The bridge thread.....let's be nice and civil....

[jingle_jangle]

I'm confused. Please elaborate...

[kenf]

Glass bedding - it's a method used to stabilize rifle action to stock fit. It usually involves a special epoxy and release compound so the assembly can be taken apart after the bedding is done. It removes all play from the interface.

Here's a typical product:

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ ... LAS%20GEL~

[jingle_jangle]

I was unaware of this product. The process is something we use in building automotive prototypes, when a part (like a spoiler or exterior mirror shell) needs to be fitted to a compound-curved surface. It's called "squeezing", and we use a polyester/styrene compound called, "Tuf".

This is an epoxy with chopped glass strands. There's no doubt in my mind that it would work and provide a perfect contact patch, too. Since it's denser than maple, there should be sonic dividends, as well. Great idea!

[kenf]

I can't be the first one to think of it - could I? If you look at the Brownell's product they mention the ability to add powdered metals to the mix - you could even tune the resonance!

Bedding is tough stuff, too.

[jingle_jangle]

First I've heard of this material--it's sort of garage tech cross-pollination, and always fun and serendipitous when it happens. It could have been done with something like "Tuf", but bedding material seems to be MUCH more durable.

Wish I had time to A/B this. Somebody will, though, eventually, and probably sooner rather than later.

[cjj]

I've actually thought about this too as I've got several glass bedded rifles, just never got around to trying it. The stuff is definitely tough, being able to withstand the shock from thousands of high powered rifle rounds...

[rickaddict]

Has anyone seen these on Ebay? Item number: 200325029390

OMG is that thing ugly! It looks like a Transformer to me. What does it turn into when you fold it?

[rickaddict]

I have four vintage ricks sitting here . All have Hipshots on them except my shadow wich has of course ,has a stock seven screw bridge . and in my opinion , the seven screw kills the sustain and the tone of the bass.

That might be because of the black powder coating on the hardware. I only have one BT 4003 and it's a 7-screw. But compared to my chrome hardware 7-screw tail equipped 4003's, it's noticeably not as bright. I'm not sure why, could be due to some other variable, but I've always suspected the black powder coating vs. the chrome. One of these days, I'll have to do a little experiment and swap tails.

And I have to say that I agree with others here that the notion of a better anchored tailpiece killing sustain and tone is highly illogical.

[rickaddict]

.rick bridges also rock back and forth causing intonation problems.

Re-posted from another thread:

As you string up your Rick bass (those ones that have the cast zinc tail piece, of course) make sure that the bridge piece is tipped all the way forward so that it hits the wall of the mute housing. If you do this then: A) Tightening the strings will hold the bridge in place and keep it from tipping back, B) Once you set your intonation, it's easy to put the bridge back in exactly the same place so that your intonation will be correct for the next set of strings (provided you use similar strings, of course) and, C) The intonation screws on the other side of the bridge will be as high (and accessible) as they can be.

[johnallg]

I have four vintage ricks sitting here . All have Hipshots on them except my shadow wich has of course ,has a stock seven screw bridge . and in my opinion , the seven screw kills the sustain and the tone of the bass.

That might be because of the black powder coating on the hardware. I only have one BT 4003 and it's a 7-screw. But compared to my chrome hardware 7-screw tail equipped 4003's, it's noticeably not as bright. I'm not sure why, could be due to some other variable, but I've always suspected the black powder coating vs. the chrome. One of these days, I'll have to do a little experiment and swap tails.

And I have to say that I agree with others here that the notion of a better anchored tailpiece killing sustain and tone is highly illogical.

Jeff, I noticed this lack of brightness when I added the 2 extra screws to my BT tailpiece on my 4003S. Not a darkness, but just not as bright as a chrome one. Interesting you say the same thing.

[aceonbass]

I'll bet it's not so much a lack in brightness, but an increase in bottom end. I used to feel that Ampeg amps lacked brightness, but it was just that they had so much more bottom end than I was used to.

[johnallg]

I'll bet it's not so much a lack in brightness, but an increase in bottom end. I used to feel that Ampeg amps lacked brightness, but it was just that they had so much more bottom end than I was used to.

Definitely more bottom end. I didn't like the change until I put a magnet shoe 8k bridge pup on with the .0047uF cap in line. Now it is a great sounding bass.

[espidog]

That "Vintage Bridge" thing on eBay is fascinating. It's interesting to know that somebody other than Hipshot has "had a go" at producing an alternative to the 4000 series bridge design. From looking at the large images on the eBay listing, though, one thing's obvious: it still suffers from one of the issues that plague the original - i.e. how on earth is anyone supposed to get a precision screwdriver in there at the correct angle to adjust the intonation of the saddles? Look...

[jingle_jangle]

Well,flexible-shaft screwdrivers do exist, although for them not to use a Phillips-headed screw in that application (so the bit stays put in the screw while turning) is just another example of "trying to do it better" and failing miserably in the execution. It's the details that count.

flex_screwdriver.jpg (8.78 KiB) Viewed 2066 times

[rickaddict]

Well,flexible-shaft screwdrivers do exist, although for them not to use a Phillips-headed screw in that application (so the bit stays put in the screw while turning) is just another example of "trying to do it better" and failing miserably in the execution. It's the details that count.

flex_screwdriver.jpg

Maybe a hex screw would have worked even better.

That "Vintage Bridge" thing on eBay is fascinating. It's interesting to know that somebody other than Hipshot has "had a go" at producing an alternative to the 4000 series bridge design. From looking at the large images on the eBay listing, though, one thing's obvious: it still suffers from one of the issues that plague the original - i.e. how on earth is anyone supposed to get a precision screwdriver in there at the correct angle to adjust the intonation of the saddles? Look...

I see another problem that wasn't cured with this new design also. Palm muting looks like it would be even more difficult/painful with this tail than a stock RIC tail.

And are the saddles individually height adjustable? It doesn't look like it to me!