Partial FG refinish
Moderator: jingle_jangle
Partial FG refinish
Hello Paul, I went searching for something about this topic and couldn't find it. I could have sworn that I read something about that here. At any rate, I wanted to know, from your point of view, how tuff it is to match up a FG paint on a partial redo i.e. just a neck and headstock? Mark
Re: Partial FG refinish
Let me reword this. Does anyone have any experiences, or have heard anything about matching partial fireglo refinishes? I seem to recall there being a thread about this, but wouldn't you know it, I can't find it. Thanks for putting up with my silly questions. Mark
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Dave Scantland
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Re: Partial FG refinish
This topic might help: viewtopic.php?f=14&t=384810&hilit=nail+polish
Re: Partial FG refinish
Thanks David, I checked that out, good info. I also searched and found some of the threads that applied. I'll get this yet. Thanks again. Mark
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jingle_jangle
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Re: Partial FG refinish
This depends upon your ability to match colors on the fly, and also your ability to whip out your wallet...
FG is a see-through (translucent) finish, so not only do you have to consider the color of the translucent (some call it "candy" or "kandy") color coat, but you also need to think about how much is put on, and how the color of the wood underneath will affect the final, sprayed color.
I mix my own FGs to match the finish; decades of experience mixing exotic finishes and a full selection (about 75 quarts) of mixing colors make this palatable, though seldom "easy".
The reason I mention finances is that mixing colors are very pricey, and reds are priciest, topping out at about $150.00 per pint. And, a pure transparent red will simply not work; it must be modified with some transparent ochre and transparent reddish-brown to get the color just right, and this is done by eye.
It seems to me that the best way for a DIYer to go about this is to have a good friend who is also experienced in mixing colors and painting. He would be like the guy in the crowd who has the pickup truck--greatly in demand, and sometimes curmudgeonly and feeling put-upon.
When I do a partial refinish like this, I make the joint at the neck/body joint; in the case of a neck-through bass, I'll run the seam along the semi-circle of the neck heel and buff out the seam. This means the whole neck/headstock will be refinished to match the body, after being stripped to bare maple. You can choose to either mask off the fetboard, or strip it, refret it, and revarnish it as well.
Lots of things to consider. It's very tough for an amateur, with a lot of risk to the instrument and a very steep learning curve and potential for getting it very wrong. If it was easy, there would be guitar refinishers on every street corner...
Additionally, I've never had a partial refinish that was less work than a complete refinish, so I generally discourage touch-ups as expensive and not good value for money, unless you're trying to preserve part of the original finish for historical or sentimental reasons.
FG is a see-through (translucent) finish, so not only do you have to consider the color of the translucent (some call it "candy" or "kandy") color coat, but you also need to think about how much is put on, and how the color of the wood underneath will affect the final, sprayed color.
I mix my own FGs to match the finish; decades of experience mixing exotic finishes and a full selection (about 75 quarts) of mixing colors make this palatable, though seldom "easy".
The reason I mention finances is that mixing colors are very pricey, and reds are priciest, topping out at about $150.00 per pint. And, a pure transparent red will simply not work; it must be modified with some transparent ochre and transparent reddish-brown to get the color just right, and this is done by eye.
It seems to me that the best way for a DIYer to go about this is to have a good friend who is also experienced in mixing colors and painting. He would be like the guy in the crowd who has the pickup truck--greatly in demand, and sometimes curmudgeonly and feeling put-upon.
When I do a partial refinish like this, I make the joint at the neck/body joint; in the case of a neck-through bass, I'll run the seam along the semi-circle of the neck heel and buff out the seam. This means the whole neck/headstock will be refinished to match the body, after being stripped to bare maple. You can choose to either mask off the fetboard, or strip it, refret it, and revarnish it as well.
Lots of things to consider. It's very tough for an amateur, with a lot of risk to the instrument and a very steep learning curve and potential for getting it very wrong. If it was easy, there would be guitar refinishers on every street corner...
Additionally, I've never had a partial refinish that was less work than a complete refinish, so I generally discourage touch-ups as expensive and not good value for money, unless you're trying to preserve part of the original finish for historical or sentimental reasons.
Re: Partial FG refinish
Thank you very much Paul. As usual, when I get a hair brained idea, it normally doesn't pan out. I thank you again for your expertise, and all of you for your patience. Mark