Wiring harness help

[marc61]

OK, so the kid and I are working on the mods for his Jazzmaster...here's what I'm looking to do, and just need some help.

We both agree the rhythm circuit is unnecessary and confusing. What I'd like to do is create a more conventional set up. I guess what I'm looking to do is remove the rhythm circuit, and put in a whole new harness with stacked v/t, v/t for the pickups. I'm probably going to move the toggle selector to the top front horn of the guitar as it's where Evan prefers it. I'm going to have a new pickguard made anyway, as we're installing humbuckers.

So now, HELP!

Are there any pre-made harnesses out there that will do the trick? I'm guessing the existing harness is of no use, and I'd probably like to keep it whole, with the original pickguard and pickups should we ever want to return the guitar to stock in the future.

Any advice appreciated

[jingle_jangle]

No premades that I'm aware of...especially to accommodate stacked pots. Is there enough depth in the body routs for these?

[marc61]

Not 100%, but I don't think the routing is a problem.

I've never put together my own harness before...I guess what I'll do is, get all the parts, then make my own schematic? I have no idea what type or color etc of wire to use. Ops, capacitors? Di I need those? Maybe i should have a pro do it. Not many up here in Westchester though, that's a problem.

No rush here, I just want to get it right.

[jingle_jangle]

Easier than a schematic if you haven't done this sort of thing before is to do a layout drawing. Draw each part out (circles as pots, switch as switch as it looks in life, pickups as they look, but simplified, etc; whatever's comfortable and non-confusing).

Draw out your wiring hookups...you can copy stuff from the hundreds of online drawings available on pickup sites, etc., and use different colors for the wires so you can draw them across each other without confusing things (again).

Parts values are not a big deal here...humbuckers want 500K audio taper pots (at least to start) for both volume and tone--you can experiment later if you want. You'll want to place a cap to ground on each tone pot. Look at a Les Paul wiring diagram for starters, but you might want to look at a Gretsch Duo Jet or Tennessean, too. The Gibson way of wiring interlacesthe two volume controls which some people find undesirable.

Essentially what you're doing is putting a LP or Duo-Jet harness into a JM body, so you can borrow the cap values from that diagram.

It's a very easy harness to build with beginner's soldering skills and quite rewarding when done. Don't forget to ground the pickup braids to the pot cases, and pot case to pot case to bridge and switch frame or case,to keep things nice and quiet. It doesn't hurt to keep the long runs of wire from pickups to switch up there in the horn, in shielded wire, too.

[jps]

Here is an excellent source for wiring diagrams, Marc.

[marc61]

Thanks for the site Jeff

Paul. I think you're right. This is going to be fun(plus save like $150). I ordered all the parts last night, except the caps(I'm assuming I can get those at Radio Shack). For added amusement, I will post pics while in progress. It'll be a couple of weeks though, as first I have to get the parts, then do a pickguard drawing.

My son wants an anodized metal pickguard. These look like the only people I've found who can do that :http://www.sharp-concepts.com/ . I'm a little concerned about getting the drawing right, but I think if I send an explanation with it, it'll be fine.

Only three things can happen here

1 - I get electrocuted (highly unlikely)
2 - I get second degree burns(possible, if I mishandle the soldering iron)
or
3 - It all comes together, and my son has the guitar that looks, and sounds exactly as he's dreamed about.

[beatlefreak]

2 - I get second degree burns(possible, if I mishandle the soldering iron)

Just be sure to grab the thick end of the iron, and if it falls off the table - DON'T try to catch it in mid-air.

[marc61]

Here's a silly wiring drawing but, it gives an idea of what I'm trying to do.

[jingle_jangle]

That's the most basic of component layout drawings, Mark. But you've got to do one with all wires present. Hint: Even though the pots are stacked, draw them as if they're separate as on a standard Gibson or Rick with 2V/2T pots.

Show all ground wires. Again, referring to the Duncan website,

http://www.seymourduncan.com/support/wi ... h_2v_2t_3w

is the one you want. Wire it up like this, just remember your pots are stacked, though they wire the same.

Have you practiced your soldering? Buy a flat tin of flux to help things along. You can apply this with a toothpick to any surfaces that need cleaning, especially pot cases. Speaking of pot cases, they are the hardest to solder due to the large surface that needs to be heated. For this reason, you won't get a good joint without at least a 50W iron. Soldering guns don't cut it, and tiny and cheap irons won't either. Tin both ends of a connection before joining them. This is where the flux comes in handy. The tip of the iron must be kept clean, or heat transfer won't occur. When the tip is hot, wipe it on a damp sponge, dip it in the flux tin, apply solder so it's bright.

Duncan's are the best-drawn wiring diagrams out there, IMO!

[ajish4]

That's the most basic of component layout drawings, Mark. But you've got to do one with all wires present. Hint: Even though the pots are stacked, draw them as if they're separate as on a standard Gibson or Rick with 2V/2T pots.

Show all ground wires. Again, referring to the Duncan website,

http://www.seymourduncan.com/support/wi ... h_2v_2t_3w

is the one you want. Wire it up like this, just remember your pots are stacked, though they wire the same.

Have you practiced your soldering? Buy a flat tin of flux to help things along. You can apply this with a toothpick to any surfaces that need cleaning, especially pot cases. Speaking of pot cases, they are the hardest to solder due to the large surface that needs to be heated. For this reason, you won't get a good joint without at least a 50W iron. Soldering guns don't cut it, and tiny and cheap irons won't either. Tin both ends of a connection before joining them. This is where the flux comes in handy. The tip of the iron must be kept clean, or heat transfer won't occur. When the tip is hot, wipe it on a damp sponge, dip it in the flux tin, apply solder so it's bright.

Duncan's are the best-drawn wiring diagrams out there, IMO!

I thank you for this Paul,

THAT was the one part I could NEVER get nailed down. I could NEVER get the solder to stick to the pot casing!
I have a 20W Iron, and a 30W....but a while ago, bought one of those Radio Shack Soldering Stations that should do the trick.

A BIG THANK YOU again!

[jingle_jangle]

The soldering stations are really handy. Unfortunately, some are made to look like a pro station, but are lacking in features and longevity.

Do you have one of these stations?

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index ... Id=3132686

They are good on power, but tips are hard to come by. I do have a source, though. But I didn't buy one because the sponge is so tiny!

Mine is a:

http://www.howardelectronics.com/edsyn/951sx.html

Edsyn 951SX. Good old workhorse with excellent ergonomics and product design. Note the size of the sponge! It goes for over a week without drying because the sponge reservoir holds about 6 ounces of water. Tips readily available and great customer support.

Anyway, you've got all of the necessary items. Practice on some old pot cases--they're the hangup, as you say.

[ajish4]

The soldering stations are really handy. Unfortunately, some are made to look like a pro station, but are lacking in features and longevity.

Do you have one of these stations?

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index ... Id=3132686

They are good on power, but tips are hard to come by. I do have a source, though. But I didn't buy one because the sponge is so tiny!

YEP, that's the one Paul!

I did find a place online that sells the tips for this unit. I did some digging and found the company that makes the unit for Radio Shack.

Here it is....I believe the RS unit is the MANDELL AT201D

http://madelltech.com/nozzles-tips.html

I don't do a lot of soldering, so I guess it will do for now. I do, however like the large sponge area and the apparent smaller size of your unit.
The RS unit takes up a lot of space.

Paul, do you suggest a certain TIP for soldering those pot grounds? I've seen some REALLY WIDE tips, but like to work with a very fine tip.

Thanks again!

[marc61]

Yup, that diagram helps a lot. Guess I'm a bit over anxious. What I need to do is get all the parts, compare the wiring to that diagram to see if it makes sense.

Actually, my main concern now, is doing the pickguard drawing. When I get the pickups, I will have to design the guard, making the correct openings for the pickups, and screw holes so they can be mounted properly. Of course there will be no openings for the soon to be non-existant rhythm circuit, and then i just have to make sure there is room to put the pickup toggle where the circuit used to be.

[marc61]

Just looked, my soldering iron is 25w Guess i need an upgrade

[jingle_jangle]

The tip should be a small chisel, 1/8" wide for this type of work.

PC boards and IC work require a smaller, pointed tip. A pointed tip won't transfer enough heat to solder onto a pot case.