I wasn't sure if there was an easier way.
Btw, I got a Kobalt driver from Lowes and it worked fine. $4.
This one? http://images.lowes.com/product/076812/076812067555.jpg A longer handle makes it easier to adjust and won't mar the headstock. As long as it goes over the nut easy it is thin-walled enough - you don't want to bend a rod putting the tool on. As to knowing how much you turned, I just watch the truss nut or my hand - 2 facets are a 1/4 turn.
Adjust the truss rods at pitch!! Don't tune down... it'll totally change the tension on the truss rods when you make the adjustment.
If you have a lot of relief I would recommend 1 manual adjustment to get it in the right range without a lot of heavy lifting by the truss rods, then you can just use them "the normal way" to keep it there.
cassius987 wrote:Adjust the truss rods at pitch!! Don't tune down... it'll totally change the tension on the truss rods when you make the adjustment.
If you have a lot of relief I would recommend 1 manual adjustment to get it in the right range without a lot of heavy lifting by the truss rods, then you can just use them "the normal way" to keep it there.
Don't loosen the strings when you adjust the neck? I've always done that. I was always told to loosen the strings so that the neck didn't have to work so hard to straighten out.
So how would you know if you had to adjust one of the truss rods and not the other?
