Horseshoes Available

[8mileshigh]

I wish I understood 10% of that.

+1

I think they look perty

[songdog]

Watch it Bill, you're starting to sound almost as nerdy as me...

I wish I understood 10% of that.

Did my inner geek get loose again last night?

I started learning to play bass while I was in college getting a degree in electrical engineering... but you probably guessed that already!

[nukebass]

I'm not clear what you meant to say about a "larger cap". A larger cap would pass more lows (it's in series with the pickup).

Well then, a smaller cap. So, it works the same way as a tone cap, that larger the value the more lows it passes? I know that a tone cap is in parallel, so I thought a series cap would work the opposite way, please enlighten me.

High frequencies go through a capacitor easier than low frequencies. In the tone control circuit, the cap is used to short high frequencies to ground. The low frequencies can't go through the cap, so they are still available to drive the amp. In this circuit, it is the DC resistance of the coil and the capacitor that form a voltage divider that depends on frequency.

The cap in series with the bridge pickup blocks low frequencies from reaching the amp, but lets the high frequencies through. In this circuit, it is the capacitor and the volume pot that form the voltage divider.

In either case, to a first approximation the "corner frequency" (where the resistance and the capacitance divide the the voltage evenly between them) is 1 / (2 * pi * R * C), where R is ohms and C is farads. So, for example, if the DC resistance of the pickup is 7.5k, and the tone control is fully CCW (effectively connecting the .047 cap directly to ground), the tone control kicks in around 450 Hz (anything above that will be seriously attenuated).

I need to find a nice way to post diagrams here... words may not be an adequate explanation.

This is info I've been wanting to know for years! What is a good source to look at this in more detail?

[doctorwho]

... This is info I've been wanting to know for years! What is a good source to look at this in more detail?

I typed "1/2πRC" into a Google search and got a lot of hits, including this one with diagrams:

http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_2/chpt_8/2.html

I don't know whether that'll help ...

[jps]

This is more relavent, I think:

http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_2/chpt_8/3.html

[rickaddict]

So it sounds to me like the capacitor works in much the same way as the turbo encabulator, which is thoroughly explained in this video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ac7G7xOG2Ag

[coolhandjjl]

So it sounds to me like the capacitor works in much the same way as the turbo encabulator, which is thoroughly explained in this video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ac7G7xOG2Ag

I think he is also the inventor of the Johnson Rod and SWAG Factor formulae.

[jps]

So it sounds to me like the capacitor works in much the same way as the turbo encabulator, which is thoroughly explained in this video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ac7G7xOG2Ag

How did he get through all that with a straight face?

[jps]

I think he is also the inventor of the.....SWAG Factor formulae.

I better update my files, I didn't realize there was more than one.

[aceonbass]

So after having the RIHS on my '64 for a little while I pulled it off and put the bass away for the time when I can afford to have it properly restored (new fretboard and finish). I'd always wanted to complete the Squire look on my custom 4008 with one of these, so I put it on. Then I replaced the neck HB1 with a current bass high gain and pulled the poles, replacing them with Allen screws. Since the screws didn't get the magnetic field up high enough down low (I had planned on replacing the cover with a toaster) I adjusted them up a bit, which got me a little more volume, but here's the deal....the larger mushroom shaped heads on the original poles pick up the strings on an eight better than skinny Allen screws all the way down or raised closer, but between them. A typical 6 pole toaster or unbuttoned hi-gain might have been better, but I like the sound of the 4003 neck hi-gain and will leave it. The new pickups are about as powerfull as the HB1's I had in it, but brighter with a very solid bottom end on the RIHS. When I had pulled the coil taps on the old HB1's, I got a similar sound, but it wasn't as loud. I think this is the way to go on this bass, plus it just looks right. I also decided to see if I could get the 4001CS pickguard I picked up a couple of years ago to fit the bass. Since the bass has 21 frets with a longer fretboard, I had to cut about 3/8" off the rear, reshape it and drill a new mounting hole. It actually came out looking pretty good. The guard's got a big crack in it, but it will do till I can get it replaced.

[ram]

Looks really good Dane! Interesting about the different behavior with the poles.

[cheyenne]

It'd be really cool if you could get Squire to gig with that someday. I bet he'd really like it.

[aceonbass]

I offered it to Chris for that very purpose when he signed the bass at the House of Blues back in '06. He thanked me, but said he wasn't doing anything requiring an 8-string that night. The original white backed acrylic guard he signed is framed and hanging on my wall.

[cheyenne]

Cool.

[brad70]

I got very luck and got two of these. They are now installed in a jetglo and a midgight blue 4003. They seem to me to be WAY fatter sounding than the original pickups, and I love the way they look.