4001 1973 wiring harness

[clabass]

I need your help.

I play a bass rickenbcker 4001 1973.

The electric part is not original.

I wanted an electrical part that was somewhat similar to the original.

What do you recommend me?

Wiring Harness, 4 control, complete prewired - OR -Wiring Harness, 4 control, switchable 4003/4001, 2 volume pots, 1 tone pot, 1 tone push-pull cap .0047, selector switch, complete pre-wired from the factory ?

tanks

[heinpete]

The switchable push pull pot might not fit in the original cavity of the 1973 bass? Make shure you check first!
Does anybody have tried before, is extra routing necessary?

[clabass]

Is it possible to use the wiring harness 4 controls and added a 0:47 uf capacitor?

If this is possible to know how do I add 0:47 Cap

[ajish4]

The switchable push pull pot might not fit in the original cavity of the 1973 bass? Make shure you check first!
Does anybody have tried before, is extra routing necessary?

From what I recall, it doesn't fit, but does need a small amount of routing for the push/pull VTC mod.

My 78 4001 needed that to be done for it to fit.

[cassius987]

If your equipment for hi-gain instruments is nice (a very high impedance input for sure), go ahead and just go with a 4 control setup without a push-pull and wire the 0.0047 μF capacitor in series with the hot lead of the treble pickup (coming from the switch lug to the volume pot). With a good input impedance you can barely hear a difference with the cap in or out so it may as well be in, giving you a more accurate vintage sound (and removing any comb filtering, which is what gives the two-pickup mono sound of modern Rics a tone slightly reminiscent of a Jazz Bass--if you like that, you may not want the high-pass cap at all). For a traditional harness you'll want 250 kΩ volume pots and 500 kΩ tone pots. The ROS jacks may as well come direct from RIC or a dealer as they're the least fun to solder (in my humble opinion).

You can also do 330 kΩ pots all around or just for the volume pots and leave tone pots at 500. This would "brighten" the sound a little by reducing overall signal loading but it would be less true to the original harness, so think about what your biggest priorities are.

If you don't know how to do this yourself there are many people who could do it for you for the cost of parts and shipping; I would be willing to and so would many others I'm sure.

[clabass]

Hi,

"If your equipment for hi-gain instruments is nice (a very high impedance input for sure), go ahead and just go with a 4 control setup without a push-pull and wire the 0.0047 μF capacitor in series with the hot lead of the treble pickup (coming from the switch lug to the volume pot)" .......For a traditional harness you'll want 250 kΩ volume pots and 500 kΩ tone pots. The ROS jacks may as well come direct from RIC or a dealer as they're the least fun to solder (in my humble opinion)".[/b]

The above suggestion would be the best.

I live in Brazil and it is not easy to repair.

I would not venture to make the repair.

Best would be that the electronic comes assembled in the USA. (Wiring harness acredentando 4 controls the 047 uf cap.

Do you suggest where to buy?

On the site rickenbacker product is unavailable.

Can someone post the frack part electric bass 4001 with the original links?

[thisismusicinc]

Hi, I've got the wiring harness pulled from a 78 4001 that I don't need anymore. Sending you a PM

[johnallg]

Claudio, Jon having one from 1978 is your best bet. The current wiring harness uses all 330k pots for both volume and tone. The old way (and to me more classic sound) is to use 250k pots for volume and 500k pots for tone. That is what Jon's harness will have. I've traded parts with him and he's a great guy.

As to the tone 500k pot/switch RIC sells fitting in your 1973. I can tell you it fit without height problems in my 1975 4001.

[thisismusicinc]

Thanks, John.
The wiring is from the same bass as the bridge you got.

[johnallg]

Thanks, John.
The wiring is from the same bass as the bridge you got.

LOL!

[BAD RONBO, KiLLeR DWaRfS]

i tried a push/pull in a '74 and it would not fit without routing, so i left it out. the pot's shaft diameter is also too small for a 4001 pick guard, which would require special diameter washers to install it properly. i left in my original rotary switch mod.

[antipodean]

Oddly, the push-pull pot fitted fine in my 72/3 4001 restoration..... Perhaps the routing depth varied from bass to bass back then?

[jps]

i tried a push/pull in a '74 and it would not fit without routing, so i left it out. the pot's shaft diameter is also too small for a 4001 pick guard, which would require special diameter washers to install it properly. i left in my original rotary switch mod.

On the '08 4003 I just sold the hole in the pickguard was the same size as the others, only a washer was added to help hold it in place.

[cassius987]

i tried a push/pull in a '74 and it would not fit without routing, so i left it out. the pot's shaft diameter is also too small for a 4001 pick guard, which would require special diameter washers to install it properly. i left in my original rotary switch mod.

On the '08 4003 I just sold the hole in the pickguard was the same size as the others, only a washer was added to help hold it in place.

+1--this is exactly how Ric does it. The washer is just large enough to press against the pickguard without going through the hole. On bought-from-boutique DPDT pots you need to use pliers to pull off a little metal tab that prevents the pot from going flush. I guess that's a "sanctity test" for the pot for anyone wondering if they are new or not.

[aceonbass]

Don't forget to remove the ground tab from the bottom of RIC's push-pull pot. It's a major impediment to fitting in the cavity of older RIC basses. You can still solder wire to the side of the pot case to use for a ground.