A few Qs about a 1980 4003
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Joe_devola
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A few Qs about a 1980 4003
Hi everyone, new member here and new Ric owner. I actually posted this over at the Ric website forum several days ago, but I would like to take advantage of the wealth of knowledge here to.
I recently picked up a 1980 4003 in jet glow and I have a couple of questions that I hope a few seasoned Ric players will be able to answer.
First, the truss rods adjust at the body end of the neck on this one. I put a set of 45-105 fat beams on her last week, and the neck is fairly straight. However, the truss rods are sticking out from the neck quite a bit. I found these photos http://burnsrepair.com/Rickenbacker%20B ... epair.html which depict what the rods should look like, but the ones on my bass stick out a half an inch or so. In other words, the spacers are not under the neck route like the ones in the photos above. It is my understanding that the rods should just slide in and out, and that I should be able to simple slid them into the neck. However, I have taken the truss rod nuts off and these rods will not budge. I am no stranger to guitar repair/setup, and I have tried using a dowel and hammer at the headstock (light blows of course), and I have tried tapping the rods further into the neck from the body end. I tapped, pulled, and prodded as aggressively as I dare, but no movement at all. Since the neck is fairly straight, and the rods appear to be adjusting just fine, should I be concerned about his?
Also, two of the tuner grommets are missing, and one of the tuners has been replaced with a new Ric tuner. Besides ebay, can anyone suggest any place to buy these; I'd prefer to keep the original style tuners if possible.
Thanks all.
I recently picked up a 1980 4003 in jet glow and I have a couple of questions that I hope a few seasoned Ric players will be able to answer.
First, the truss rods adjust at the body end of the neck on this one. I put a set of 45-105 fat beams on her last week, and the neck is fairly straight. However, the truss rods are sticking out from the neck quite a bit. I found these photos http://burnsrepair.com/Rickenbacker%20B ... epair.html which depict what the rods should look like, but the ones on my bass stick out a half an inch or so. In other words, the spacers are not under the neck route like the ones in the photos above. It is my understanding that the rods should just slide in and out, and that I should be able to simple slid them into the neck. However, I have taken the truss rod nuts off and these rods will not budge. I am no stranger to guitar repair/setup, and I have tried using a dowel and hammer at the headstock (light blows of course), and I have tried tapping the rods further into the neck from the body end. I tapped, pulled, and prodded as aggressively as I dare, but no movement at all. Since the neck is fairly straight, and the rods appear to be adjusting just fine, should I be concerned about his?
Also, two of the tuner grommets are missing, and one of the tuners has been replaced with a new Ric tuner. Besides ebay, can anyone suggest any place to buy these; I'd prefer to keep the original style tuners if possible.
Thanks all.
- falconfixer
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Re: A few Qs about a 1980 4003
When i opened mine up to refurbish it - the truss rods stuck out 'too far' from the neck (about an 1/8" gap) to really have 'doing anything'...
BUT the neck is straight as an arrow (i still snugged them up anyway). And it is still straight.
So maybe it is not a problem....
BUT the neck is straight as an arrow (i still snugged them up anyway). And it is still straight.
So maybe it is not a problem....
My Gear:
1982 MapleGlo Now JetGlo 4003
2004 Martin BC-15E Accoustic Electric Bass
2002 Peavey G Bass with Carbon Fiber neck
Peavey 300 Combo practice amp
1982 MapleGlo Now JetGlo 4003
2004 Martin BC-15E Accoustic Electric Bass
2002 Peavey G Bass with Carbon Fiber neck
Peavey 300 Combo practice amp
Re: A few Qs about a 1980 4003
Welcome, James! 
Can you post photos showing the truss rods?
Can you post photos showing the truss rods?
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Joe_devola
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Re: A few Qs about a 1980 4003
Hi guys, thanks for the replies. I'll try to snap a few photos tomorrow, and post them then.
Re: A few Qs about a 1980 4003
I'd be wary of the rods being bound up. Maybe Paul W will chime in with a suggestion or two.
Re: A few Qs about a 1980 4003
I've had several early 80's 4003's and they always stuck out beyond the nuts, some more than a 1/2", the heavier the strings the more they will stick out, they are supposed to stick out so you can start the nuts on the threads after pulling them out and replacing them, it is like a little extra margin. I think that picture in the link has had the ends cut off and rethreaded and the other ends weren't cut. I have no explanation why they won't come out however, maybe they're stuck
I wouldn't worry about it, as long as they work alright you should be all set. Maybe you are being too gentle?
Re: A few Qs about a 1980 4003
Welcome, James!
It might be worth it to cross-post this question in the Vibrola section where our resident luthier experts are sure to see it.
It might be worth it to cross-post this question in the Vibrola section where our resident luthier experts are sure to see it.
It is better, of course, to know useless things than to know nothing. - Seneca
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Joe_devola
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Re: A few Qs about a 1980 4003 (Pic Update)
Bump for pic.
Re: A few Qs about a 1980 4003
I see what you mean. For the rod to properly work the short end you barely see has to meet the aluminum block and then push against it which bows the rods in the channel and pushes on the neck to hold it where you put it. There can be tape or wood chips in the channel that are binding the rods. The rods should, when the nut is loose, be able to be pulled out with the fingers easily. BTW, the rod is a folded in almost half piece of metal where the threaded end is 1/2" (IIRC) longer than the shorter end that pushes on the block. I'd think with the ends showing like that it would be possible the short end might jump over the block.
How hard were you driving the rod with the dowel? It might take a little more force to get the rod moving.
How hard were you driving the rod with the dowel? It might take a little more force to get the rod moving.
Re: A few Qs about a 1980 4003 (Pic Update)
This is a far in as the rods will go? They are supposed to be snug into the two recepticles for the blocks under the fretboard at the end of the neck, I think you may be being too timid. Can you remove them or are they stuck exactly like the picture? With the nuts off them they should easily pull out of the channels.Joe_devola wrote:Bump for pic.
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Joe_devola
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Re: A few Qs about a 1980 4003
I have taken the nuts off the rods, and tried to move them (the rods) from both ends (headstock and neck heal), they won't budge. The neck on this thing is so solid, and it is nearly dead straight with the strings at pitch and the truss rods completely loose, so I only have the truss rod nuts snugged up a bit to keep tension on them anyway. Therefore, I am reluctant to mess with them too much at this point if it's not causing a real structural problem. Thanks again for the comments, guys.
Re: A few Qs about a 1980 4003
The rods should always be fully inserted before any tension is applied. Put the nut back on so it covers the end of the threads. Secure the bass so it won't move and using a hammer and punch tap that rod back in until it seats. You don't DON"T want it to expand in that position. Seriously.
Re: A few Qs about a 1980 4003
Was this neck ever glued to repair a popped fretboard?
- jingle_jangle
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Re: A few Qs about a 1980 4003
Not without seeing a photo.johnallg wrote:I'd be wary of the rods being bound up. Maybe Paul W will chime in with a suggestion or two.
The bass in the referenced article is a transitional (bass-ackwards) truss rod instrument, and the methods used would apply to a small minority of instruments in circulation.
Re: A few Qs about a 1980 4003
Even if they are bound up is not very hard to fix them. It is a lot easier than you might think. If you expand the E side rod in its present location you risk some serious damage.
