Replacing the R-Tailpiece with a Trapeze
Moderator: jingle_jangle
Replacing the R-Tailpiece with a Trapeze
Mark: Do you have any advice on replacing an R-Tailpiece with a Trapeze?
Life, as with music, often requires one to let go of the melody and listen to the rhythm
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Sure ...This is a fairly straight forward procedure.
You will need a drill and a bit (if you use the stock screws that come with the tailpiece use a 3/32" or a #42 bit)
I use a specialty bit called a VIX bit .This is a self centering device that uses a 3/32" bit .When the shaft contacts the metal ,you push the drill and the bit comes thru the center and aligns it so it is always on center.This is a shop /factory must have device.It is a terrific product.
To align the tail piece ,I assume the original was wrong in the first place.ALWAYS .This is not to say anything bad about any one or company ,but I like to have my repairs top notch.
So this is what you will need to do ....
You will need a drill and a bit (if you use the stock screws that come with the tailpiece use a 3/32" or a #42 bit)
I use a specialty bit called a VIX bit .This is a self centering device that uses a 3/32" bit .When the shaft contacts the metal ,you push the drill and the bit comes thru the center and aligns it so it is always on center.This is a shop /factory must have device.It is a terrific product.
To align the tail piece ,I assume the original was wrong in the first place.ALWAYS .This is not to say anything bad about any one or company ,but I like to have my repairs top notch.
So this is what you will need to do ....
So you too want yours "ALAPWOB"?!?!
I use a metal ruler/straight edge and after removing the pickguards (upper and lower on a Rick)and the pickups,I use a piece of masking tape to find the center of the body .I place a piece of masking tape at the end of the body where the tailpiece will go and I also lay a piece down under the bridge plate.I then mark the plate with a felt marker pen -B on the bass side and T on the treble side.If you have had me work on your Rick ...this will be there.
I lay the ruler down on the edge of BOTH sides of the neck and draw a line on both pieces of tape .This gives me the outside of the neck 'profile'on the body .It allows me to locate/check bridge placement and tailpiece alignment.
I lay the ruler down on the edge of BOTH sides of the neck and draw a line on both pieces of tape .This gives me the outside of the neck 'profile'on the body .It allows me to locate/check bridge placement and tailpiece alignment.
So you too want yours "ALAPWOB"?!?!
I then re-install the pickups and the pickguards.
Then I check the bridge location.To get the saddles in the general center of the bridge chassis and still use the springs (this makes it easier to adjust and gives you the FULL benefit of the unit) ,you take the measurement of the edge of the nut to the center of the 12th fret ,double that and add 1/16" to the treble side .On the bass you take the nut to the center of the 12th fret and add 5/32".Thi is where (if this was an acoustic) where the saddle would go to get correct intonation .Then it could be carved to dial it in .
Generally the Rick bridges are not 'compensated in length and the saddles end up jammed against the chassis frame.If the bridge needs to be moved ,I do this at this time .
Then I check the bridge location.To get the saddles in the general center of the bridge chassis and still use the springs (this makes it easier to adjust and gives you the FULL benefit of the unit) ,you take the measurement of the edge of the nut to the center of the 12th fret ,double that and add 1/16" to the treble side .On the bass you take the nut to the center of the 12th fret and add 5/32".Thi is where (if this was an acoustic) where the saddle would go to get correct intonation .Then it could be carved to dial it in .
Generally the Rick bridges are not 'compensated in length and the saddles end up jammed against the chassis frame.If the bridge needs to be moved ,I do this at this time .
So you too want yours "ALAPWOB"?!?!
Now to the end piece that gets screwed to the butt of the body.
If the alignment is off,I drill the hole out to eat the threads cut into the maple and fill the hole with a maple dowel.Use the correct size ...don't try to cram in a hand full of tooth picks.It won't work ....trust me .
I use round tooth picks to fill the original holes from the 'R' tailpiece .Then locate the 'Hook' section ,center it and draw out the holes.Thenlaod the VIX bit into my drill and drill away . (For thos eof you without this bit ,draw out the holes and very carefully use an awl or an icepick or sharp pointed stick to start the hole.
Then drill it .
Now screw the tailpice /hooked bracket to the end of the body.Now the fun part .If the strap button was not on center (and it could be ) you need to drill and tap to replace the button.Wait till the glue is dry ..........don't jump ahead .Be patient.
dum de dum de dum de dum de dum .
okay that was long enough .
If the alignment is off,I drill the hole out to eat the threads cut into the maple and fill the hole with a maple dowel.Use the correct size ...don't try to cram in a hand full of tooth picks.It won't work ....trust me .
I use round tooth picks to fill the original holes from the 'R' tailpiece .Then locate the 'Hook' section ,center it and draw out the holes.Thenlaod the VIX bit into my drill and drill away . (For thos eof you without this bit ,draw out the holes and very carefully use an awl or an icepick or sharp pointed stick to start the hole.
Then drill it .
Now screw the tailpice /hooked bracket to the end of the body.Now the fun part .If the strap button was not on center (and it could be ) you need to drill and tap to replace the button.Wait till the glue is dry ..........don't jump ahead .Be patient.
dum de dum de dum de dum de dum .
okay that was long enough .
So you too want yours "ALAPWOB"?!?!
Now you need the tap ....It is a size 10/24 and the bit you need is a #25 or a 9/64" either will work .
You must drill the hole first ,get it on center ,again use your sharp pointy thing to start the hole .
Lay the guitar down on it's back and have someone tell you if you are level or not with the table .You'd be surprised how easy it is to not be level .( although I am being totally level with all of you at this time )
Drill the hole .
You should use a forward /reversable drill for this job.
Load the tap in the drill .I wax the cutter for this task.It helps to not break the tap .
The hole MUST be deeThan the threads will be .You don't want to bottom out the tap -it will snap off.
Drill slow and don't bottom out the cutter area.Stop short of the end of the thread cutter area.Without jiggling,flip the switch and back out the tap.
This is one of the scariest things to do on a guitar.It is very easy to snap the tap.
Thats it ,restring and play
You must drill the hole first ,get it on center ,again use your sharp pointy thing to start the hole .
Lay the guitar down on it's back and have someone tell you if you are level or not with the table .You'd be surprised how easy it is to not be level .( although I am being totally level with all of you at this time )
Drill the hole .
You should use a forward /reversable drill for this job.
Load the tap in the drill .I wax the cutter for this task.It helps to not break the tap .
The hole MUST be deeThan the threads will be .You don't want to bottom out the tap -it will snap off.
Drill slow and don't bottom out the cutter area.Stop short of the end of the thread cutter area.Without jiggling,flip the switch and back out the tap.
This is one of the scariest things to do on a guitar.It is very easy to snap the tap.
Thats it ,restring and play
So you too want yours "ALAPWOB"?!?!
Obviously, this was "Tailpiece installation for Dummies"[like those books out there on Everything].Personal choice here, but I have Never put the tap into the drill, rather I use a
handheld tap holder,which you can more easily control the rate of how fast the tap goes in.I've never busted a tap off in wood, though you Could do it, I'm sure.As Mark says, just take your time.
Shameless plug here, but anyone thinking of doing this to a 12 string might want to contact me about a 12 hole top section as an alternative
to the original 6 hole section. Then you only need to buy the end hook piece w/ screws.Mark got me going on this idea years ago, and it's a good one.
handheld tap holder,which you can more easily control the rate of how fast the tap goes in.I've never busted a tap off in wood, though you Could do it, I'm sure.As Mark says, just take your time.
Shameless plug here, but anyone thinking of doing this to a 12 string might want to contact me about a 12 hole top section as an alternative
to the original 6 hole section. Then you only need to buy the end hook piece w/ screws.Mark got me going on this idea years ago, and it's a good one.