Plexiglass TRC questions
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- RonLovesRic12strings
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Plexiglass TRC questions
Do six-string vintage style plexiglas TRC 's from the 1960's vary in size/shape from model to model or does "one-fit-all" apply? Are the three screw holes in the same place for every Rick model. Will a 400 or 600 series plexiglas TRC fit a 300 series Rick, specifically a 365 from 1968 ?
Re: Plexiglass TRC questions
From my experience, the mounting holes from nearly all standard-length plexi TRCs from 1963-1973 fit the same, and that includes 12-string models.
That means that the early Capri-era gold TRCs do not fit the same footprint as the white plexi TRCs.
The screenprinted "Rickenbacker" and "Made in USA" moved all over the place, though with some black text even touching the edges of the TRC in '66-'68.
Plus (this should go without saying), reissue TRCs do NOT fit vintage models, they are longer. If you cut about 1/8" off the bottom of the reissue TRC and re-drill the mounting holes, it will fit, though the screenprinting will be slightly lower.
That means that the early Capri-era gold TRCs do not fit the same footprint as the white plexi TRCs.
The screenprinted "Rickenbacker" and "Made in USA" moved all over the place, though with some black text even touching the edges of the TRC in '66-'68.
Plus (this should go without saying), reissue TRCs do NOT fit vintage models, they are longer. If you cut about 1/8" off the bottom of the reissue TRC and re-drill the mounting holes, it will fit, though the screenprinting will be slightly lower.
- jingle_jangle
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Re: Plexiglass TRC questions
I have a routing pattern that reshapes the dagger shape on later nameplates to the smaller, vintage, footprint. I've also got one for the old 12 string shape. The new plates shorten to just slightly shy of the newer screw hole at the tip. Then the screw hole is re drilled.
Re: Plexiglass TRC questions
jingle_jangle wrote:I have a routing pattern that reshapes the dagger shape on later nameplates to the smaller, vintage, footprint. I've also got one for the old 12 string shape. The new plates shorten to just slightly shy of the newer screw hole at the tip. Then the screw hole is re drilled.
Cool!
The screenprinting on the reissues is pretty close to vintage style (only "Made in USA" is different from vintage), and if they can be resized to the vintage spec, that's great.
My technique of cutting the bottom down is somewhat cruder than a proper template, but it works okay.

Re: Plexiglass TRC questions
Would it be a belt sander per chance?collin wrote:jingle_jangle wrote:I have a routing pattern that reshapes the dagger shape on later nameplates to the smaller, vintage, footprint. I've also got one for the old 12 string shape. The new plates shorten to just slightly shy of the newer screw hole at the tip. Then the screw hole is re drilled.
Cool!
The screenprinting on the reissues is pretty close to vintage style (only "Made in USA" is different from vintage), and if they can be resized to the vintage spec, that's great.
My technique of cutting the bottom down is somewhat cruder than a proper template, but it works okay.
I've had many pleasant experiences shaping various things (music related and non music related) by flipping a belt sander upsidedown and working with it.
Re: Plexiglass TRC questions
Belt sander is not the ideal tool to cut 1/8" off the bottom of a TRC. In addition to the possibility of it grabbing the TRC and hurling it across the room (or cracking it), it could get hot, melting the plastic.
That might be a better tool for shaping the sides, should you need to.
I simply rigged up a guide and cut the bottom section off with a dremel tool (with cutting wheel). Works great, and much easier to control. A proper router, like Paul mentioned) would be the best method.
That might be a better tool for shaping the sides, should you need to.
I simply rigged up a guide and cut the bottom section off with a dremel tool (with cutting wheel). Works great, and much easier to control. A proper router, like Paul mentioned) would be the best method.
Re: Plexiglass TRC questions
A Dremmel with a cutoff wheel is my preferred method also. After that, I use the drum sander attachment to do the final shaping, followed by a sanding session on all the edges with 240 grit and polishing compound. The object is for the edges to look like glass.
Re: Plexiglass TRC questions
Okay, I understand, I thought you were talking about the sides, so the bottom is the part that usually inhibits the fitting of RI TRC's to vintage gear?collin wrote:Belt sander is not the ideal tool to cut 1/8" off the bottom of a TRC. In addition to the possibility of it grabbing the TRC and hurling it across the room (or cracking it), it could get hot, melting the plastic.
That might be a better tool for shaping the sides, should you need to.
I simply rigged up a guide and cut the bottom section off with a dremel tool (with cutting wheel). Works great, and much easier to control. A proper router, like Paul mentioned) would be the best method.
Re: Plexiglass TRC questions
The RI TRCs are longer, so if you cut enough from the flat bottom such that the top hole fits right onto the too headstock hole of a vintage Rick, you simply re-drill the two bottom TRC holes and it bolts right on.
The text will be slightly off from "correct" position, but it really looks fine.
The text will be slightly off from "correct" position, but it really looks fine.