Hi,
just to mention first that I am new here - and new owner of a 350/12V63 Jetglo (used but in mint condition).
A most fine guitar, but I have to replace the nut as the recent owner has replaced a nut with different notches, may be it wasn't pre-cut before he replaced it.
Does anybody know about the standard height of the nut - I would probably have to file down it a little bit on the bottom side?
I assume it won't be more than 1 mm that have to file "away". I don't want to spoil this because it is not easy to get these parts in Germany...
Technical question on nut height
Moderators: rickenbrother, ajish4
Re: Technical question on nut height
I don't have an answer for you re: your technical question...
but I DO want to see your new RIC... I only recently have become enamored with the 350 .. full scale-21 fret-small body like my 620/6... but with a semi hollow body.. . very interesting.. .. and have been very curious how it would be in a 12 string! .. for a quintessential RIC sound!
please do post pics if you can!
Tnx,
M
but I DO want to see your new RIC... I only recently have become enamored with the 350 .. full scale-21 fret-small body like my 620/6... but with a semi hollow body.. . very interesting.. .. and have been very curious how it would be in a 12 string! .. for a quintessential RIC sound!
please do post pics if you can!
Tnx,
M
Re: Technical question on nut height
There isn't a "spec" for the nut per se -- ideally it should be no higher than a fret in its place would be. Generally, it's a couple thousands higher than that.
When you hold the string(s) down at the third fret and hold the guitar up to the light, you should see the tiniest gap between the string and the first fret.
Hope that helps!
- Scott
When you hold the string(s) down at the third fret and hold the guitar up to the light, you should see the tiniest gap between the string and the first fret.
Hope that helps!
- Scott
Re: Technical question on nut height
Doesn't nut height vary based on temperature and how tall you are?
Tom
Tom
It's a Byrd, it's a playin'..........
'73 4001 MG
'09 360/12 FG
'10 360/6 FG
'09 360/12 FG
'10 360/6 FG
Re: Technical question on nut height
Excellent!beatbyrd wrote:Doesn't nut height vary based on temperature and how tall you are?
Tom
Re: Technical question on nut height
Nice word play, well I assume the answer from Scott could be quite helpful.I will try to get this ready by today and after having adjusted everything (truss rod etc, new strings as well) some pics will be posted for sure !
Currently it does not look that complete without the TRC and the strings pulled aside on both sides of the neck to replace the nut
I will come back when I have fixed it - more hints are welcome !
Peter
Re: Technical question on nut height
Is the entire nut off or just a few strings?
If I were undertaking re-doing this replacement/adjustment, I would put a capo on the first fret and then measure what the clearance is for each string at the second fret with a feeler gauge.
Then with the new nut installed, you have a good idea of how deep the nut should be cut in order to maintain that same clearance from string to first fret.
If just a few strings are off, it's usually faster to re-adjust only the bad ones rather than replacing the entire nut. If you run across some that are two low, a drop of crazy glue left in the nut slot overnight can then be filed down to the desired height.
If I were undertaking re-doing this replacement/adjustment, I would put a capo on the first fret and then measure what the clearance is for each string at the second fret with a feeler gauge.
Then with the new nut installed, you have a good idea of how deep the nut should be cut in order to maintain that same clearance from string to first fret.
If just a few strings are off, it's usually faster to re-adjust only the bad ones rather than replacing the entire nut. If you run across some that are two low, a drop of crazy glue left in the nut slot overnight can then be filed down to the desired height.
Re: Technical question on nut height
There's a lot involved in replacing a nut. You don't mention the type of new nut you are working with, but RIC sells pre-cut nuts for 12-strings that are very reasonably priced.
As far as working with whatever nut you have for your 12er, there's likely much more to it than just taking off some of the bottom of the nut. The nut slot for each string will have to be filed down to proper depth and width. You may want to entrust this job to a luthier. There are some instructions published by Stewart-MacDonald (a US guitar supply shop) here.
I don't cite this as an encouragement to buy anything from Stew-Mac, but to show you what may be involved with finishing up a nut. Click on "Using Feeler Gauges to Control Nut Slot Depth" to get an idea of part of what's involved.
Good luck!
As far as working with whatever nut you have for your 12er, there's likely much more to it than just taking off some of the bottom of the nut. The nut slot for each string will have to be filed down to proper depth and width. You may want to entrust this job to a luthier. There are some instructions published by Stewart-MacDonald (a US guitar supply shop) here.
I don't cite this as an encouragement to buy anything from Stew-Mac, but to show you what may be involved with finishing up a nut. Click on "Using Feeler Gauges to Control Nut Slot Depth" to get an idea of part of what's involved.
Good luck!
Re: Technical question on nut height
(Been out for a few days),
many thanks for some more useful hints - luckily I could use a new pre-cut nut from Rickenbacker.
to libratune: I bought 2 original pieces of them to have a 2nd chance when would have spoiled the first one.
So the action was reduced only to file down the bottom side of the nut.
Meanwhile I have finished the work successfully on this topic, I will prepare some pics during upcoming weekend.
I have filed down ~1mm from the bottom (upside down in a plain vise) - taking care of the right angle. Removing the old nut was simple, just a short knock from the fret side of it and I could remove it. There were only a few residues of glue which were removed easily with a sharp scalpel.
Then I checked the height putting all strings back into the pre-cut grooves. As they were still in tune more or less I could check for any buzzing and action.
It was perfect at the first attempt (luckily). Removed the strings out of the grooves and fixed the nut with 2 drops of super glue on the bottom side.
Some waiting time to safe guard the fixing and even after changing the strings (from D'Addario to RIC originals for 12string) the action is still perfect.
Only a very small adjustment of the bridge height had to be done and that's it.
Even after a few days now nothing has changed.
I must admit that sometimes I was sweating that something could go wrong.
After all I am happy that I did it myself. Now the guitar became something very personal and the more often you work on it the more familiar you get with it. Changing 12 strings is not a problem at all now after the 2nd time I did it.
But the most important and rewarding thing is to play on the 350/12 - and I now understand the ones who promised me that would have nothing but pure fun with it.
Thanks for all the hints and watch out for the pics upcoming.
many thanks for some more useful hints - luckily I could use a new pre-cut nut from Rickenbacker.
to libratune: I bought 2 original pieces of them to have a 2nd chance when would have spoiled the first one.
So the action was reduced only to file down the bottom side of the nut.
Meanwhile I have finished the work successfully on this topic, I will prepare some pics during upcoming weekend.
I have filed down ~1mm from the bottom (upside down in a plain vise) - taking care of the right angle. Removing the old nut was simple, just a short knock from the fret side of it and I could remove it. There were only a few residues of glue which were removed easily with a sharp scalpel.
Then I checked the height putting all strings back into the pre-cut grooves. As they were still in tune more or less I could check for any buzzing and action.
It was perfect at the first attempt (luckily). Removed the strings out of the grooves and fixed the nut with 2 drops of super glue on the bottom side.
Some waiting time to safe guard the fixing and even after changing the strings (from D'Addario to RIC originals for 12string) the action is still perfect.
Only a very small adjustment of the bridge height had to be done and that's it.
Even after a few days now nothing has changed.
I must admit that sometimes I was sweating that something could go wrong.
After all I am happy that I did it myself. Now the guitar became something very personal and the more often you work on it the more familiar you get with it. Changing 12 strings is not a problem at all now after the 2nd time I did it.
But the most important and rewarding thing is to play on the 350/12 - and I now understand the ones who promised me that would have nothing but pure fun with it.
Thanks for all the hints and watch out for the pics upcoming.
Re: Technical question on nut height
I wish more of us would be a little more adventuresome and have THAT particular satifaction.I must admit that sometimes I was sweating that something could go wrong.
After all I am happy that I did it myself. Now the guitar became something very personal and the more often you work on it the more familiar you get with it.
Re: Technical question on nut height
After a while now - I owe you something - there she is :
Three glossy toasters - sound as they look
Trapeze tailpiece, needs careful handling while restringing, octaves first into the grooves
Headstock might look somewhat confusing - I love the way strings vanish into their machines
The case and the beauty
Just another body shot
Look at those extended pole pieces - the real vintage
and here my favourite pic - scratch plate detached and flipped up, a macro shot
I hope you enjoy viewing as much as I enjoy playing AND viewing,
I only can say - if you ever can get one - just do it !
Cheers and many thanks for the valuable hints on the topic I was asking for!
Peter
Three glossy toasters - sound as they look
Trapeze tailpiece, needs careful handling while restringing, octaves first into the grooves
Headstock might look somewhat confusing - I love the way strings vanish into their machines
The case and the beauty
Just another body shot
Look at those extended pole pieces - the real vintage
and here my favourite pic - scratch plate detached and flipped up, a macro shot
I hope you enjoy viewing as much as I enjoy playing AND viewing,
I only can say - if you ever can get one - just do it !
Cheers and many thanks for the valuable hints on the topic I was asking for!
Peter