Yes, the narrow necks are one of the quirks of the instruments, but I'm happy to say that they don't create any problems for me!
Do let us know what you find at Rudy's Music Stop. I was there seven or eight years ago, and they're a class act.
Robert
Moderator: jingle_jangle
Thanks for the update. I have been pondering getting a 12-string saddle fitted on my Ric, but to be honest I haven't had any major intonation problems with the factory 6-saddle bridge. Did your 12-string come with the 12-string saddle bridge? BTW, I was looking at the 12-string nut on the Rickenbacker boutique http://boutique.rickenbacker.com/NUT-ST ... p_568.html (I think this is the right one for 330/360s). I may be imagining it, but the nut there appears to have the string pairs more widely spaced than on my 2002 Ric? Is this the new standard?Folkie wrote:I still haven't bitten the bullet and e-mailed Chris Clayton about the possible mod to my 360/12. First I'll have to make some precise measurements of my 330/12, since I'm using it as a prototype for the string-spacing on my 360. It should be a relatively routine job for Chris (After all, every time he installs a 12-saddle bridge, the question of string-spacing comes up.) My only worry is the cost of shipping the instrument out to New Jersey and back. But if the guitar plays like my 330, it will be worth every penny!
Robert
Simon,stsang wrote:Thanks for the update. I have been pondering getting a 12-string saddle fitted on my Ric, but to be honest I haven't had any major intonation problems with the factory 6-saddle bridge. Did your 12-string come with the 12-string saddle bridge? BTW, I was looking at the 12-string nut on the Rickenbacker boutique http://boutique.rickenbacker.com/NUT-ST ... p_568.html (I think this is the right one for 330/360s). I may be imagining it, but the nut there appears to have the string pairs more widely spaced than on my 2002 Ric? Is this the new standard?Folkie wrote:I still haven't bitten the bullet and e-mailed Chris Clayton about the possible mod to my 360/12. First I'll have to make some precise measurements of my 330/12, since I'm using it as a prototype for the string-spacing on my 360. It should be a relatively routine job for Chris (After all, every time he installs a 12-saddle bridge, the question of string-spacing comes up.) My only worry is the cost of shipping the instrument out to New Jersey and back. But if the guitar plays like my 330, it will be worth every penny!
Robert
Good morning Robert, I'm certainly no expert - perhaps someone who is more authoritative could respond? I read on the earlier thread viewtopic.php?f=13&t=402541 that Todd Bradshaw (teb) seemed to think the binding might be a factor in the different feel between 330 and 360 (and it certainly sounds plausible). If you pull the trigger on this, could you please take before and after photos and post them for future reference? All the best!Folkie wrote:I understand that the new 330's and 360's have the same nut width. Would you happen to know whether the binding on a 360/12 neck would be a factor affecting available string space?
Robert
I have to admit, I flinched a little when I read that!teb wrote:Never being one who is shy about mods if I think they'll help my playing, if I was you, I'd do an experiment and cut a new slot in the nut (and maybe the bridge) for the G octave and space it out a little bit more to see what happens. I suppose a stray slot or two would horrify some of the purists, but if you're thinking about changing them anyway, you don't have anything to lose.
Thanks, Todd. I'm a little wary of messing with the string-spacing myself, although, if I had your expertise, I wouldn't think twice about it. In general, my philosophy is to concentrate on my music and let my techs worry about setups, mods, repairs, etc. I think the last time I played that used 360/12C63 at Sam Ash clinched my decision: it had wide enough pairs to really chime out, but narrow enough ones to have comfortable finger-space between them. Close to the spacing of my 1991 330/12, though not exact. I certainly won't have this mod done without making precise measurements and without thinking things through. I appreciate your advice, as you've had more experience modifying your Rics than just about anyone here.teb wrote:Never being one who is shy about mods if I think they'll help my playing, if I was you, I'd do an experiment and cut a new slot in the nut (and maybe the bridge) for the G octave and space it out a little bit more to see what happens. I suppose a stray slot or two would horrify some of the purists, but if you're thinking about changing them anyway, you don't have anything to lose.