Anatomy Of A Rickenbacker Bass Part 3

[rickfan60]

Sure, if you are interested. Actually, I was thinking of sending you all of the source documents and photos from the series if you would like them. I am a poor writer at best but I have to sharpen my skills. As it turns out, I am trying for a new job that would require me to write a fair amount of technical documentation. Tech guys are not usually known for tremendous documentation skills. We leave that to the tech writers - an entirely different breed of geek.

[FretlessOnly]

Excellent stuff Ted, I've been enjoying reading your postings.

One small note on the use of tape on the truss rods, I've just spotted by sheer coincidence that JH mentions the tape in a thread on the Ric site (link below) and that they no longer use tape but rather heatshrink tubing:

"If you have rods with tape on them, hope that it doesn't snag and remain in the truss rod slots. This is a mess and requires great care and a special technique to take care of. That's one reason we switched to heat shrink tubing. "

http://www.rickenbacker.com/forum_view_ ... ing%20Nuts

Regards,
Steve.

This was in response to my questions about truss rod buzz in my 2008 4003FL. To say the least, it was not encouraging for me to read the words "hope" and "mess" in his response. I have yet to remove the rods (I couldn't get them to budge, but the trick of threading the adjustment nut a bit and using the nut driver to push the rod into the body end sounds good), but now I'm worried about having the tape get stuck in the channel and having a "mess" on my hands. I've already bought the 3/16" heat shrink tubing, but I'm not sure how best to proceed.

BTW, great stuff, Ted.

[rickfan60]

More than likely they will come out cleanly. Inspect the tape for missing sections. If any stayed behind, something like this http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... efid=store might work to get it out. Brushes like this come in several sizes. I would also try a section of soft tube stock - brass or copper that is about the same diameter or smaller as the truss rod. The open end would make a nice scraping tool. In a pinch, a section of metal coat hanger could do it too.

[johnallg]

When I had tape left behind, I believe I cleaned the rod of remaining tape and used it to push out the tape remnants. Worked for me. I would think an old E string with the curly end cut off would chase the channel also.

[FretlessOnly]

Thanks for your replies. If I could ask one more question; one that I could not get an answer to "elsewhere:"

Is the truss rod buzz merely an aesthetic issue, or a sign that the set-up is bad and something could get worse?

The buzz does not transfer through my rig, but it does mess with my mind in terms of how things sound. Translates to fingers, attitude, etc. You know the drill.

I also have the dreaded dead-spot on 10th "fret" c on the D string, and I've heard that the heat shrink tubing cures a multitude of sins (although I suspect that dahomey's removal of the dead spot was because he re-tightened the rods to a sweet spot).

[cassius987]

Personally I think truss rod buzz is a fault to be corrected, not something you should have to live with. If it hinders your bass in any circumstance it's a problem. But I don't know what you mean by it doesn't transfer to your rig. If it affects your playing unplugged it will also affect your playing plugged in unless you play around it by avoiding long notes or note fingering that position.

Tightening your rods CAN fix things like this but I do suspect heat shrink helps prevent a lot of out-of-phase interference from the rods. My 2009 is the sustainiest bass I've ever played.

[FretlessOnly]

Personally I think truss rod buzz is a fault to be corrected, not something you should have to live with. If it hinders your bass in any circumstance it's a problem. But I don't know what you mean by it doesn't transfer to your rig. If it affects your playing unplugged it will also affect your playing plugged in unless you play around it by avoiding long notes or note fingering that position.

Tightening your rods CAN fix things like this but I do suspect heat shrink helps prevent a lot of out-of-phase interference from the rods. My 2009 is the sustainiest bass I've ever played.

Hey cassius! So, we continue this on another forum . Indeed, the truss rod buzzes are quite apparent when playing unplugged, but they do not come through my amplified sound one bit. Having worked on my own basses for over 20 years, I'm stumped. So, you might wonder why I'm worried about something that does not come through my amped sound; it's all in the mental aspect. There's something not quite right, you know?

This weekend I will try to pull it apart again and push the rods into the pickup cavity and remove those bad boys.

I've tweaked the rods in both directions, and separately to see about both buzz and the dead-spot, but to no avail. My last concern is that they are "frozen" in there for some reason.

[rickfan60]

I would definitely fix it. If it is getting into your head it will only distract you. There is a psychological edge when you know your instrument is at its best. The repair work is not difficult. Just go slowly and think through each step before your do it. You can always ask here if you need help.

[johnallg]

The reason the rod rattles is because it is loose in the channel. Snug the nut enough to make tension, but if the neck began where you wanted it, don't tighten any more. That should stop the rattle.

[rickfan60]

That is entirely possible. Without seeing it I am just guessing.

[johnallg]

Hey Ted, here's a question for ya - I have 2 basses that have tension on the E side of the rods, but the G side are loose and the necks are dead flat. Usual, uncommon, weird?

[rickfan60]

Hey Ted, here's a question for ya - I have 2 basses that have tension on the E side of the rods, but the G side are loose and the necks are dead flat. Usual, uncommon, weird?

Some necks just don't need much help. I have seen a few with little or no tension go from season to season without any adjustment at all. How many turns past finger tight are the E side rods?

[johnallg]

Maybe 3/4, maybe even 1. Not much. Not worried about twists, just noticed this and I believe it is due to inherently straight necks and the higher tension on the E and A strings.

[rickfan60]

You have two good ones there. On a well-made string set the tension should be pretty equal across the strings.

[johnallg]

You have two good ones there. On a well-made string set the tension should be pretty equal across the strings.

Ahhh, so that's it! I can't afford well-made strings!!