THE bass to get?

Vintage, Modern, V & C series, Fretless, Signature & Special Editions

Moderators: rickenbrother, ajish4

User avatar
Keef
Junior Member
Posts: 156
Joined: Mon Mar 12, 2012 9:13 pm

THE bass to get?

Post by Keef »

Hello All,

Soooo.... one day I would love to get an older 4001... mostly for the very cool checkerboard binding. :)
I'm not schooled in the history of Rics so I am respectfully calling upon the knowledge and wisdom of this fantastic forum.
I know there is more to old Rics than just cool looking binding, but as I mentioned I have no idea what to look for, like what years are considered the best, and what other snazzy things I should look for, or what faults to avoid... if there are any.
Money IS an object so I can't go crazy and just buy anything that pops up... this 'one day' purchase has to be made with care and insight. Any help you may feel like offering would be greatly appreciated.

Oh, I should mention my preference is for skinner/thinner necks.

At the moment I own a mid 90's (I think) v63

Thanks for your time!
User avatar
chefothefuture
Advanced Member
Posts: 1886
Joined: Sun Oct 30, 2005 6:00 am

Re: THE bass to get?

Post by chefothefuture »

OH boy, are the opinions going to fly! LOL!

For the checker bound 4001's, the 63-66 period are my favorites.
Aside from the long headstock, you get the square heal and smooth carve at the nut area.
There are many distinct yet subtle changes within this period such as horseshoe pickup bobbins, mounting plates, and G-Tuner placement.
These are skinnier necks, they're not the skinniest (I've played a '62 that was scary thin..), but the majority have a nice shallow D profile (not all though...).
This period also tends to be the most pricey due to their general rarity over the later ones.
67-8 has a thick bump extending from the headstock to just past the nut. This adds strength, but is not as graceful. Also, these got the round heal.
The treble pickup surround changed to the rectangular shape as well. The neck profiles tend to be more C shaped, and to me feel a little thicker(though there are some thin necks to be found as well....)
These are less rare and (with an exception or two...) tend to be a little less $$$$
As with all early Ricks, no two are alike, so it would be hard to make further generalizations.
Fireglo's very from Orangy to deeper reds. The 63s I've seen and the 67s were on the lighter side, but I am sure there are many dark ones from those years...

Price being an issue, the 72-73s are the most affordable and abundant. You loose features like the long headstock, one piece neck, and horseshoe pickup(well this was officially changed in 68 though a very few were installed on later basses...), but you gain cool things like Grover Contour Slimline Tuners, and the Shedua "skunk stripe" neck has a nice tone and look. The necks are a little thicker, but very nice.

So, that's one opinion. You'll likely get more.... :lol:
User avatar
opticnerve
Advanced Member
Posts: 1686
Joined: Thu Feb 15, 2007 6:00 am

Re: THE bass to get?

Post by opticnerve »

Hey John,

Nice breakdown. One thing though, I wouldn't lump '67s with '68s when considering rarity.

I've seen quite a few '68s & only a handful of '67s.

And from what I've seen, '64 Deluxes are more plentiful than '65-'67.
Last edited by opticnerve on Tue Mar 20, 2012 12:45 pm, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
badeggs
Intermediate Member
Posts: 865
Joined: Tue Jul 24, 2007 5:04 am

Re: THE bass to get?

Post by badeggs »

Go for the sweet spot: 1969-1971.

Thin necks, older features (one-piece neck, walnut headstock wings, crushed inlays, checkerboard, aluminum tailpiece, flat (or possibly wavy) Grovers, screw-top Hi-Gain/Toaster pickups), and yet still "reasonably" priced, at least compared to a '65 with a horseshoe, etc.

The only problem is the factory had low production numbers in those years, so they're hard to find. But if you spot one...grab it!
BodyFront.JPG
My '71 Burgundy...it's beyond awesome. These years saw weird features, they were experimenting a bit: You'll see 21-fret 4001s, 360s with bound headstocks, the oddball "in-between length" pickguard on my bass here...neat stuff!

One thing to note: Rick never had a "down" period, and pretty much any instrument from any time will be a high-quality piece.
User avatar
woodyng
Senior Member
Posts: 4478
Joined: Thu Jan 11, 2007 11:11 am

Re: THE bass to get?

Post by woodyng »

If not having the CB binding isn't a deal breaker,then later 70's 4000/4001's with the 3 piece necks are consistently more affordable good instruments. My 74 4000 has a real nice,slim neck,and the higain pickup sounds great.
User avatar
badeggs
Intermediate Member
Posts: 865
Joined: Tue Jul 24, 2007 5:04 am

Re: THE bass to get?

Post by badeggs »

woodyng wrote:My 74 4000 has a real nice, slim neck
Great point, Woody. Others on here have mentioned 74s in conjunction with great necks. Personally I once owned a 74 4001 MG with red dots that had the perfect neck, never found its equal.

I always wondered if they just had some neck-shaping genius working there that year, but 74s seem to get very high marks in this department.
User avatar
Keef
Junior Member
Posts: 156
Joined: Mon Mar 12, 2012 9:13 pm

Re: THE bass to get?

Post by Keef »

Wow, that's a lot of great information. Thank you everyone!
If i'm going to make the plunge, it's going to have to have checkerboard binding. Did that end in 73?
The crushed inlays would be a nice touch too... hmmm. Nice tip on the 74 necks too. Thanks.
Well I have a lot of information to help with my hunt. Thank you. I'm not sure when I can pull the trigger, but when I do I feel like I can make an educated purchase now. Thanks agian everyone.
User avatar
badeggs
Intermediate Member
Posts: 865
Joined: Tue Jul 24, 2007 5:04 am

Re: THE bass to get?

Post by badeggs »

You got it, brother!

Checkerboard was phased out July/August of 73, crushed inlays were basically February though a few March 73s have 'em. The inlays stayed full-width, but made of a pearlescent resin (by the by, these are beautiful inlays and a very short-lived style) until May/June, when they then started cutting that material to form non-full-width inlays. Shortly thereafter (August 73 maybe?) the poured inlays appeared, which remained until 2008 when they went back to full-width, cut material again.

This, along with reintroducing walnut headstock wings and lengthening the 'stock, means new 4001s are looking more and more like the old ones!
User avatar
Seans
Intermediate Member
Posts: 674
Joined: Sun Jan 17, 2010 6:10 am

Re: THE bass to get?

Post by Seans »

badeggs wrote:Go for the sweet spot: 1969-1971.

Thin necks, older features (one-piece neck, walnut headstock wings, crushed inlays, checkerboard, aluminum tailpiece, flat (or possibly wavy) Grovers, screw-top Hi-Gain/Toaster pickups), and yet still "reasonably" priced, at least compared to a '65 with a horseshoe, etc.

The only problem is the factory had low production numbers in those years, so they're hard to find. But if you spot one...grab it!
BodyFront.JPG
My '71 Burgundy...it's beyond awesome. These years saw weird features, they were experimenting a bit: You'll see 21-fret 4001s, 360s with bound headstocks, the oddball "in-between length" pickguard on my bass here...neat stuff!

One thing to note: Rick never had a "down" period, and pretty much any instrument from any time will be a high-quality piece.
+1, really great period. I'm very lucky to own an early 72, it's got the lot, Walnut wings, one piece neck, flat Grovers etc etc and the neck is super thin although a tiny bit wider than my Red Dot 74, which I have to say has just the best neck I have ever played.
User avatar
badeggs
Intermediate Member
Posts: 865
Joined: Tue Jul 24, 2007 5:04 am

Re: THE bass to get?

Post by badeggs »

Seans wrote:Red Dot 74
+1000! They just rule so much. My old MG...

I made this terrible MSPaint drawing one time to explain it in another thread. The neck had a perfect, shallow 'D' profile if you looked at it. But when you played it, it felt like this:
Image
Like it was totally flat in the middle, with very very faint edges to where the curve met the flat part. Your thumb fit this flat part perfectly, and if you tried you could barely detect the edge between the flat and the curve. But you couldn't see it if you looked at the neck, and believe me I tried! Just amazing craftsmanship. I've never played any bass with a neck quite like that.

It was traded to fund a '73 JG and it was a good move, but I still regret letting it go, because of that neck (and the red dots of course)...
User avatar
chefothefuture
Advanced Member
Posts: 1886
Joined: Sun Oct 30, 2005 6:00 am

Re: THE bass to get?

Post by chefothefuture »

opticnerve wrote:Hey John,

Nice breakdown. One thing though, I wouldn't lump '67s with '68s when considering rarity.

I've seen quite a few '68s & only a handful of '67s.

And from what I've seen, '64 Deluxes are more plentiful than '65-'67.
Right you are on the issue of rarity. My lumping the 67-68s was more of features
in wood working. The enlarging of the neck at the nut to make the area stronger,
and the rounded heal. Those sorts of things.
The square heal and neck carve at the nut on the pre-67's add value in most cases.
That was my main point, but it may have got unclear....
teeder
Senior Member
Posts: 6396
Joined: Wed Apr 14, 2004 5:00 am

Re: THE bass to get?

Post by teeder »

Relatively speaking, the '72 - early '73's are your best value compared to the '60's basses. You get most of the cool features, plus I believe the skunk stripe necks tend to be more stable and allow more flexibility as to what strings you can use. That said, if money was no object, I'd be looking for a RM1999! :mrgreen:

"60's basses do go well with a nice V63 though!

Image
User avatar
wints
Veteran RRF member
Posts: 6481
Joined: Sun Oct 07, 2001 11:21 am

Re: THE bass to get?

Post by wints »

What Kev said...

If $$$ is no object then you go 60's. But you'll have to pay to find a good clean example. Far more choice from 72 and early '73, and far less $$. Go for Fireglo, BG, or a nice ambered MG...
User avatar
Keef
Junior Member
Posts: 156
Joined: Mon Mar 12, 2012 9:13 pm

Re: THE bass to get?

Post by Keef »

Thanks again everyone. I appreciate the neck description and image. I've played some old Rics and been pleasantly surprised by the comfy necks.

I wish money wasn't an object... I would LOVE a 60's Ric, in a lovely aged Fireglo. They are just so beautiful.

What year did the crushed inlays end? Aside from checkerboard binding, the old style inlays seem a must have.

Everyone has been so helpful... I really appreciate it. Thanks for posting pictures of your Rics. I love seeing these great old basses. Is there any chance someone could post pics of the back of the neck (behind the nut) on some different years? There have been some great descriptions on the differences but I'm not sure I understand what they would look like. I get the heel of the neck thing since my v63 has the square heel.
Thanks again.

Regarding the RM 1999 bass.... is that kind of like a 4001S? Sorry I don't know the difference :oops:
Last edited by Keef on Wed Mar 21, 2012 10:12 pm, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
jps
RRF Consultant
Posts: 37496
Joined: Wed Feb 12, 2003 6:00 am

Re: THE bass to get?

Post by jps »

RM1999 is a bit of a misnomer, Rose-Morris was the importer of the bass and gave it their own catalog number of 1999, hence, we call it a RM1999. It is the same as a 4001S.
Post Reply

Return to “Rickenbacker Basses: by Joey Vasco & Tony Cabibe”