Fix my v68.

[gareth]

If all else fails, it isn't that hard to make new rods for the bassin whatever length you need.

I did it for my 4003 that had worse issues with the rods than yours.

Here's the process I went through to make them.

viewtopic.php?f=14&t=392216

[bassduke49]

I wonder if the Cyanide glues are too brittle . . .

I do hope you have not fallen for the old urban myth that Cyanoacrylate glues release cyanide gas when they cure. Total nonsense.

[johnallg]

John and Dane, I really believe the collapsing maple problem will persist until properly fixed. The body end has to be a ways up the neck now, so it might even take a dowel plug re-drilled to fix it from continuing.

[aceonbass]

Ya..and if the wood compresses too far it will be really hard to drill the maple plug out at the proper angle. Dale F. does a fix with a brass block at the body end of the route and slightly longer truss rods. This might interfere with the 1/2" neck pickup spacing and neccesitate a new pickguard with 1" pickup spacing. I'd be surprised if this hasn't already beem suggested since Dale did the original V68 conversion to begin with.

[T.A.R.]

I wonder if the Cyanide glues are too brittle . . .

I do hope you have not fallen for the old urban myth that Cyanoacrylate glues release cyanide gas when they cure. Total nonsense.

No not at all, I use it. I have developed a sensitivity to West Systems and have to be careful with it. I mostly use MAS as there is no amine plush and there is a little more flexibility. Different products for different jobs each have their strengths and weaknesses.

[cangaroo]

Dale F. does a fix with a brass block at the body end of the route and slightly longer truss rods.

interesting ... i'd like some photos of this trick

[rickenbrother]

Dale F. does a fix with a brass block at the body end of the route and slightly longer truss rods.

interesting ... i'd like some photos of this trick

This was one of my ideas of a possible solution.

[cheyenne]

Thats an interesting solution. With the brass block at the body end the rods could not be pulled up into the neck.

Actually,,,,, thats a great solution.

[aceonbass]

Dale's a wealth of info when it comes to Ricks and working on guitars in general. It's too bad he doesn't post here anymore

[gareth]

Thats an interesting solution. With the brass block at the body end the rods could not be pulled up into the neck.

Actually,,,,, thats a great solution.

Whilst that might be cool, I could see where over-tightening rods set up like that could cause a lot of damage.

If it's got to the point where the neck is essentially requiring major modification, the fretboard could be heated and removed and the truss rod channels repaired that way.At that point, you could route out the damaged area, insert a new filler block of maple, and reroute the channels. It would require a refin afterwards of course.

[aceonbass]

That solution has worked for Dale on numerous occasions. You can ususlly tell when you're allying too much pressure. John's neck was adjustable before, so I think this method would fix it.

[winston]

Dale's a wealth of info when it comes to Ricks and working on guitars in general. It's too bad he doesn't post here anymore

Dale can be found on another popular guitar and bass forum. His knowledge is still available. Based on my discussions with him I believe he is happier there.

[aceonbass]

Oh I know where Dale is. I talk to him all the time over at BeatGear and on the phone. It's just too bad that he's not here anymore.

[sloop_john_b]

Just an update on this. My v68 got to Larry about two days ago and he is already hard at work on it. Here is his diagnosis:

John,
Took it apart (day off), and the problem is in the neck wood. What’s happening is that the bass side truss rod is pulling through the neck. No amount of tightening will work, and there was a lot of washers in it to try to fix the problem, which it obviously didn’t. The way to repair it is to remove the board, and remove and replace the wood at the heel on the bass side. In doing this, I’m probably going to do what is done on the headstock side – which is to insert a metal plate so the problem will never prop up again. Also, the bass side truss rod is locked up and can’t be removed. It appears that when it was installed, it was wrapped with electrical tape, which is thicker than what was used originally – which is a thinner paper tape. I tried my best to get it out, but it’s stuck. So, what we’re looking at is: remove the board, repair the wood in the neck, fabricate and install the metal plate for the heel end, reinstall the board, and repair the finish to like new. Of course it’ll get a full setup as well.

[johneek]

Its in good hands....