Order Rickenbacker Nut?

Folkie · Post by **Folkie** » Wed Dec 07, 2011 5:53 pm

I am hoping to replace the nut on my 360/12 and was unable to find an uncut replacement nut on the Rickenbacker boutique. Chris at POTR does not stock them. Any suggestions?

Folkie · Post by **Folkie** » Wed Dec 07, 2011 6:09 pm

While I'm at it, can somebody tell me what the current Rickenbacker 300 series nuts are made of? Chris Clayton said the black ones may be made of bakelite, which is hard to find. Would a graphite replacement nut suffice?

Folkie · Post by **Folkie** » Wed Dec 07, 2011 6:40 pm

Let's make it a third question, specifically for Todd Bradshaw. Todd, can you tell me what material Mark Arnquist uses when he mods the nuts of your 12-ers?

teb · Post by **teb** » Wed Dec 07, 2011 11:21 pm

The invoice from Mark says "cut and fit a new phenolic nut blank ". It looks like some sort of hard black stuff. Graphite works, I made a graphite nut for my 340/12. Graphite in the non-woven (non-carbon fiber) form is usually just graphite powder mixed with a polymer, like they use for fishing reel parts and other castings. Whenever I have leftover, mixed epoxy resin from a boat job, I dump in a bunch of graphite powder and pour it into some sort of tub or hollow form to let it harden into a block. Later on, it can be cut and machined into small bits of tough hardware. I just cut the blank out of one of these blocks and slotted it for the new nut. Works like a charm. I wouldn't hesitate to buy a graphite nut blank from one of the suppliers and use it.

Folkie · Post by **Folkie** » Thu Dec 08, 2011 11:50 am

Todd,

Thanks for the detailed advice. Unfortunately, I'm having trouble finding an uncut graphite nut of the proper width (1.63") online. Do you have any suggestions?

Robert

Folkie · Post by **Folkie** » Thu Dec 08, 2011 6:28 pm

One last question, Todd: Should I consider a bone nut? They seem very affordable and are readily available uncut.

8mileshigher · Post by **8mileshigher** » Thu Dec 08, 2011 7:48 pm

Folkie wrote: was unable to find an uncut replacement nut on the Rickenbacker boutique. Chris at POTR does not stock them. Any suggestions?

Robert, I was under the impression that the "new" 12-string nuts they supply at the Ric company boutique (Part number 03327) http://boutique.rickenbacker.com/Miscel ... 0.html#top
were the wider spacing that Ric had introduced around 2006 or so. Is not that what you were looking for ? Or did Chris Clayton indicate that part 03327 was identical string spacing, as on your existing 12er ?

stsang · Post by **stsang** » Thu Dec 08, 2011 8:01 pm

8mileshigher wrote:
Folkie wrote: was unable to find an uncut replacement nut on the Rickenbacker boutique. Chris at POTR does not stock them. Any suggestions?
Robert, I was under the impression that the "new" 12-string nuts they supply at the Ric company boutique (Part number 03327) http://boutique.rickenbacker.com/Miscel ... 0.html#top
were the wider spacing that Ric had introduced around 2006 or so. Is not that what you were looking for ? Or did Chris Clayton indicate that part 03327 was identical string spacing, as on your existing 12er ?

Here's a direct link to the part on the Boutique:
http://boutique.rickenbacker.com/NUT-ST ... p_568.html

teb · Post by **teb** » Thu Dec 08, 2011 10:52 pm

Robert, I don't know anything about bone nuts, though I imagine they would work. The idea of building a whole bunch of nuts from various materials, rigging them up and trying to figure out what difference they would make on the same 12-string guitar would be interesting, but a monster project that might not actually show much difference (except for the balsa wood nut, which might be a dud

)

The problem finding non-Rickenbacker nuts and nut blanks that will fit a Rickenbacker is usually height. You need a flat-bottomed nut that's 1/8" thick, at least one and 5/8 inches wide and 3/8" tall to account for the thick Rickenbacker fretboard. That last one is the problem. A strat nut or nut blank, for example, is the right thickness, wide enough to cut down to the proper width, but only half as tall as what you need. You could always call or e-mail graph-tech and see what they would want to cut you a couple blanks. They don't list one that's tall enough, but they claim they have a great customer service department. Considering what they charge ($12 or more for maybe fifty cents worth of epoxy, graphite powder and teflon powder) they could afford to cut one and still make their margins.

One similar thing I've always wanted to try would be making stainless steel bridge saddles for a twelve to see if the harder metal would make a difference in the sound or sustain, compared to the stock ones which seem to be aluminum or something similarly soft. Maybe some day, but it's hard to get motivated because stainless is a pain to work with unless you have really good tools and I seem to be getting awfully good sounds out of the stock saddles.

Folkie · Post by **Folkie** » Fri Dec 09, 2011 2:06 am

8mileshigher wrote:
Folkie wrote: was unable to find an uncut replacement nut on the Rickenbacker boutique. Chris at POTR does not stock them. Any suggestions?
Robert, I was under the impression that the "new" 12-string nuts they supply at the Ric company boutique (Part number 03327) http://boutique.rickenbacker.com/Miscel ... 0.html#top
were the wider spacing that Ric had introduced around 2006 or so. Is not that what you were looking for ? Or did Chris Clayton indicate that part 03327 was identical string spacing, as on your existing 12er ?

Rich,

According to Chris at POTR and Richard at the factory, parts #03327 and #03328 are identical or virtually identical to the string-spacing on my 2010 360/12. These nuts were cut after the 2005 string mod, when the factory began tightening up the pairs to allow more space between pairs. The only difference between the two is that #03328 allows for binding, so that would be the precise one on my guitar, I believe.

It's entirely natural that some confusion arises when we talk about the difference between the spacing between each low course and octave vs. the spacing between each separate pair. I hope to have cleared up some of that confusion.

Robert

8mileshigher · Post by **8mileshigher** » Fri Dec 09, 2011 1:18 pm

Folkie wrote: According to Chris at POTR and Richard at the factory, parts #03327 and #03328 are identical or virtually identical to the string-spacing on my 2010 360/12. These nuts were cut after the 2005 string mod, when the factory began tightening up the pairs to allow more space between pairs. The only difference between the two is that #03328 allows for binding, so that would be the precise one on my guitar, I believe.

It's entirely natural that some confusion arises when we talk about the difference between the spacing between each low course and octave vs. the spacing between each separate pair. I hope to have cleared up some of that confusion.

Robert

Your situation is more clear now .... I guess I was under the impression that you were seeking to remedy an older 12-string. But now recognizing that you already have the factory-mod "new" spacing nut, I guess your options are, as you are inquiring about. I hope your quest works out for you, to obtain a custom-cut nut, tailored to the specifics spacing you seek, for both the spacing between each pair as well as the individual spacing for each string within each course. Good luck.

ken_j · Post by **ken_j** » Fri Dec 09, 2011 1:59 pm

I have a graphite ungrooved nut I purchased at Carvin. Their specs put it at 5/16" high, but mine measusures 0.386" in the center and 0.367" at the ends. It appears to be molded so I would assume they are all the same. I don't know if this will help but here's the link: http://www.carvinguitars.com/products/s ... GN1&cid=42

The black Tusq graphite ungrooved nut measures 3/8" high. Part # 1868 http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Nuts,_saddl ... _Nuts.html
The white Tusq nut ungrooved nut is also 3/8" high. Part # 3554 http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Nuts,_saddl ... _Nuts.html

I have used bone in the past for both acoustic guitars and on a Rick bass with great results. A little graphite from some pencil lead added to the grooves works well too.

So if Todd's measurements are correct you have a few options off the shelf.

teb · Post by **teb** » Fri Dec 09, 2011 4:25 pm

You're not likely to have enough space between the end of the fingerboard and the TRC for any of those (at least you wouldn't on either of my tweves). They're all 3/16" thick and mine are 1/8" thick with very little extra width allowable. You could try to sand them thinner, but hand-thicknessing a tiny piece of plastic accurately is a real pain in the posterior.

Folkie · Post by **Folkie** » Fri Dec 09, 2011 6:01 pm

Rich,

Thanks for the kind words. My problems may be solved, as one of my local techs has some actual nut blanks that he purchased from Rickenbacker several years ago. If he's willing to sell me one, I'm thinking that could save me (and my other tech) a huge headache. I'll certainly keep you posted on how this project goes.

Best wishes,

Robert

Folkie · Post by **Folkie** » Fri Dec 09, 2011 6:10 pm

Thanks, Ken and Todd. I'll try to keep in mind all the specs you've laid out. I may have an easy way out of this impasse, if I can purchase Rickenbacker nut blanks from a local tech. By the way, Todd, I like your new avatar. Very McGuinn!

Robert

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