Use of taperwounds on a 4003S/5
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dr_wahnsinn
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Use of taperwounds on a 4003S/5
Do any of you use taperwounds on your 4003S/5? If so, what set did you find that has enough taper to fit the stock RIC tailpiece, or did you find it necessary to make a modification to the bass? I'm asking because I've always wanted to refinish my '86 4003S/5 and never see a white bass other than my '74 4001 again. However, I've made a small mod to the bass that I want to tidy up a bit before I have the refinishing done.
I was never happy with the tone I got from the low-B string. I ordered and tried several different types of B strings on it including a monster .145, but nothing made it sound as good as I thought it should. I didn't really want to sell the bass so I decided to mod it. So, about 20 years ago, I used a section of brass bar to fashion an anchor for the strings - one that would fit just in that area under the tailpiece where the strings first become visible. This, of course, required drilling holes into the bass to anchor the brass piece. Now - stay with me here - I was able to put on a set of Pedulla taperwound strings and the low string sounded incredible! There isn't enough clearance to change strings without loosening up all the tailpiece screws, but for me that isn't a problem as I prefer steel-wound strings to be rather dull sounding.
So, do any of you have any ideas that would allow me to remove my brass piece and still be able to use taperwound strings?
I'll post a photo of the work if you must see what I did.
Thanks in advance.
I was never happy with the tone I got from the low-B string. I ordered and tried several different types of B strings on it including a monster .145, but nothing made it sound as good as I thought it should. I didn't really want to sell the bass so I decided to mod it. So, about 20 years ago, I used a section of brass bar to fashion an anchor for the strings - one that would fit just in that area under the tailpiece where the strings first become visible. This, of course, required drilling holes into the bass to anchor the brass piece. Now - stay with me here - I was able to put on a set of Pedulla taperwound strings and the low string sounded incredible! There isn't enough clearance to change strings without loosening up all the tailpiece screws, but for me that isn't a problem as I prefer steel-wound strings to be rather dull sounding.
So, do any of you have any ideas that would allow me to remove my brass piece and still be able to use taperwound strings?
I'll post a photo of the work if you must see what I did.
Thanks in advance.
Re: Use of taperwounds on a 4003S/5
And in general to add to this as I am getting one of these soon, what strings are people using on their 4003s/5?
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rickaddict
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Re: Use of taperwounds on a 4003S/5
I use Elixers. Custom set from JustStrings.com: 40-60-80-100-120(B choice might have to be might be a 125...I forget). Long lasting, slick as butter, nice tone.
Last edited by rickaddict on Tue Sep 21, 2010 3:04 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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rickaddict
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Re: Use of taperwounds on a 4003S/5
I think pics would help, Jocelyn.
- rickenbrother
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Re: Use of taperwounds on a 4003S/5
Jocelyn, I also think pics would help.
Brian, I use the D'Addario EXL170-5 set (.130 - .100 - .080 - .065 - .045) on my S/5. The B string sounds fine as do the rest of the strings on Da Blue Beast.
Brian, I use the D'Addario EXL170-5 set (.130 - .100 - .080 - .065 - .045) on my S/5. The B string sounds fine as do the rest of the strings on Da Blue Beast.
JETGLO should officially be renamed JETGLO ROCKS! 
Re: Use of taperwounds on a 4003S/5
I performed a similar mod on a 4003 once. I completely removed the string anchoring flange from the rear of the tailpiece, then I routed the top of the body below the rear of the tailpiece to accept a steel plate with holes in the plate shaped like keyholes to retain the strings. The bass sustained much better, there will be no more tail lift, and the strings can be changed without removing the tailpiece.
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dr_wahnsinn
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Re: Use of taperwounds on a 4003S/5
Ask and ye shall receive. Don't let the large screws frighten you. Please ignore the grounding wire, I was apparently too lazy to route it so it wouldn't be seen.
Dane, this mod helps me with sustain too but I was just too chicken to permanently alter my tailpiece.
Dane, this mod helps me with sustain too but I was just too chicken to permanently alter my tailpiece.
Re: Use of taperwounds on a 4003S/5
Dane & Jocelyn, great idea! 
Re: Use of taperwounds on a 4003S/5
Yeah, that looks really nice. Are you sure you want to change it back??
- cassius987
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Re: Use of taperwounds on a 4003S/5
I have to admit I have absolutely no idea what the brass thing is doing that the tailpiece didn't already and how it aids in using taperwounds. Can anyone clear this up?
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dr_wahnsinn
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Re: Use of taperwounds on a 4003S/5
Yes Cassius, I'll clear that up for you right now [pulls out podium]
. For a taperwound to be effective, the section of the string with fewer wraps must pass over the bridge. On a stock Rickenbacker 4001/4003, the distance between the ball end and the bridge is too great for any taperwound string that I've measured. These strings all seem to be made with Fender or Badass bridges in mind and simply don't function as intended on the above mentioned Rickenbacker models. It's close, but where the string end is anchored is just a touch too far. The brass addition shortens this distance enough that the narrow portion of the taperwound just clears the saddles. It gives me a tone that I consider far superior to using a standard wrapped low-B. Had I bothered to make before and after sound recordings, the difference would have been clear enough for even Taylor Swift to hear.
Without taperwounds, this bass is useless to me.
Thanks, JPS.
John, it looks ok, but I don't know what I want to do about it. I guess what I'm looking for is an idea somewhere in between what Dane and I have. I don't really want to permanently alter the tailpiece, but I'd like to reverse the body mod and have everything be less visible. I'm trying to think of something that I can perhaps anchor through the tailpiece string holes, but that would allow me to anchor the strings through the string opening closer to the bridge.
Thanks, JPS.
John, it looks ok, but I don't know what I want to do about it. I guess what I'm looking for is an idea somewhere in between what Dane and I have. I don't really want to permanently alter the tailpiece, but I'd like to reverse the body mod and have everything be less visible. I'm trying to think of something that I can perhaps anchor through the tailpiece string holes, but that would allow me to anchor the strings through the string opening closer to the bridge.
Re: Use of taperwounds on a 4003S/5
That looks similar to a tailpiece I made 3 or 4 years ago for a friend's fretless bass.
"The best things in life aren't things."
Re: Use of taperwounds on a 4003S/5
Anchoring the strings to the body has a big influence on the sound. The stock 4-string tailpiece anchors the strings to a point quite a bit rearward of the last pair of screws on the tailpiece. Whether the tailpiece lifts or not may not change the sound at all as long as it's only a millimeter or two. Since 4003/5's already have a 7 screw bridge I'm wondering if the use of brass made the improvement in sound. I'd cut the old string mounting flange out of the tailpiece. It'll make you're life a whole lot easier. It's always best to change one string at a time so as not to upset your neck adjustment. It's not like you won't be able to find another tailpiece to replace it if you want to return it to stock. Rick owners worry WAY too much about irreversable mods to their basses, which I find odd since just about every well known Rick bass player has done so.
Ken, now THAT is the best and simplest solution to tail lift I've ever seen. Can you make som of these up to fit under the tailpiece with the string flange removed?
Ken, now THAT is the best and simplest solution to tail lift I've ever seen. Can you make som of these up to fit under the tailpiece with the string flange removed?
Re: Use of taperwounds on a 4003S/5
I wish I could but since I retired over two years ago I no longer have use of a mill. On top of that I now have severe neuropothy so I have very limited use of my hands. I can no long play, repair or build new guitars. Hopefully this will pass in time.aceonbass wrote: ...
Ken, now THAT is the best and simplest solution to tail lift I've ever seen. Can you make some of these up to fit under the tailpiece with the string flange removed?
"The best things in life aren't things."
Re: Use of taperwounds on a 4003S/5
Wow.
I'm picturing a tape-wrapped taperwound for my S/5.
That would be a very interesting set of strings to play with for a while.
Great topic. This made me go do some string research which I had only glanced at in the past.
I never fully understood why I liked the strings I like (tapewounds currently) and now I know more.
I also know I'd love to buy a set of taperwounds that were nylon wrapped, just for kicks.
I'm picturing a tape-wrapped taperwound for my S/5.
That would be a very interesting set of strings to play with for a while.
Great topic. This made me go do some string research which I had only glanced at in the past.
I never fully understood why I liked the strings I like (tapewounds currently) and now I know more.
I also know I'd love to buy a set of taperwounds that were nylon wrapped, just for kicks.
