How do I set a neck?

[nukebass]

I'm not sure if this is the right place to post this so please move it if it goes somewhere else.


I have an old Gibson SB bass (a 350, I think) that I got as a wedding present from my uncle nearly 10 years ago. He paid 10 dollars for it maybe 15 or 20 years ago (I can't remember exactly now) complete with hardware so it was a pretty good deal, regardless of body condition. After I got it, I had the bridge replaced and the luthier told me the neck wasn't set correctly. I didn't believe him at first, but a couple of years later when I put a nicer bridge on it, I was able to see he was right. The neck had a slight upward angle to it.

The bass is worth no real money, but it has sentimental value, so I figured it would be great to try to reset the neck, maybe throw some paint on it and learn a little bit about guitar repair. My first attempt to remove the neck led me to remove the fretboard because I saw a description on the internet of a Les Paul neck repair where the joint was under the board. After removing the board, I found out that this bass didn't have the joint under the board. D'oh!

The bass went back in the closet until a few weeks ago when I saw another internet posting where somebody was talking about a SG neck joint from the early 70s. I looked at the picture and then looked at my SB and realized they had the same neck joint. Then I got to thinking that maybe enough heat would get the neck out. A couple of days ago, I took out the heat gun and set to work. After a while, I finally got the neck loose. I think I used too much heat since I caused a couple of cracks to either form or expand on the body and the neck (I think these are where the pieces were glued together). They have closed back up pretty good now, so I think I will just glue them together at some point.

Now for the question. How do I reset the neck and ensure it is straight? My current plan is to sand the joint area smooth and check each piece is flat. Then glue it in place with wood glue (or should I use hide glue?). Here are some pictures of the joint.

I'm thinking that at some point in the past, the bass was dropped or the neck set since there is a slight crack on the one side of the pocket and the "horn" looks broken off. I figure if this is a lost cause or I destroy the bass in the process, I at least have some early 70s Gibson tuners and pickups.

[jps]

Given the cost no object no cost project aspect of this bass, why not just turn it into a bolt on neck instrument? This way, you can add shims where needed to adjust for the correct neck tilt.

[jingle_jangle]

If you're dead set on doing this, it's fairly easy as long as you have some patience and a very flat surface. Do you have a Corian or Formica kitchen counter or table? Both are suitable; the surface must be clean, smooth, and dead flat. A piece of plate glass larger than the guitar is OK, too. I use a granite surface plate to do neck sets.

1. Clamp the guitar body to the surface or fasten it in place with a few 2" squares of double-stick carpet tape. Four pieces should do the trick.

2. Test-fit the neck into the rabbet (slot) in the body. Lay the neck down on the flat surface and determine how much it will have to be blocked up temporarily in order to sit dead level.

3. You can check for "dead level" with a piece of file card stock and a sharp pencil. Have an assistant hold the neck in place, more or less level, and, holding the piece of file card vertically against the neck, make a mark at the exact seam where the fretboard and neck are glued together, at the body end, as close to the body as possible. Next, check for the seam position at the nut or first fret. Prop the neck up with something underneath, and keep shimming until both sides of the neck along its full length, have the glue seam between the fretboard and neck, at exactly the same level, using the pencil mark on the card as reference.

4. Hide glue is a pricey proposition, and what is sold as prepackaged hide glue shouldn't be used--hide glue has to be hot to bond best. Instead, if you don't plan on ever separating the neck again, use gorilla glue. If you want the disassembly option, use Titebond AR glue.

5. Apply glue to the neck pocket, set the neck in place, check that it's propped level, and place a weight over the neck glue joint only. Check again for level and adjust as necessary. Wipe off excess glue with a damp cloth. Allow to dry overnight with weight on it. Carefully peel up the body and you're set (so to speak).

[Clint]

Given the cost no object no cost project aspect of this bass, why not just turn it into a bolt on neck instrument? This way, you can add shims where needed to adjust for the correct neck tilt.

I agree. That looks just like a Fender's neck joint to me. Is there any reason this wouldn't work?

[jps]

One difference is that the heel of the neck extends below the joint and is glued to the surface that is perpendicular to the joint; usually, resetting the neck by gluing it back in would be the proper thing to do, but in this case I think it would be fun to experiment a little.

[nukebass]

Thanks for the ideas! I'll try to get to this in the next couple of months (I'm usually slow at doing most anything ) and let you know how it turns out. I'd like to try the set neck since I've never done it before and I hope it will be a fun learning experience. If it doesn't work out, I'll convert it to a bolt on neck. I hadn't thought of doing that before.

[BAD RONBO, KiLLeR DWaRfS]

i've got one of them there basses ! great practice 20 fret shortscaler. i've got a badarse 1 bridge on there now, but am gonna put a rick 4000 style bridge on it soon with a couple of toasters. the rick bridge is perfect for gibson basses and fills up the area nicely. my buddy, noto76 has one on his grabber G3.

[walker]

Now that is unique! And you're right - it fills up the space nicely. First time I've seen someone use a 4001/4003 tailpiece/bridge set-up on another bass. Some folks are opposed to them being on a Rick, as I sure most have noticed.