Dead string on new 650D

Setup, repair and restoration of Rickenbacker Instruments

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mikester

Dead string on new 650D

Post by mikester »

Hello all,
I just bought a 650D, and, the high E string seems to buzz-then-mute-out. That's the best description I can come up with. I suspect a problem with the nut since fretted notes ring and ring. I'm hoping there's a fix that doesn't involve a luthier. Everything else about this beauty is fantastic. Thanks in advance.

Long time listener - first time caller,
Mike
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eatswodo
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Post by eatswodo »

Take a close look at the nut, and see if you can figure out where the string is actually resting on it. It should be right on the front edge i.e. closest to the first fret. If it's further back than that, you may hear the behaviour you describe. It's not always easy to see this, but if you just grab the first string between the first and second frets and move it gently side to side, you should be able to see where the 'pivot point' is on the nut. Chances are the slot needs deepening just a tad on the tuner side. If you're not comfortable doing that, any reputable repair person should be able to take care of it very easily.

The other thing you could try is to simply replace the string - this doesn't sound like 'bad string' behaviour, but it's worth a try.
adam_swapp
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Post by adam_swapp »

If you get buzz on the open string but not at the first fret, that usually indicates that the nut slot is low. However, before you blame the nut, make sure the neck relief is set properly and that you don't have a high fret.

If you're sure the neck is adjusted properly and the fret is OK, and if you have a nut file or jeweler's saw, you can fix this yourself:
- Put a drop of superglue accelerator in the slot.
- Sprinkle in some baking soda and give it a couple of seconds to absorb the accelerant.
- Add a drop of thin superglue. You should see a 'poof' when it hits.
- Give it a minute to set, then file the slot back out to proper depth.

If you're uncomfortable doing this or don't have the tools, a competent luthier can do this while you wait. And if it's a new guitar, lean on the dealer to make it right.

With all due respect to David's suggestion, I'm not sure that deepening the slot at any point would alleviate the problem. It seems that moving the pivot point would just change the effective length of the string and modify the intonation. If the string buzzes, it's probably because it's too low; moving the pivot point won't raise the string.
You want to put that where?
mikester

Post by mikester »

David,
Thanks for the information. I'll inspect it as you've described. This makes perfect sense to me. She's brand new from the factory, but, I did put new strings on. Although there's a 45 day return policy, I haven't read the fine print. I imagine the cost to make the nut slot deeper would be less than restocking fees, shipping, etc. to send her back.
Thanks again for the tip.

Mike
mikester

Post by mikester »

This is a great resource guys! Thanks to everyone.

Cheers,
Mike
mikester

Post by mikester »

Adam,
Looks like an interesting science project. Is it typical to have to have work done on a brand new guitar? I bought this online from Music123, so, my chance to audition it came after the purchase. If I'd played this at the local music shop, I wouldn't have bought it without them first reviving the dead string. I suppose I'll have to send it back. As much as I hate to do so.

Thanks for the input,
Mike
adam_swapp
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Post by adam_swapp »

Mike,

This really is a simple repair (if that's the problem). You might want to balance the time, expense, and hassle of a return against the expense of getting it fixed locally. I don't know Music123's policy on returns (who pays the shipping?), but if you're footing the bill, it might be cheaper just to eat the cost of the repair. Maybe they'll reimburse you with proof of work (it costs them money to accept a return). Most shops charge about $50 to cut a new nut. Fixing one slot is going to be a lot less than that.

Another thing to consider is that two nominally identical guitars often play differently. If you exchange it for a different one, the replacement might not be as much to your liking.

Before you send it back, take it to a local luthier for an inspection and estimate. If he says $10 and 10 minutes, you're golden. Go home happy and turn it up. Image

Good luck.
You want to put that where?
mikester

Post by mikester »

Thanks fellahs,
I'll see if there's a guitar guy here in the greater Buffalo area. If I strum really lightly it's not so noticable. I was jamming along with Beatle Brunch just moments ago. I really like this guitar, and, you can't beat the price!
I've got an old battle axe (An Elektra SLM) I bought when I was in high school. Because it was cheap, and I barely had the cash to make the lay-away payments. I'm going to do the superglue and baking soda on that one. Can you get "Superglue accelerator" at True Value?

Mike
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admin
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Post by admin »

I would be very careful with the superglue unless you are comfortable with the repair. Even a single drop of this on the fretboard can make quite a mess.
Life, as with music, often requires one to let go of the melody and listen to the rhythm

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mikester

Post by mikester »

I tried something simple. I used the edge of a 6" ruler to press the string into the nut-slot, and, this ceased the buzz. Might this indicate the slot is a bit wide; possibly allowing the string to vibrate against the sides? What is the composition? Nylon? Seems a bit soft for this aplication.

Relax guys. I'm not getting anything neer the Ric. The Elektra has seen waaay better days. She's had mic stands run up and down the frets, been slammed into walls and cabinets, stayed out in the rain, and, been bowled across a cement floor. Dr. Frankenstein would be proud of the many resurections this poor baby has seen.
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