Filing newer bridge to fit old tailpiece

[jakeox]

I'm dying to play my '72 4001 with my band, but I currently have a newer style bridge with an original split-tooth tailpiece. Because the newer bridge is a bit wider than the cutout on the tailpiece (i.e., early 70s bridges were skinnier), the bridge sits up on one of the edges, and the action's pretty high. Too high to play for more than a couple minutes, really.

I'm thinking of filing down the edges of the bridge to fit the tailpiece. Has anyone done this? I've heard of people routing out the tailpiece to accept the newer bridge, but I'd rather just install a whole new tailpiece than do that. The bridge I have is pretty worn out so it won't be a huge loss.

Any thoughts? Is there enough meat on these tailpieces to file away to make it fit? Can I do this myself with a file and some patience? Or should I just install a non-gapped tailpiece?

[rickaddict]

I've never done it, but my vote is to mutilate the bridge in whatever way you can see fit to make it work with your gap-toothed aluminum tail. The tail as I know you're well aware is going to be the hard one to replace. So I'd say, do anything you can to the bridge to try to make it work, and keep an eye on ebay and/or the "Wanted" section here for an old aluminum bridge and saddles. They do pop up occasionally.

[rickaddict]

Someone really needs to have a machinist make a batch of these. Jeff Rath had a batch of nice 5-string bridges with saddles made, so at least we know it's possible.

I bet a batch of 10 vintage spec bridges w/saddles would sell reasonably quickly on this forum/ebay.

Maybe Chip at Winfield Vintage would have some ideas...

[BAD RONBO, KiLLeR DWaRfS]

i milled out enough material a bit at a time on the old style tailpiece to make the mid '70's to current saddle bridge fit on my '64,'68 and '70.
a drill press and 90 deg. milling bit was used in my case. there was a enough extra material in that area so as not to alter the strength. i've had no tail lift at all on these three basses, and this was all done around 1986. do this mod at your own risk and you alter this tailpiece forever.

[jakeox]

Yes, I'd much rather mod the bridge (replaceable for ~$60) than the gap tailpiece (if you can find one, several hundred dollars). I also don't have much in the way of tools, or a place to work -- a file (and elbow grease) is about all I have to work with.

[aceonbass]

Someone on the forum made a batch of these in recent years and offered them here for less than $100.00 each I think. Do a search and see if you can find something on it. I don't think it's possible to remove enough material from a current bridge and still have any material left on the rear face to hold saddle adjusting screws, HOWEVER, you may be able to use the saddles without the screws with just the downward tension of the strings holding them in place once you've set your intonation.

[teeder]

Jake,

I'm about a week away from trying this myself. I was going to use a spare "Allparts" version for my 1st try.

[teeder]

Someone on the forum made a batch of these in recent years and offered them here for less than $100.00 each I think. Do a search and see if you can find something on it. I don't think it's possible to remove enough material from a current bridge and still have any material left on the rear face to hold saddle adjusting screws, HOWEVER, you may be able to use the saddles without the screws with just the downward tension of the strings holding them in place once you've set your intonation.

After looking at my spare bridge I believe Dane is correct. I don't think there will be enough material left. Since my tailpiece is already in less than perfect condition, I'm going to remove the material from it. I don't want to make the bridge any weaker than it already is.
I may also make a drawing of an original one and have a guy make a few for me.

[johnallg]

After looking at my spare bridge I believe Dane is correct. I don't think there will be enough material left. Since my tailpiece is already in less than perfect condition, I'm going to remove the material from it. I don't want to make the bridge any weaker than it already is.
I may also make a drawing of an original one and have a guy make a few for me.

I would have him mill it from solid aluminum, mill slots to correctly pass the new saddles at the correct height, and also use allen screws. Debug it then go into production!

[jakeox]

Thanks for the thoughts, all. If we're thinking of the same person who was making replica bridges, I thought I was in on that order, but haven't heard anything in months. Did anyone actually get one?

For the time being I have a later tailpiece/bridge combo on the way ... it will look a little out of place on the '72, but at least I'll be able to play it.

[antipodean]

Hmmm.... will a modern TP require you drill the extra holes or will it be strong enough to work with just the three screws under the bridge holding them in place without substantial tail-lift (as per the vintage gap-tooth TP)?

[jakeox]

Hmmm.... will a modern TP require you drill the extra holes or will it be strong enough to work with just the three screws under the bridge holding them in place without substantial tail-lift (as per the vintage gap-tooth TP)?

That's a good question. It used to have a 5-screw tp but I'm guessing the extra holes were filled when it was refinned. I guess we'll see -- I'd rather try the noninvasive procedure first.

[johnallg]

Just make sure the rout where the 3 screws go is touching the bottom of the tailpiece or use the washer method and you should have a decent chance at no tail lift.