Putting the 4002 though its’ paces.
Moderators: rickenbrother, ajish4
-
cassius987
- Senior Member
- Posts: 4723
- Joined: Mon Aug 04, 2008 2:11 pm
Re: Putting the 4002 though its’ paces.
I played iiipopes' 4002 for the third or fourth time yesterday. This time he was working on someone else's bass so I had it to myself for 10-15 minutes uninterrupted. I have to say, the tone knobs on it have a much bigger impact than on my 4003. 0 is really distinct from 10 is really distinct from 3, 5, and 7. What a great bass, and so easy to play. The neck on it is thicker than anything else I've touched RIC-wise but that actually made me like it better.
Also, it's the only RIC bass I've played where I could instantly dial in a good R&B tone without much effort. Not that the others can't too... but the 4002 just made it way too easy.
Also, it's the only RIC bass I've played where I could instantly dial in a good R&B tone without much effort. Not that the others can't too... but the 4002 just made it way too easy.
-
rickaddict
- Senior Member
- Posts: 6163
- Joined: Mon Mar 29, 2004 7:46 am
Re: Putting the 4002 though its’ paces.
What strings does your buddy have on it? I have some round core DR nickel rounds on mine and I'm not diggin' 'em so much!cassius987 wrote:I played iiipopes' 4002 for the third or fourth time yesterday. This time he was working on someone else's bass so I had it to myself for 10-15 minutes uninterrupted. I have to say, the tone knobs on it have a much bigger impact than on my 4003. 0 is really distinct from 10 is really distinct from 3, 5, and 7. What a great bass, and so easy to play. The neck on it is thicker than anything else I've touched RIC-wise but that actually made me like it better.
Also, it's the only RIC bass I've played where I could instantly dial in a good R&B tone without much effort. Not that the others can't too... but the 4002 just made it way too easy.
-
cassius987
- Senior Member
- Posts: 4723
- Joined: Mon Aug 04, 2008 2:11 pm
Re: Putting the 4002 though its’ paces.
GHS Progressives. Iron-nickel blend according to Scott.
Re: Putting the 4002 though its’ paces.
There's no need to fear...Underdog is Here!
I use GHS Progressives 45-60-80-105 on my 4002 that I purchase as singles from juststrings.com. I have literally tried dozens of different strings on it, and these give the broadest tone and the most versatility, along with a long life. With a tad more iron in the wrap alloy, they not only have a stronger signal, but match my body chemistry better. My sweat eats nickel, so conventional nickel plated rounds die prematurely on me and stainless, whether round or flat, go clanky on me.
I'm not playing like I used to, but when I did, my 4002, also in Walnut, was my main #1 gig bass with no backup for years.
One item about the Progressives: the 105 is taper wound, and it starts to taper on the saddle. This increases overtones, but you may have to readjust the bridge height on the E side. Mine seems to have a really rounded crown radius to the fingerboard, so I don't notice any problem with higher action on either the A or D strings. And now that you can get individual saddles from RIC, if it's a problem, just order a new unnotched saddle and fit accordingly.
I can do anything on that bass. I find it very versatile. To those who aren't familiar with RIC, I do confess that when asked about what it sounds like, I say "J -- with ATTITUDE!"
There is one niggle I don't like that took me years to figure out. I thought it should have more low end. As I wouldn't "pop the hood," so to speak, I didn't know until RIC posted the schematic that stock wiring there are two .01 caps in the circuit, one in line to each pickup, like the .0047 on a 4001/3. So, finally, when RIC made their push-pulls available, I got one for it so I could selectively bypass it. After I did and cranked it -- cajones -- thunder -- crack foundations -- rattle fillings loose -- who needs a bass drum -- then back off the volume and tone to be smooth, subtle, velvety. I'm thinking about doing it to the bridge pickup as well, not to bypass it, but to have my choice of the stock .01 and the 4001/3 .0047.
A couple more observations: my neck pickup, as we know, does not have the "lo-Z" interleaved windings, so the conventional hot lead to ground measures @ 1.5 kohm's worth more wire on it. As as we all know, but I'm going to post for others reading this thread, the coils are split, or end-to-end, with each coil picking up two strings. I think that really contributes to the overall tone to get clarity as well as breadth.
A question I have not been able to figure out: on the lo-Z side, polarity wise, which wire, blue or green, corresponds to which wire on the high-Z side to keep polarity straight and not run into phasing issues when running both? For example, if red is the "hot" lead, which of the two wires, blue or green, would be considered the "hot" lead in conventional pickup terms, if it weren't for being wired to the balanced lo-Z jack?
And, about fifteen years ago, when I thought a pickup had died (it didn't - a wire just came loose from the jack), I ordered one directly from RIC, So I also have a NOS 4002 bridge pickup, quietly hibernating in a cool, dark, dry place, waiting for the right installation.
One last thing: we all get called to, well, "straightforward" gigs -- country bands, church, jam groups, etc. On a good parametric, boost the center frequency at 1.5 kHz @ 3 to 5 db with about an octave and a half or so bandwidth and you'll emulate P all night long to play those I-V lines, but with much, much more character.
I really, really wish RIC would reissue the 4002. It is just so, well, great!
I use GHS Progressives 45-60-80-105 on my 4002 that I purchase as singles from juststrings.com. I have literally tried dozens of different strings on it, and these give the broadest tone and the most versatility, along with a long life. With a tad more iron in the wrap alloy, they not only have a stronger signal, but match my body chemistry better. My sweat eats nickel, so conventional nickel plated rounds die prematurely on me and stainless, whether round or flat, go clanky on me.
I'm not playing like I used to, but when I did, my 4002, also in Walnut, was my main #1 gig bass with no backup for years.
One item about the Progressives: the 105 is taper wound, and it starts to taper on the saddle. This increases overtones, but you may have to readjust the bridge height on the E side. Mine seems to have a really rounded crown radius to the fingerboard, so I don't notice any problem with higher action on either the A or D strings. And now that you can get individual saddles from RIC, if it's a problem, just order a new unnotched saddle and fit accordingly.
I can do anything on that bass. I find it very versatile. To those who aren't familiar with RIC, I do confess that when asked about what it sounds like, I say "J -- with ATTITUDE!"
There is one niggle I don't like that took me years to figure out. I thought it should have more low end. As I wouldn't "pop the hood," so to speak, I didn't know until RIC posted the schematic that stock wiring there are two .01 caps in the circuit, one in line to each pickup, like the .0047 on a 4001/3. So, finally, when RIC made their push-pulls available, I got one for it so I could selectively bypass it. After I did and cranked it -- cajones -- thunder -- crack foundations -- rattle fillings loose -- who needs a bass drum -- then back off the volume and tone to be smooth, subtle, velvety. I'm thinking about doing it to the bridge pickup as well, not to bypass it, but to have my choice of the stock .01 and the 4001/3 .0047.
A couple more observations: my neck pickup, as we know, does not have the "lo-Z" interleaved windings, so the conventional hot lead to ground measures @ 1.5 kohm's worth more wire on it. As as we all know, but I'm going to post for others reading this thread, the coils are split, or end-to-end, with each coil picking up two strings. I think that really contributes to the overall tone to get clarity as well as breadth.
A question I have not been able to figure out: on the lo-Z side, polarity wise, which wire, blue or green, corresponds to which wire on the high-Z side to keep polarity straight and not run into phasing issues when running both? For example, if red is the "hot" lead, which of the two wires, blue or green, would be considered the "hot" lead in conventional pickup terms, if it weren't for being wired to the balanced lo-Z jack?
And, about fifteen years ago, when I thought a pickup had died (it didn't - a wire just came loose from the jack), I ordered one directly from RIC, So I also have a NOS 4002 bridge pickup, quietly hibernating in a cool, dark, dry place, waiting for the right installation.
One last thing: we all get called to, well, "straightforward" gigs -- country bands, church, jam groups, etc. On a good parametric, boost the center frequency at 1.5 kHz @ 3 to 5 db with about an octave and a half or so bandwidth and you'll emulate P all night long to play those I-V lines, but with much, much more character.
I really, really wish RIC would reissue the 4002. It is just so, well, great!
-
jingle_jangle
- RRF Moderator
- Posts: 22679
- Joined: Wed Dec 22, 2004 6:00 am
- Contact:
Re: Putting the 4002 though its’ paces.
Good to see you here, Scott. Your experiences, tips and perspective are very welcome!
-
cassius987
- Senior Member
- Posts: 4723
- Joined: Mon Aug 04, 2008 2:11 pm
Re: Putting the 4002 though its’ paces.
+1!!!iiipopes wrote:I really, really wish RIC would reissue the 4002. It is just so, well, great!
Scott, glad to see you posting here and spreading even more of your wisdom.
