The screwed mute
Moderators: rickenbrother, ajish4
The screwed mute
I was changing strings on my 4001V63, turned it over, and out dropped the upper screw or "strap bolt" which is used to raise and lower the foam mute. The spring appears to be lost inside the bowels of the tailpiece and the threads of the bolt don't bite into anything. I don't use the thing but would rather not leave an empty hole; do I need to take the tailpiece off to put the thing back together or is there an easier way?
Thanks, Lindsay
Thanks, Lindsay
If your strings are off, just unscrew the tailpiece and put it all back together. Itll take about 3 mins!
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Unless you get really lucky and catch the mute plate with the screw, taking it off is about the only way to do it. Lay the bass out on a flat surface with a towel or foam pads underneath. Lay a clean towel around the tailpiece to protect the body in case you drop the screwdriver or tailpiece. Take my word for it, the towel makes sense. 
This happens to me from time to time on my '01 fireglow 4003. It seems that the way I manipulate my picking hand, (I generally use a pick), gradually unscrews the the bridge mute screw.
I check it from time to time and tighten it, but every once in a while it falls out and I have to tear the bridge apart to repair it.
I check it from time to time and tighten it, but every once in a while it falls out and I have to tear the bridge apart to repair it.
"Knowledge is Power"
Lindsay,
Taking the tailpiece off the body and rescrew the bolt and spring is probably the only way to do it. The whole procedure, including loosening the strings and tuning up, won't last more than 10 minutes, I assure you. Oh yeah, take Ted's words for using lots of towel and cloths to protect the finish.
Before doing it, how about finding thin flat hex nuts of the proper size, engage them to the bolt's thread ends (after reassembling the mute plate to the bolt of course) and then apply a little super glue or paint to the contacts where the end of the bolts protrude the nuts. The nuts act as "stoppers" now and you'll never have the problem again.
Taking the tailpiece off the body and rescrew the bolt and spring is probably the only way to do it. The whole procedure, including loosening the strings and tuning up, won't last more than 10 minutes, I assure you. Oh yeah, take Ted's words for using lots of towel and cloths to protect the finish.
Before doing it, how about finding thin flat hex nuts of the proper size, engage them to the bolt's thread ends (after reassembling the mute plate to the bolt of course) and then apply a little super glue or paint to the contacts where the end of the bolts protrude the nuts. The nuts act as "stoppers" now and you'll never have the problem again.

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jwr2
those darn mute screws are always falling out ... another reason I don't like mechanical mutes ...
I say remove the whole mute assemble and just friction fit a mute pad in the hole and then you won't have to deal with the mute screws ...
sometimes those mute screws fall off in a gig ... then you have to go searching the grungy floor of a bar to find them ...
I say remove the whole mute assemble and just friction fit a mute pad in the hole and then you won't have to deal with the mute screws ...
sometimes those mute screws fall off in a gig ... then you have to go searching the grungy floor of a bar to find them ...
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