340 / 350 / 370 - Differences?

[nkjanssen]

Sorry if this has been asked before. I'm new. I did use the search function and didn't come up with much detail.

I've read the spec's. From what I can tell, cosmetic differences aside, the 340 and 370 appear to be very similar, with the 350 having a smaller (closed) body and different pickups. I don't have the opportunity to try these out head-to-head where I live, so I was hoping someone could explain to me the qualitative differences between the three. I love the look of all of them. What I can't tell from spec's or pictures, though, are how they feel and sound as compared to each other.

Anyone care to offer an opinion?

[scoobster28]

I can answer only a little to your question because, even if I were to make general statements based on each model "class," the fact remains that each Ric is unique and you should test several to see which you prefer. And, even better would be to test multiple guitars that are the same model number. Sound: in my opinion, 340s and 370s sound similar, and very close to 350s. This is assuming that you have the same style of pickups (toasters, higains, etc) on each. I won't address appearance because that is extremely subjective and only you know which you prefer. Now is my review based on "feel":

340: The body is the largest of the group and has sharp edges (90 degree) on the front. However, they are not uncomfortable and the larger body, combined with the classic shaped body, might feel better to someone of a larger girth. I have heard it said that those with smaller frames, and also females, sometimes find the body size too large to be comfortable. I think that this body style is pretty well balanced when standing, and playing when sitting is okay.

350: Smaller body, which might be good for the reasons noted above. I love the 325, but my somewhat larger frame doesn't hide well behind the body and so I prefer the 330/360 series over the 325/350 series. Still, they are comfortable to play standing. I had a little bit of trouble playing it while sitting, but it wasn't like playing some guitars that shaped so crazy that it is impossible. Because the body is smaller, I had to lift my knee up higher to put the strings at the same playing height when sitting as I would for a 330 style guitar. Not a problem, but something to consider. I think that the 350s are well balanced too, but my own personal taste thinks that the neck seems too long for the size of the body. That is because I love the 325 taken as a whole.

370: Great guitar, the rounded edges are extremely comfortable and show off finishes well as the light bounces off of the front contours. I found them comfortable to play standing, but sitting a little bit less only because I like to rest my arm sometimes on the top of the guitar and it would sometimes slide off of the contoured edges! This didn't happen much with 330 style guitars (nor did it with 325/350 guitars, which seemed too low anyways as mentioned above).

Note that, when it comes to strumming, all three-pickup model Rickenbackers will feel differently from two-pickup ones because your pick may/probably will hit the middle pickup. Repeatedly. Your playing style will end up changing as a result, or you might disconnect that pickup to reduce the noise from it (maybe Lennon did it intentionally because of this, maybe the connection just died).

Summary: Each model is unique, feels different based on body shape alone, and when your body physique is taken into consideration, and there is no substitute for trying them personally. If I had the money to pick one, I would get a 360 because I like how the light hits it... it impresses people more. I love 325s and if I were playing alone at home would get a 350, but if I ever thought I would play in public I would either get a larger body 330/360 or just buy a 325 and look really big compared to it. I currently have a 330 LS conversion in the works and I cannot wait for it, but before then I had a 360-shaped guitar and I loved it. And, someday I might get a 325 to do up either like Lennon's or Fogerty's.

Recommendation: Buy one of each!

[nkjanssen]

Thanks for the excellent rundown. I'm contemplating buying my first Rickenbacker, and unfortunately don't have any opportunity to try them where I live. Actually trying before buying would definitely be preferable, but I often take the approach of buying guitars that I know I can resell and recover most of my money on if they don't work out. That's worked out pretty well for me so far. Now for a very newbie question...

Can you describe (or point me to recorded examples) of the differences between toasters and hi-gains?

[deaconblues]

I'll have to learn to embed videos one of these days...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Cs1NGcS ... re=related

[jps]

[nkjanssen]

Hmm...

From that and a few other YouTube clips, I'd say...

toasters = a nice even tone; the most high end and jangle of the three
high gains = a nice mid-rangey tone; still capable of some jangle, but a littly honkier than the toasters
humbuckers = fairly thick sounding

From those clips, I think I prefer the toasters, with the high gains in a close second and the humbuckers in last. I suspect a couple of YouTube clips doesn't come anywhere near telling the whole story, but am I on the right track here?

[nkjanssen]

Wait a minute, I've been doing some more reading and now I'm getting confused. I see references to higain toasters. I thought higains and toasters were different things. And where do "scatterwounds" come in? Can anyone point me to a good rundown of Rickenbacker pickups?

[jdogric12]

Quick and dirty super simplified rundown:

They used toasters in the 60's. They're bright and shimmery.

Hi gains came along around 1970-present. They have a stronger output, but less shimmery sparkly highs.

When they started doing reissues in the 80's, they made toasters that were similar to hi gains in output, but similar to old toasters in looks.

In 1999, they changed the toaster output to sound bright and shimmery like 60's toasters (as opposed to matching current higains). These, still in use on RIC reissues today, are commonly called "scatterwound."

I have a recording of myself playing a Bach tune on a 360/12v64, a 360/12, and a 370/12SPC. I'll try to dig that up for you tonight and post it again.

[nkjanssen]

Thanks. I think I'm finally figuring out the pickup thing.

From what I can tell, it's not possible to get scatterwound toasters on a current regular-production 300-series Ric. Is that right? It seems only the pricier vintage series have them. As I mentioned, I'm looking for my first Ric, and so am leaning towards one of the more basic models (330 or 340). But I do like those scatterwounds. I suppose if I'm going to replace the hi-gains anyway, I'd be better off just bumping my budget up and getting a 350 instead. Hmmm, decisions, decision....

[deaconblues]

It is possible to find toaster pickups both on the forum and occasionally on Rickenbacker's website. Although factory-installed toasters have been temporarily discontinued, some stores will get 330VPs and the like in stock from time to time.

I would recommend a 330 or 340 with Hi-Gains - you can always find some toaster pickups and get them installed. You may even find yourself preferring the Hi-Gain sound - they're a lot more versatile than toasters, IMO.

[scotty]

+1 to what Dan says.You simply cant go wrong with a 330/340.

[jps]

But I do like those scatterwounds. I suppose if I'm going to replace the hi-gains anyway, I'd be better off just bumping my budget up and getting a 350 instead. Hmmm, decisions, decision....

Look here then and scan down to the bottom!

[nkjanssen]

So, can anyone give me a rundown of the general differences in sound between the 330 and 340 in the various switch positions of each, assuming standard wiring?

And, how big a problem is hitting that middle pickup in the 340 with your pick? Is that pretty much a universal issue? Or does it really depend on the player?

[deaconblues]

I personally never hit middle pickups when I'm playing...I guess it's an issue with playing style.

The 340 is going to be more bass-heavy in the middle and up switch positions because the bass and middle pickups are wired together and are switched like one pickup.

On my 330 I use the treble pickup most often for that classic 'jangle' and sometimes use the middle setting for a more subdued rhythm sound. I almost never use the neck pickup as I find it too muddy-sounding to cut through the mix of other instruments.

[6bender]

I agree with with Dan in that the middle pickup is pretty much a non-issue from a playing standpoint. Of course I've played Strats for years so I guess I'm used to having a third pickup. I would think it's something one could get used to if they desire. Tone-wise with the standard wiring (I have a 370) I think the sound of all three pickups (middle switch position) is quite nice. The bridge/middle is sweet also, sort of a quasi-Strat in-betweeny sound. I have some videos on youtube (6bender) where you can hear the the all-three and bridge/middle tones. Please excuse my blues playing