Bridge adjustment - tilting forward?

[johnallg]

Do a search of the forum. You'll find plenty of info on Rickenbacjer setups in here.

And how to set up a Rickenbacker too.

[beatlefreak]

Sometimes I type too quickly for my own good.

[johnallg]

Sometimes I type too quickly for my own good.

All in fun.

[320capt]

I have been mining the forum for a while to get the info I need to start doing this myself, however, I couldn not find anything about the bridge level issue. The info that Kris posted recently in another 620 set up thread I found particularly good.

I bought the wrench to do the truss rod adjustments a while back but I have not had any luck in getting them to move so I went back to out side set ups. So far that is not getting it done either.

My main concern is to not mess up the neck as I work my way though learning how to do this.

[jps]

What do you mean by you can't get the rods to move? Are they maxxed out? In doing a setup the TRs should be the first thing to adjust, then all other adjustments follow that.

[320capt]

What do you mean by you can't get the rods to move?

The rods move fine but after doing a few 1/4 turn adjustments over a period of days (1/4 turn and wait a few days, try again) I am not getting any change in the bow of the neck as measured by sight (looking down the fret board edge from the top of the neck) and checking with a metal ruler layed length wise at the edge of the fret board on top of the frets.

After reading one post on the RRF it appears that I may have been doing the adjustments wrong because I have not been loosening the strings when doing the adjustments.

[jps]

You do not need to loosen the strings to adjust the TRs, but you should apply some backwards pressure to the headstock/neck to "help" the rods and not allow them to do all the work by themselves.

You might want to see whether the acorn nuts at the body end of the neck is sinking into the wood, as that may be the reason the neck is not changing.

[johnallg]

You do not need to loosen the strings to adjust the TRs, but you should apply some backwards pressure to the headstock/neck to "help" the rods and not allow them to do all the work by themselves.

You might want to see whether the acorn nuts at the body end of the neck is sinking into the wood, as that may be the reason the neck is not changing.

+1 - my feeling as well as I read this.

[doctorwho]

You do not need to loosen the strings to adjust the TRs, but you should apply some backwards pressure to the headstock/neck to "help" the rods and not allow them to do all the work by themselves.

You might want to see whether the acorn nuts at the body end of the neck is sinking into the wood, as that may be the reason the neck is not changing.

+1 - my feeling as well as I read this.

+2

I always "help out" the rods when I'm doing the TR adjustment.

[320capt]

More pieces of the puzzle!

This is the first I have read of "helping" the neck adjust - which makes sense.

I asked my tech about the pronounced 660/12 bridge tilt and the answer I got was that with a free floating bridge you tilt forward to achieve the proper contact point of the strings over the saddles. My 660/6 came back with just a hint of tilt, otherwise set up beautiful and low.

I would still like to try this myself for the satisfaction of being able to do it and understand my guitars better.

Your help, insight and patience is appreciated.

[doctorwho]

More pieces of the puzzle!

This is the first I have read of "helping" the neck adjust - which makes sense.

I asked my tech about the pronounced 660/12 bridge tilt and the answer I got was that with a free floating bridge you tilt forward to achieve the proper contact point of the strings over the saddles. My 660/6 came back with just a hint of tilt, otherwise set up beautiful and low.

I would still like to try this myself for the satisfaction of being able to do it and understand my guitars better.

Your help, insight and patience is appreciated.

We are always glad to help out, so when you get ready to give it a try, let is know.