Trc/pickguard on a 1963 360/12

saturn · Post by **saturn** » Tue May 11, 2004 1:12 pm

http://www.rickbeat.com/modelslibrary/360-12-1963/360-12-1963.htm

I'd like to use something similar to that on my ric... but I doubt I can get anything vintage very easily. custom made will work! it would look a lot better than the simple parchment pickguards used on my 360/12, in my opinion.

anyone know how that's done exactly or have personal experience making/ordering pickguards similar to those?

I'd actually prefer white under clear plastic.

I wrote to WDMusic/Pickguards.com, and the guy replied and told me it'd be around 150.00

does that seem reasonable?

BobKat · Post by **BobKat** » Tue May 11, 2004 6:29 pm

That seems expensive. Sorry WD.

I have made several sets of these. They are pretty easy to make. I don't even have a jigsaw and I can still make them. I always used a Dremel tool with a cut-off wheel, sandpaper, and spray paint. Couple of hours max, and you're done.

saturn · Post by **saturn** » Tue May 11, 2004 7:51 pm

that's what I was thinking! I was going to try doing this with a dremel and some paint.

I was going to do this same sort of thing with a les paul but I ended up selling it, so I have some clear plastic lying around.

I plan to buy some other guitar stuff from him anyway so it's all good.

just one other question: what kind of tip did you use to cut the plastic? and did you control the speed of the dremel at all (with a pedal or knob or something)?

saturn · Post by **saturn** » Thu May 13, 2004 3:30 pm

another sort-of related question. when drilling the holes for screws, what kind of drill bit would make that Y shape so that the screw is flush with the pickguard?

milo · Post by **milo** » Thu May 13, 2004 4:41 pm

You need to buy a countersink bit to get that. Sometimes you can get an all-in-one type bit that has the correct drill size and the countersink at the top, or you can buy a "universal" type of countersink bit that looks kind of like a big cone. You would have to practice with that one and mark it to get the correct depth for the screw head that you're using.

BobKat · Post by **BobKat** » Thu May 13, 2004 5:01 pm

I use a single-speed Dremel. You have to be careful. A variable speed would certainly work better and a jigsaw or band saw would be even better, but I don't own those. After the rough cut, I mount the Dremel on the bench and use it to shape the edge, then sandpaper for the final shaping.

You can buy a countersink. You can also use an appropriate sized drill bit and just start to drill a second, larger hole. Works just like the countersink, just take your time.

saturn · Post by **saturn** » Fri May 14, 2004 5:10 am

thanks for the helpful comments. I'll try all that, and let you all know how it turns out!

johnhall · Post by **johnhall** » Fri May 14, 2004 5:42 am

Using a typical drill bit will often crack the plastic or at least stress it such that it will at a later date. Modify the bit first such that it has a much sharper angle, i.e. more of a point. A typical bit has a point angle of 118 degrees; grind it closer to 80 degrees. In fact, the countersink angle is 82 degrees, so if you grind all of your plexi bits to that rough angle, they can also be used to countersink the holes.

It doesn't matter so much with white pickguards but units made from clear to have sprayed backs require particular care. Depending on how the holes and edges are cut has a great deal to do with how they react when painted. Some techniques make the plastic crack almost immediately when the first spray hits them. This can be minimized by flame polishing all the edges or even baking the part just enough to stress relieve the plastic.

BobKat · Post by **BobKat** » Sat May 15, 2004 3:41 am

I forgot to mention that when I use the bit to contersink the hole, I run the reversible drill backwards, to keep the edge of the bit from biting. But I should juts go buy a countersink. Laziness.

saturn · Post by **saturn** » Sun May 16, 2004 7:43 am

any suggestions for paint? I'm going to be using white. will typical spraypaint have problems sticking to the clear plex? (I've never painted the stuff... I've always bought clear to uh, have clear plex!)

I was thinking I should probably sand it, but that might ruin the appearance... again, I've never tried this, so sorry if my questions seem silly.

tblair · Post by **tblair** » Mon May 17, 2004 7:15 am

For the screw holes, you can also just try poking the guard with a soldering iron. No cracks- and once the screws are in, any imperfections are hidden.

saturn · Post by **saturn** » Mon May 17, 2004 2:17 pm

thats a great idea! thanks.

tblair · Post by **tblair** » Tue May 18, 2004 6:44 am

Just don't sniff the fumes.

Also, the combination I've used is Lucite-Tuf backed by Rustoleum gold. Easy to find, and looks very close to the real thing.

saturn · Post by **saturn** » Wed May 19, 2004 1:48 am

I'm using generic clear plex in the same thickness as the normal plastic. I sanded the reverse with 600 grit (just enough so paint sticks?) and am going to shoot it with white primer. I may go over it with clearcoat (on the back) to help the stuff stick, since primer may chip off.

I'm going for a sort of "iPod plastic" look, though the newest iPods are a bad example, because they look a bit different (rounded).

BobKat · Post by **BobKat** » Wed May 19, 2004 5:10 am

I never found the need to sand. As a matter of fact, I am sure that the sanding marks will show. Plexi/Lucite-type material is pretty porous, so the paint should adhere beautifully.

I just made a replacement guard this Saturday. My Dremel tool and drill method worked perfectly, and I finished it in under an hour. It was white, but a clear one is the same premise. And I have never had a problem with cracking the guard during drilling. Just go slow. I personally would not make the holes with a soldering iron. And I drill the holes before I paint.