The bridge thread.....let's be nice and civil....

[kssound]

Speaking of pictures, how about a few of your TRC (as well as the rest of the bass?

I'm planning to post pics and get it registered this afternoon.

[jaymi]

Speaking of pictures, how about a few of your TRC (as well as the rest of the bass?

I'm planning to post pics and get it registered this afternoon.

looking forward to seeing your basses!

[rickaddict]

I am glad you all found that info useful. The post was intended to address the concerns many Rick owners have about lift and I am glad it was taken that way and did not turn into a brawl. Though there is a strange break in the thread between 12:19 and 12:24 when people started discussing the weather for some reason. I guess I missed something there.

Woody and I were just trying to "be nice and civil" in compliance with the thread title's instructions!

[jaymi]

I am glad you all found that info useful. The post was intended to address the concerns many Rick owners have about lift and I am glad it was taken that way and did not turn into a brawl. Though there is a strange break in the thread between 12:19 and 12:24 when people started discussing the weather for some reason. I guess I missed something there.

Woody and I were just trying to "be nice and civil" in compliance with the thread title's instructions!

yeah, we can't cause controversy or anything!!!!

[johnallg]

Ted, very thorough and well-stated post. I have a few observations I'd like to voice.

On my 4 basses with the tailpiece, all have the rout where the 3 screws go more deeper than needed and shimming is needed. I would say this is the norm, not the exception. The newer basses being CNC routed, I do not understand why this pocket depth cannot be closer to meeting the bottom of the tailpiece.

Given this extra depth, and the fact tightening the 3 screws can pull the tailpiece into the rout and cause lift at both ends of the tailpiece but especially the string anchor end, isn't it interesting the tailpiece can bend from these 3 screws? Wouldn't making the material much thicker along the sides mostly but also the back flat area and the ribs under there make a more stable part?

I do agree that almost every bass with one of these tailpieces on shows some amount of loss of contact, and that it is nothing to worry about. My 2004 had a tad when I got it, and during the first year increased to over double the amount, but shimming with washers stopped the movement and it has been stable since. I know it was exacerbated by the 3 screws pulling down into the rout.

Comments and further thoughts most welcome.

[DanJ]

I caught only one reference in this thread to the aspect of straightening the tailpiece out. My '74 model 4000 presently has an Allparts replacement tailpiece/bridge assembly. It's working fine, but I'd like to put the original assembly back on if possible. Problem is, it has more lift than I am comfortable with.

Adding two more holes to the tailpiece is not an option because it would require cutting two additional holes in the bass, something that I don't want to do. There must be some sort of jig where the tailpiece is fastened down and reverse pressure/tension applied so as to straighten out the lift.

Does such a thing exist, and if so where can I get one or how could I go about building one?

[aceonbass]

There is no such device. Two additional holes are the only fix, and they are drilled, not cut into the bass.

[jingle_jangle]

Dane, didn't Dr. Clauson have a method or device that he was using to straighten out tweaked diecast bridges?

[rickenbrother]

Dane, didn't Dr. Clauson have a method or device that he was using to straighten out tweaked diecast bridges?

Yes, he does have a method that works well.

[aceonbass]

Yes, Gary has a method, but it if you use it on a chrome plated tailpiece (Gary's was black powder coated) you'll have to have the part re-plated since the chrome will have been screwed up during the process...if it wasn't already. Gary's tailpiece also had the benefit of having two screws added to the rear after he was finished.

[johnallg]

Having used Gary's process on a tailpiece (albiet black), I do not see how the process would screw up the chrome. Using pads and felt washers, I do not see the chrome being scratched or even cracked in the process to return it to near flat or flat.

[DanJ]

Okay so Gary has a method. What is it? I'm willing to give it a try, provided it won't cost a mint...

[aceonbass]

Once chrome plating has been bent in one direction, it tends to crack and or peel if bent in the other direction.

[johnallg]

I found this link Gary provided for someone else:

http://www.rickresource.com/phpBB3/view ... ft#p385402

[Tarrbot]

It really depends on how thick each coat is when it was chrome plated.

I can't say for certain since I don't know how thick each coat was on previous chrome pieces I've dealt with in the past but I can say for certain that some chrome does flake when drilled and some chrome doesn't.

Would it work? Hell, I don't know.

That's what you guys/experts have to figure out. I can't even tell you what some of the acronyms you guys toss around are.

Would it chip? I guess that really depends on the plating process. If it chips, replate it, if it doesn't... well...