This is a late 60's Ric. There's a tad more neck relief on the bass side (about .007”) than the treble side which is almost straight. When the treble side truss rod is completely loosened, the relief on that side doesn't change. Tightening the bass side rod takes some of the relief out but it also takes a little relief out on the treble side.
I’m using the procedure to adjust the neck that's in the online RIC manual. Using a 1/4" long handle nut driver socket. (pre 1984 Ric). Also, I noticed when the truss rod nuts were completely loose, the entire truss rod assembly was free to be pulled out a little bit toward the headstock. Is this normal?
I've included a photo of the fretboard at the nut. Does it look like the truss rod is causing the fretboard to separate? If so, what can be done about it? Or is it ok as it is?
Is this a problem?
Moderator: jingle_jangle
Re: Is this a problem?
Here are some more photos, the first photo looks like an old crack repair?, the second photo, I can't tell if it's just a hairline finish crack or something more serious. There's no movement of the wood here. The third photo is at the second fret. Maybe a fret ding? Theres no movement of the wood around any of these cracks. Having said that, is this not a big deal or something more serious?
- jingle_jangle
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Re: Is this a problem?
The neck cracks are from too vigorous a truss-rod adjustment--the fretboard is separating or has separated from the neck (if it's already been repaired and there is no wood movement, then fine).
The third photo looks like a fingernail dig that pulled up a sliver of fretboard. If the guitar was refretted and the frets not carefully pulled, this could also be the cause.
The third photo looks like a fingernail dig that pulled up a sliver of fretboard. If the guitar was refretted and the frets not carefully pulled, this could also be the cause.
Re: Is this a problem?
There haven't been any repairs that I know of. That's what I wanted to find out about. Does it need a repair? What would be involved? There are some issues with the truss rod as I have noted. Would new truss rods restore equal amounts of relief to both sides of the neck?
- jingle_jangle
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Re: Is this a problem?
Ed, then you'll need to have the truss rods removed and checked out, and the fretboard reglued.
The truss rods should pull out of the headstock end with a little force. You can then reglue the fretboard yourself...I recommend superglue for this over any water-soluble glue, but you have to be careful. Open slightly, apply glue (gap-filler is best), clamp using padding and a couple of cauls curved to match the neck and fretboard, leave overnight. Work clean. The rods should each have about 1" of arc in them, with the middle being the high point when you re-insert them after gluing the neck. This will preload the neck. You can restring and adjust tension at this point, a bit at a time, waiting a day or so between tweaks until it reaches equilibrium. Rick necks should have no relief--the bridge provides clearance for fretting.
The truss rods should pull out of the headstock end with a little force. You can then reglue the fretboard yourself...I recommend superglue for this over any water-soluble glue, but you have to be careful. Open slightly, apply glue (gap-filler is best), clamp using padding and a couple of cauls curved to match the neck and fretboard, leave overnight. Work clean. The rods should each have about 1" of arc in them, with the middle being the high point when you re-insert them after gluing the neck. This will preload the neck. You can restring and adjust tension at this point, a bit at a time, waiting a day or so between tweaks until it reaches equilibrium. Rick necks should have no relief--the bridge provides clearance for fretting.
Re: Is this a problem?
And Ed, the rods DO NOT move the neck. You have to move the neck where you want it and hold it there, then tighten the rods to hold it in place. The do not provide the movement. The cracks and separation is/was caused by trying to make this style rod move the neck and not just hold it.
