How Did You Find The Rickenbacker Forum?

jwr2 · Post by **jwr2** » Tue Aug 31, 2004 11:47 am

I found it on the internet ... with my computer ...

mike_d · Post by **mike_d** » Wed Sep 01, 2004 10:38 am

I finally found the forums many years after I started registering my Rics through the Ric Registration page!

rickfan60 · Post by **rickfan60** » Fri Oct 29, 2004 9:31 pm

Bob Young clued me in to the forum.

ken_j · Post by **ken_j** » Sat Oct 30, 2004 6:22 am

Al Adams, also a member, E-mailed me the link.

dale_fortune · Post by **dale_fortune** » Sat Oct 30, 2004 5:52 pm

Ted The Bob Young you are refering to, is he from Southern Calif? If so how can I get in touch?

jps · Post by **jps** » Sat Oct 30, 2004 6:15 pm

Welcome Dale. I believe Bob lives in Massachusetts. I understand you used to work for Rickenbacker, true?

dale_fortune · Post by **dale_fortune** » Sat Oct 30, 2004 6:38 pm

Yes I did. From 1972 to 1975 when I opened my own Guitar shop in Tustin, not far from Electro String factory. Thanks for the Welcome and if I can be of any info help just ask I'll try to give my best info.

jps · Post by **jps** » Sat Oct 30, 2004 7:09 pm

My 4001 was built during your tenure there ('73). Some of the names on it are Raul and Greg King. Did you know them?

jps · Post by **jps** » Sat Oct 30, 2004 7:16 pm

I was imformed that LC is for Laura Clark, did you know her?

rickfan60 · Post by **rickfan60** » Sat Oct 30, 2004 7:40 pm

So the inlays are poured. I had been wondering if damaged or missing inlays could be repaired or replaced using a clear epoxy and some kind of pearlescent powder. Would this be close to the original material?

dale_fortune · Post by **dale_fortune** » Sat Oct 30, 2004 7:50 pm

I worked in the wood shop, if your bass was built in 73 then I did the top nut, neck and body binding, side dots, possibly the frets, most of the glue-up work and drilling of all the holes except pick guard holes. The names and initials inside your bass are from the finish/assembly building workers. Your bass appears to be a custom order transition model. Small poured inlays and checkered binding. By 73 Rick had phased out the checkered binding except on special orders. If you pull the T.R. cover you might find a penciled number in the cavity. Could be 1 thru 30, this will designate the number that was made that certain day. When I fitted the top nuts, I would write the same number on the nut and in the T.R. cavity. This looks like a very nice 4001.

dale_fortune · Post by **dale_fortune** » Sun Oct 31, 2004 5:39 am

Ted We used basic polyester casting resin with pearloid toner mixed in, 1st the cavity was painted gray then the resin mixture was poured in, then sand off excess to match the F.B. radius.
Clear lacquer over it(yes you can use clear fingernail polish). This will work on most Ricks.
You can also pull off the F.B. binding, use a fret saw to cut the inlays all the way accross the F.B. then make up the resin/toner mixture or get some pearloid plastic, cut it to fit the new inlay cavities, rebind the neck, touch up lacquered areas and you've got the close to vintage inlays. These are things I've done for years so I probably make it sound easier than it is.

jps · Post by **jps** » Sun Oct 31, 2004 12:04 pm

I checked the TR cavity and it is number 9; thanks so much for this information, Dale.

atomic_punk · Post by **atomic_punk** » Sun Oct 31, 2004 4:44 pm

Dale, thanks for the info on the inlay. I've always loved the old style inlays and wondered how they were done!

dale_fortune · Post by **dale_fortune** » Sun Oct 31, 2004 8:07 pm

From 1958 thru the present there have been many styles of tri-angle inlays used on Rickenbackers. From real pearl shell to white composite back to pearl shell then resin with pearl toner mixed in.
I think you can get very close by doing some test mixes with resin and pearl toner if you are trying to replace and fix your inlays, remember the inlay cavity is painted a battleship gray before the resin is poured in the cavity. If you want to do the real shell inlays search the inter net for crushed pearl or abalone shell. Some guitar material suppliers carry this, I'll post the one I get it from tomorrow, gotta look up their web page. Here's how to do it: 1 small flat cookie pan, wax the inside with household parafin wax(heavily) put a thin mixture of resin with white toner in the pan 1st, a 1/16th inch will do. Before this dries lay the crushed pearl shell in a thin layer covering the white resin. Lastly, pour clear casting resin over this to about a 1/4 inch thick. Let this dry completely.
The wax coating on the pan allows the sheet of pearl inlays to come out of the pan easily. Now the dangerous part. Cutting the shell material into tri-angle inlays. Use a jewelers saw and wear 2 micron airfilter mask. You don't want to breathe any of the pearl dust. Lapidary equipment which utilizes water is best but not necessary if you are cautious. The inlays are cut to fit each fret position, with the excess clear resin being sanded off to match the F.B. radius. Now you see why Rickenbacker phased this out. Very costly and
can be a health issue. Still with todays sythetic
materials such as mother of toilet seat pearl type
plastic, a very nice inlay can be acheived.