No contact spray, that won't fix the problem. You need to very lightly sand the contacts with something like emory cloth, and using a needlenose pliers, re-bend the metal tabs that the plastic barrel makes contact with to hold the bat in place.Tommy wrote:Yes, I am experiencing it.eljayski wrote: anyone else experiencing this problem?
My 20 year old 360/12 has a dodgey switch. It sputters, it cuts out, I have to shake it a bit until it gets the pickups I selected going. It's been doing that for a few years. I am hoping all that is required to fix is some contact spray.
low-quality toggle switches on rics?
Moderators: rickenbrother, ajish4
Re: low-quality toggle switches on rics?
Re: low-quality toggle switches on rics?
I would strongly advise against using any abrasive and also bending tabs at all, or until you have tried this.....jps wrote:No contact spray, that won't fix the problem. You need to very lightly sand the contacts with something like emory cloth, and using a needlenose pliers, re-bend the metal tabs that the plastic barrel makes contact with to hold the bat in place.Tommy wrote:Yes, I am experiencing it.eljayski wrote: anyone else experiencing this problem?
My 20 year old 360/12 has a dodgey switch. It sputters, it cuts out, I have to shake it a bit until it gets the pickups I selected going. It's been doing that for a few years. I am hoping all that is required to fix is some contact spray.
Use a credit card and a small piece of fine cotton (bedsheet), wrap the cotton over one edge of the card, apply dab both sides of the cloth with Deoxit or Carbon Tet, slide the card in between a pair of contacts and polish. For real corrosion use some metal polish first then finish with Deoxit.
Re: low-quality toggle switches on rics?
Thanks, Seanss and jps, for both pieces of advice.
I will eventually get around to working on that switch.
I will eventually get around to working on that switch.
Re: low-quality toggle switches on rics?
Here's a pic after a tiny dab of chrome polish.....
Re: low-quality toggle switches on rics?
Is it just me or did that picture show a pickup switch that looks older than a 2010? For comparison, here's a pic of my 2002 360/12 (with factory wiring):Seans wrote:Here's a pic after a tiny dab of chrome polish.....
2010 360/12c63 FG
2002 360/12 MG (mod with 7.4K scatterwound toasters, push/pull switch for 0.0047uF bridge cap)
2002 360/12 MG (mod with 7.4K scatterwound toasters, push/pull switch for 0.0047uF bridge cap)
Re: low-quality toggle switches on rics?
That's a 1991, what made you think it's a 2010. Only difference I can see on yours is a dedicated earth lug.stsang wrote:Is it just me or did that picture show a pickup switch that looks older than a 2010? For comparison, here's a pic of my 2002 360/12 (with factory wiring):Seans wrote:Here's a pic after a tiny dab of chrome polish.....
Re: low-quality toggle switches on rics?
I'll think you'll find quite a few Asian sourced switches in most other brands these days, however, we proudly only use Switchcraft components out of Chicago.collin wrote:I think they all get switches from the same company (switchcraft), who has made them for decades. Gibson, Rickenbacker, Fender, Gretsch...all of em.
Keep them clean, lubed, and properly adjusted . . . and they'll last a lifetime, just as they did in the original telephone operator consoles, for which they were developed.
Re: low-quality toggle switches on rics?
My mistake, I mixed up your photo with what the initial poster of this topic said:Seans wrote:That's a 1991, what made you think it's a 2010. Only difference I can see on yours is a dedicated earth lug.
eljayski wrote:both purchased in 2010; i'm original owner; both in pristine condition, never leave the house.
2010 360/12c63 FG
2002 360/12 MG (mod with 7.4K scatterwound toasters, push/pull switch for 0.0047uF bridge cap)
2002 360/12 MG (mod with 7.4K scatterwound toasters, push/pull switch for 0.0047uF bridge cap)
Re: low-quality toggle switches on rics?
Ahh, easily done.
I don't think that the Switchcraft design has changed at all for decades, until of course the intro of the earth lug.
I don't think that the Switchcraft design has changed at all for decades, until of course the intro of the earth lug.
Re: low-quality toggle switches on rics?
On the other hand, the switch in my 32 year-old Rickenbacker has never been adjusted, cleaned, or lubed, and still works flawlessly and without any noise.johnhall wrote:Keep them clean, lubed, and properly adjusted . . . and they'll last a lifetime, just as they did in the original telephone operator consoles, for which they were developed.
Re: low-quality toggle switches on rics?
Same with my '76, 36 years and still works perfectly...Grey wrote:On the other hand, the switch in my 32 year-old Rickenbacker has never been adjusted, cleaned, or lubed, and still works flawlessly and without any noise.johnhall wrote:Keep them clean, lubed, and properly adjusted . . . and they'll last a lifetime, just as they did in the original telephone operator consoles, for which they were developed.
I have NO idea what to do with those skinny stringed things... I'm just a bass player...
Re: low-quality toggle switches on rics?
Never had any issues with the switches on my 1991 330/12 or my 2010 360/12 either!
Re: low-quality toggle switches on rics?
so I don't need to worry about the old tremolo effect of open chord + switch jiggling wearing this switch out?
Re: low-quality toggle switches on rics?
The Switchcraft switches may look a bit antiquated, but they're very solidly built and when something does go wrong everything is right out in the open, so it's easy to identify and fix the problem. Sometimes simpler is just better.
Re: low-quality toggle switches on rics?
It sounds more like jack issues with the ROS finger getting a bit of corrosion in it rather than the switches. But if it is the switches, Mr. JH has commented on cleaning the contacts with a small piece of a pencil eraser and gently bending with needle nose pliers the contacts or stops that don't want to stay in a particular position.
