360 12 Stringing tips

[David Watts]

The whole thing takes me about 15 minutes.

Changed strings on my 620/12 last month. It almost took me 2 hours !
It's probably why i only change them once in a year.
I put Ricky Sounds strings 10/42.
"Compressed Round Wound strings from the same factory which produced the originals we have all grown used to, but no longer available from Rickenbacker.
http://www.rickysounds.co.uk/Strings.html
I like them.

I've also noticed that a tuning peg is becoming very very hard to turn. It's a Schaller mini, the 1st E. Is there something i can do or will i have to change it ?

[jps]

I've also noticed that a tuning peg is becoming very very hard to turn. It's a Schaller mini, the 1st E. Is there something i can do or will i have to change it ?

Schallers should have a tension screw at the end of the button; try loosening it a bit and see if that helps.

[David Watts]

I've also noticed that a tuning peg is becoming very very hard to turn. It's a Schaller mini, the 1st E. Is there something i can do or will i have to change it ?

Schallers should have a tension screw at the end of the button; try loosening it a bit and see if that helps.

Thanks Jeffrey. I've done that. It's better but still hard to turn.
Maybe i should try to follow the instructions given by Schaller on their FAQ, if only i could understand what they mean more precisely.

"We recommend the following procedure:

Change the mounting screw of the button.
Check the plastic or wave washer at the button for wear and renew if required.
With the machine heads closed, carefully oil with light precision mechanics oil at the shaft or gears, with the machine heads open, carefully oil the mechanical parts."

Maybe because of my bad technical english skills it's not very clear for me.

[jps]

Maybe i should try to follow the instructions given by Schaller on their FAQ, if only i could understand what they mean more precisely.

"We recommend the following procedure:

Change the mounting screw of the button.
Check the plastic or wave washer at the button for wear and renew if required.
With the machine heads closed, carefully oil with light precision mechanics oil at the shaft or gears, with the machine heads open, carefully oil the mechanical parts."

Maybe because of my bad technical english skills it's not very clear for me.

No, that is just German translated to English!

Did the tuning key work smoothly when new? If you can, remove the tuning key from the guitar and see if it turns easily or not. Maybe it is binding in the bushing? These are the enclosed, sealed Schaller, correct? If so, the oiling instructions refers to the key shaft where the button attaches to it, and the base of the post where it meets the body of the tuning key. You would have to remove the tuning key do get to the latter part.

[David Watts]

That way i think i understand better. Thanks for your translation.
Yes the key worked smoothly before and it 's an enclosed sealed Schaller, the same as on my 330 .
The problem is rather recent.
I'll try to manage it next time i'll change strings, which could not be exactly tomorrow.
But thank you again for that.

[jps]

You very welcome! I am glad that my Germlish® to American helped you!

[berek]

AmI the only one that worries about the way the higher octave strings that have to reach to the "recessed" in-the-headstock tuners, break over the edge of the headstock? Is this why there is the plastic "cover" on the headstock?

[loopy reed]

I do the strings in the slots of the headstock first, they're the most difficult. I cut to length and kink them before I put them in. That way I can tune up with one hand and keep tension on the other without it slipping. Then I do the outside strings. I've seen some people put all the strings in the R tailpiece and cover it with a piece of electrical tape to hold them in place while you're installing them. Pretty common tip and it works well, although I don't always do that.