Ready to start on the Wreckenbacker

[Kopfjaeger]

We joke, but I'm betting his deep cut hurts more today then it did when it happened. No fun.

Damn, you got that right lol. Luckily though, I managed to not bleed on the guitar...

Good thing or you'd have to have it finished in Fireglo!!

Sepp

[cjj]

Typically, pickguards are made of acrylic, though I think the original B-W-B-W-B multi layered ones on the 4002 were ABS. The "old-type" binding is celluloid, and I've heard a lot of the newer stuff is ABS.

As for whether they'll stick to one another, I'm sure, with the right type of glue, it would be possible...

CJ,

I'm told bakelite was the center core. Whatever it is it is rigid and a grey/black/brown color. My original 4002 pickguard makes the reproduction one on the Walnut 4002 look and feel inferior. That's why I really want to use the original one even though it is not perfect because of the repairs.

Oh btw, real nice job on this project!! I'd like to be a bit more active in my next project and you've given me some great pointers here!!

Sepp

Yeah, bakelite. That's what I was thinking. I've never seen one in person...

Anyway, I'm with johnallg, it may be a bit too much having all that CB, and I'm a big fan of the stuff too...

[basshead]

I'll have a go at photoshopping something later and see how it looks...

[Wiker]

Yes, this is a great and inspiring tread. CB looks great. Now I almost want to refinish my own Walnut. Maybe next year.

Did you manage to find vinyl sealer, or use the PPG finish as a sealer . . .
For my refinish I’m going with Glasurit, a 2k automotive similar to PPG. The recommended mix for this Glasurit clear is with 10% reduser.
When I previously finished the fret board I sanded it with 320 paper, and added 20% reducer (double of what is recommended so I thought that would be enough). Recently discovered it didn’t actually stick that well after all, and with a chisel bladed knife it was not that hard to peel of the finish in one piece between each fret.
So, now I’ve done some adhesion tests on a piece of maple.
First of all, with the Glasurit I have to add much more reducer - 100% seems to work well.
Maple is a very non-porous wood, so sand with no finer than 220 grit. 120 grit even better - it won’t show anyway.
Also, the thinner the coat the better it seems to stick, so first sealing coat very thin. Then some more coats before sanding.

Just though I’d mention it.

[basshead]

Yes, this is a great and inspiring tread. CB looks great. Now I almost want to refinish my own Walnut. Maybe next year.

Thanks mate. I'm very happy with the way it's turning out so far. I've made a few little mistakes but nothing that wasn't fixable

Did you manage to find vinyl sealer, or use the PPG finish as a sealer . . .

Maple is a very non-porous wood, so sand with no finer than 220 grit. 120 grit even better - it won’t show anyway.
Also, the thinner the coat the better it seems to stick, so first sealing coat very thin. Then some more coats before sanding.

Just though I’d mention it.

No, I wasn't able to get any vinyl sealer so will have to use PPG clear that Paul mentioned in a previous thread of mine somewhere. I'll put a few very light, thin coats on at first then slowly build it up. As soon as I have the nick binding all sanded down, I'll be ready to clear it.

[basshead]

I've nearly finished the neck binding. Got the side markers in yesterday...

[cjj]

That's coming together nicely!

[basshead]

Yeah, it's getting there. I really only have to level the frets and tidy up the fret ends and it'll be ready for paint...

[8mileshigher]

That's coming together nicely!

+1 ---- this is a real good restoration project to watch unfold.

[basshead]

Thanks Rich

I drilled the holes for the bridge yesterday after plugging the old holes that placed the bridge noticeably off center. I had measured and marked where the new holes should be and checked several times to ensure the new holes would be square with the old holes. I drilled the holes and dropped the bridge in and everything lined up nicely except there was a slight gap visible between the front edge of the bridge and the front edge of the bridge cavity. I screwed the bridge down and the gap was still visible.

I've gone back through my photo's and I must have removed too much material from the front wall of the bridge cavity when I routed out the repair plug I put in.

DAMN

How accurate would the bridges have been put on in 1977? Could I get away with moving the bridge forward by one millimeter? I'm sure I'd still have enough adjustment in the saddles to ensure correct intonation if I moved the bridge forward 1mm.

Your thoughts please guys?

And yes, lol, I know I should dropped the bridge in before I drilled the holes *facepalm*

[johnallg]

If you could still have good intonation range, I don't think 1 mm would be noticeable. I just looked at a rule and 1 mm is really small.

[jps]

I just looked at a rule and 1 mm is really small.

Yeah, about the size of a common SMT resistor or capacitor!

[johnallg]

I just looked at a rule and 1 mm is really small.

Yeah, about the size of a common SMT resistor or capacitor!

Smaller than that.

[basshead]

Yes, it doesn't have to come forward much at all. I'll line it all up today and take some pics...

[cjj]

I just looked at a rule and 1 mm is really small.

Yeah, about the size of a common SMT resistor or capacitor!

Smaller than that.

Oh, I dunno, we used to use a lot of 0402 size parts, which are 1.00mm x 0.5mm. We use a lot of 0201 size resistors these days, which are 0.60mm x 0.30mm...