1960 Glue

[cjj]

Any idea what kind of glue would have been used in 1960 to attach an aluminum "fretboard" to the maple on a 700 series console steel?

Should I try to use the same sort of glue, or is there a better newer option?

[jingle_jangle]

Contact cement. You can use the same stuff. Works fine.

Now ask me if I know how to remove the fretboard plate without damaging either the plate or the neck...

[cjj]

Um, OK, do you know? I'd guess some sort of solvent, but no idea what might dissolve the cement but not the finish.

I guess I'm "lucky" since 2 of the plates are completely off and the 3rd is about half way loose...

Of course, removing the residue that's left might be nice.

[egosheep]

Could you use a heat lamp to get the glue liquid again? I've seen that used to take a 330 neck out while leaving the back of the guitar in place.

[jingle_jangle]

Old contact cement is difficult, if not impossible, to re-liquefy. To remove this without damaging the finish of the wood underneath, is beyond my own experience.

Regarding heat, it may be possible, but you'd have to proceed very carefully to avoid messing up the finish underneath. I don't think the prognosis would be good.

Rick fretboards are glued to necks with AR water-soluble glue, which softens very nicely with the application of heat with a beam heater. Old contact cement is another story entirely.

[cjj]

I dunno, this stuff might work:
http://www.dap.com/docs/tech/00030535.pdf

DAP Contact cement cleaner and thinner. Says you can use it to delaminate bonded panels, etc. But who knows what's in it. So far, I've been unable to locate their MSDS for it online...

[jingle_jangle]

It's a hydrocarbon adhesive reducer. Toluene, xylene, and other distillates. This'll definitely mar the finish underneath, and after a half-century it is not aggressive enough to dissolve or liquefy what's left of the contact adhesive. That brown stuff you see there is the 50-year-old oxidized latex from the contact adhesive. It's tough to shift without damaging the varnish underneath.

[johnhall]

Actually, on many of the older steel guitars I have, the metal fingerboard has popped off. These certainly don't have contact cement but rather a brown adhesive that looks suspiciously like Resorcinol. On this type, the glue is so brittle that you give the board one solid tap and it will come right off.

[jingle_jangle]

Aha...that would also explain the dark brown color. I've never seen resorcinol glue used to glue metal to wood, but it makes perfect sense. Puzzle solved! Thanks, John.

[cjj]

That also explains why it's so hard to get off.

From DAP's data sheet:
http://www.dap.com/docs/tech/00030205.pdf

"Resorcinol Glue is impervious salt and fresh water, temperature extremes, weather, solvents,
oils, grease, mild acids or alkali."

And under "Cleanup":
"Mixing equipment, spreaders, brushes and all containers must be cleaned thoroughly immediately after use,
with scrub brush and water. Resorcinol glue cannot be removed from most surfaces once cured; sanding,
scraping or chiseling may be successful."

Sounds like tough stuff...