Dilemma between buying 330/12 or 360/12. Help?
Moderators: rickenbrother, ajish4
Dilemma between buying 330/12 or 360/12. Help?
I am considering making my first Ric purchase. I need some help from experienced Ric owners/players please. I love the looks of the 330/12 since it more closely resembles the 60's look (I am a devout Beatle fan), but all I read points me to the 360/12 being the better model with a better sound. Is this true? The nearest dealer to me is about 100 miles away, so I am relying on photos and articles to help me decide. I realize the 330 does not have stereo, is that critical to the Ric Sound? Any help would be appreciated.
Nothing compares to the sound of a Rick 12 with a JangleBox and a touch of chorus.
I will give you point of view as to the difference between the two models
the obvious one are just the looks
the 330 is a pseudo WHO / Beatles look
while the 360 is the BYRDS look
Sound wise (with 21 fret necks) they are the same
(with both having 24 frets they are the same )
Playability wise ,this is another matter.
While both have low actions,the 330 has a wider playing area.
The 360 has fretwork that is inside the binding (this is the same way as any Gibson guitar that has neck binding)
The 330 has no binding and the frets run all the way to the side of the neck.That is about .080 to .120 worth of neck in difference.
EVEN with the fret bevel on the 330 ,the strings have the ability to be spread to their maximum width and in effect give you a wider playing/fretting surface.This is something to really consider.YES ,there are those that feel it just takes a bit of getting used to and the 360-12 is a terrific guitar to play .BUT...I play Les Paul's,ES-335's ,CF Martin D-28 ,an Olson acoustic and my own guitars that I have made and I find the narrow neck to be uncomfortable to switch back and forth from.
I just worked on a beautiful figured Maple 660-12 and that can be found in my hands at the registration site.This guitar had the wider neck .The nut spacing could have been spaced even further,there was plenty of room for it.That was fine .With the toasters it sounded great.It does not quite have the tone that the 330 or the 360 have ,but it played and sounded wonderful.You might even think about that model if you are a Gibson kind of guy.
As to the 360-12 ,think about a strat with narrower spacing ...this is what the 360 is like .
THIS is the issue with me ...the look of the two models relates to Gibson's ES335 and the ES345.They are the same ,one is mono only and the other stereo.I have turned ES345 guitar -mono for nearly everyone I know that owns one .Stereo is something that you will find you won't use as a normal feature.In fact you will find it to be a curiosity.
the obvious one are just the looks
the 330 is a pseudo WHO / Beatles look
while the 360 is the BYRDS look
Sound wise (with 21 fret necks) they are the same
(with both having 24 frets they are the same )
Playability wise ,this is another matter.
While both have low actions,the 330 has a wider playing area.
The 360 has fretwork that is inside the binding (this is the same way as any Gibson guitar that has neck binding)
The 330 has no binding and the frets run all the way to the side of the neck.That is about .080 to .120 worth of neck in difference.
EVEN with the fret bevel on the 330 ,the strings have the ability to be spread to their maximum width and in effect give you a wider playing/fretting surface.This is something to really consider.YES ,there are those that feel it just takes a bit of getting used to and the 360-12 is a terrific guitar to play .BUT...I play Les Paul's,ES-335's ,CF Martin D-28 ,an Olson acoustic and my own guitars that I have made and I find the narrow neck to be uncomfortable to switch back and forth from.
I just worked on a beautiful figured Maple 660-12 and that can be found in my hands at the registration site.This guitar had the wider neck .The nut spacing could have been spaced even further,there was plenty of room for it.That was fine .With the toasters it sounded great.It does not quite have the tone that the 330 or the 360 have ,but it played and sounded wonderful.You might even think about that model if you are a Gibson kind of guy.
As to the 360-12 ,think about a strat with narrower spacing ...this is what the 360 is like .
THIS is the issue with me ...the look of the two models relates to Gibson's ES335 and the ES345.They are the same ,one is mono only and the other stereo.I have turned ES345 guitar -mono for nearly everyone I know that owns one .Stereo is something that you will find you won't use as a normal feature.In fact you will find it to be a curiosity.
So you too want yours "ALAPWOB"?!?!
Thanks, Mark. I really appreciate your help. You are very kind to give me your advice. I'm about to purchase a brand of guitar I have never held or played. (But since I first heard one, I have been hooked.) If the sound is exactly the same, as I believe you said it was, then it is definitely the 330 style for me.
My main guitar now is a Fender American Strat and I recently purchased a Fender Ultimate Chorus Amp. I moved up from the Mexican Strat model after seeing the difference for myself. I had been told there was very little difference. Boy, was I shocked. I also own a Jasmine 12 string electric/acoustic. I have never played a Rickenbacker, but I have wanted a Ric 12 for more than 30 years. There are no dealers here in Columbia, SC, but I found one in Greenville about a 100 mile trip one way for me. After talking with him on the phone, I plan to go there to order one very soon. He doesn't have a 12 string in stock, so I will be buying mine on faith. He does have a 330 six string. So, I guess that will have to do for my first "Rixperience."
I believe the extra spacing on the 330/340 will be better for me, too, since I will be switching off to my Strat occasionally. I would also like to ask if adding the 3rd pickup (340/12) makes a big differnce, too. I want as much "Rickenbacker Mystique" as I can afford. Thanks again for your kindness.
Jay McElveen
My main guitar now is a Fender American Strat and I recently purchased a Fender Ultimate Chorus Amp. I moved up from the Mexican Strat model after seeing the difference for myself. I had been told there was very little difference. Boy, was I shocked. I also own a Jasmine 12 string electric/acoustic. I have never played a Rickenbacker, but I have wanted a Ric 12 for more than 30 years. There are no dealers here in Columbia, SC, but I found one in Greenville about a 100 mile trip one way for me. After talking with him on the phone, I plan to go there to order one very soon. He doesn't have a 12 string in stock, so I will be buying mine on faith. He does have a 330 six string. So, I guess that will have to do for my first "Rixperience."
I believe the extra spacing on the 330/340 will be better for me, too, since I will be switching off to my Strat occasionally. I would also like to ask if adding the 3rd pickup (340/12) makes a big differnce, too. I want as much "Rickenbacker Mystique" as I can afford. Thanks again for your kindness.
Jay McElveen
Nothing compares to the sound of a Rick 12 with a JangleBox and a touch of chorus.
THe third pickup is a quandary in itself.
HOW do you wire it and what do you want to achieve with it?
The 3 pickup guitars that are "Stock" have the middle ganged up with the neck pickup.This gives you the #4 click of a strat switch tone .You also get all three together and then the bridge pickup by itself.
Another way that these guitars get modified to is ;
switch is stock as a two pickup guitar ,the controls stay the same except the 5th knob get changed to the volume control of the middle pickup.That can allow you to have any of the stock sounds plus it gives you the two Strat "out of phase" tones.
One idea that I have played with is this .Adding the third pickup as a 'dummy' coil forever wired into the circuit in series.This coil needs to have the magnet(s) removed so it won't 'see' the strings.This way you retain the single coil tones ,yet the two live/magnet pickups see the strings and the 60cycle hum of the USA is not heard.At least in therory.Now this is not a cure all for noise ...but it would be better than just running straight single coil.At least an option.
R McGuinn uses a third pickup on only a few studio tracks ( My Back Pages ,for instance) but other than that it is a cosmetic feature.He rarely uses it.
HOW do you wire it and what do you want to achieve with it?
The 3 pickup guitars that are "Stock" have the middle ganged up with the neck pickup.This gives you the #4 click of a strat switch tone .You also get all three together and then the bridge pickup by itself.
Another way that these guitars get modified to is ;
switch is stock as a two pickup guitar ,the controls stay the same except the 5th knob get changed to the volume control of the middle pickup.That can allow you to have any of the stock sounds plus it gives you the two Strat "out of phase" tones.
One idea that I have played with is this .Adding the third pickup as a 'dummy' coil forever wired into the circuit in series.This coil needs to have the magnet(s) removed so it won't 'see' the strings.This way you retain the single coil tones ,yet the two live/magnet pickups see the strings and the 60cycle hum of the USA is not heard.At least in therory.Now this is not a cure all for noise ...but it would be better than just running straight single coil.At least an option.
R McGuinn uses a third pickup on only a few studio tracks ( My Back Pages ,for instance) but other than that it is a cosmetic feature.He rarely uses it.
So you too want yours "ALAPWOB"?!?!