Teething Troubles With 4001

[lefty_sean]

I'm trying to spruce up my recently acquired '80 4001. This is the first Ric I have ever owned. The most immediate issue were 2 of the cog screws in the tuners were not original. They were smaller and had been jammed in with little bits of plastic. I'm lucky that this did not damage the thread in the tuner shafts.

This is how they were..



I called up Rosetti (UK Ric distributers) and they were very helpful in ordering me 2 screws and washers from RIC in the States. A month later they turned up, and I went to fit them yesterday. And guess what? Yes, they're the wrong size.

Original on left...



So I'm back on the phone to Rosetti, and we'll see what happens. Anyone like to hazard a guess as to the size of the original screw, or any specialist fastening supplier who may be able to supply me?

Anyway, that was the first thing. While doing this I noticed the surround of the bridge pup was standing slightly proud on the bridge side under the E string. I thought maybe a wire had jammed underneath, so I removed the four screws holding surround in place and removed it. All seemed fine with wire-age, but then I noticed additional screw holes (next to the originals) for the surround that looked fresh.

I remember the seller saying that he had put on a Seymour Duncan pup, that has its own surround. In fact he sent me a picture..



Clearly the original screw holes did not locate to the new plate, so they put some extras in, none of which can be seen as it's all hidden under the surround. The seller said the SD pup had made no difference and the original had been put back by a luthier.

What has happened is the screw in the new hole under the E string was tight and either the seller or his top luthier had managed to twist the head off the shaft and breaking it. Now the headless shaft is just poking up enough to prevent the surround sitting flush. Plus they screwed the original surround down tightly, that has put a small dint in it from the screw below.

Only a tiny bit of the screw is sticking up, and its so thin, it's like a pin.

I can take some peoples attitude towards Rics (in the UK) here on the chin. But here's one that has had a c0ck drawn on it by a cack-handed idiot.

I spoke to my own chap yesterday, and he suggests drilling down next to it, and getting it out that way. Then plugging the hole with a bit of maple. All of it will be hidden by the surround, but none the less

Sorry, I've got no pics of this, but any suggestions on how to remove a screw not much thicker than a darning needle, that is embedded in maple with a tiny bit sticking out would be welcome.

[rikk]

I would try to drill it out that is if I could not grab it with needle nose pliers.

[Slacker]

Heya! I used to be a tech and we used to come across the ol' headless screw stuck in the wood problem fairly often. A few things you can do (if there isn't enough of the screw sticking out for you to grab it with pliers):

Protect the are around the hole with masking tape to prevent accidental scratches. Using something hard and sharp, cut a slot into the top of the screw. Start slowly and deliberately, and if you keep at it, you'll eventually cut a slot deep enough to fit a screwdriver in. Then, it's a matter of (slowly and deliberately, again) turning that sucker enough for you to grab it with pliers and go the rest of the way.

Another option is to dig around the screw. Again, using something small and pointy, trace the contour of the screw in the wood, so that you're digging a little moat around it. You need to keep it right against the screw, though, essentially just widening the hole around it. Take your smallest needle-nose pliers (just to avoid having to dig too wide), reach in and unscrew.

These methods sound kinda crazy, and although they're time-consuming and require patience and a steady hand, I promise they work. There are times they won't work, though, in which case you can just drill. I just don't recommend it as a first resort, since drilling on top of metal can sometimes go wrong and cause more damage if the bit slips.

Good luck and sweet looking bass! I just got myself an Azureglo 4001 too

[lefty_sean]

Thanks for the advice. The bass is going to a luthier, as I'm not wanting to bodge things anymore than it has been already. There is not enough screw sticking up to grab with pliers, and it's too thin to cut a groove into or to accurately drill out.
The plan is to drill a small hole next to it and work it out this way. The saving grace will be all this will be hidden by the pick-up surround.

I had a call from Rosetti yesterday regarding the tuner cog screws. They say RIC cannot supply them, but have recommended they contact Schaller. So we'll see what comes up.

In the meantime, here's a pic of her just after she came into my possession, and before I found the various screw-bodges. The neck on her is beautiful and I can't wait to try it out with the band. It was strung with horrible Roto stainless rounds, but the plan is to put on some TI Jazz flats.

[spongebob]

Lovely bass! I recognise it from Basschat!

I was tempted when I saw it for sale - it was the distance that put me off bidding. Sellers description was immaculate when I contacted him last year through the site, pretty mint - obviously a few things he failed to mention.....!

I'm sure once your Luthier gets going it'll come out like a dream, sounds like it's very nearly there. I love AG.

I suppose it's the downside of vintage basses - you never quite know what's it's been through in the previous how-many years.

Keep us posted!

[geofio]

lucky escape for me , i nearly purchased that bass myself. good luck.

[johnallg]

Sean, another option for the tuner screws would be to take a correct one out and to a hardware store that sells screws and try and find one, or at least identify the size/threading.

[lefty_sean]

I've done exactly that, and the size is 12UNC. They didn't have any the same in stock, but they did have some black ones with a hex bolt head. So at least I can get things up and running while I wait to see what Schaller have to offer. I've also found some on ebay, so things are looking up. The shop I went to was a specialist engineering fastner supplier, and they tell me 12 UNC is a very rare size in the UK.

[Billy Apple]

I've had comms from Rosetti, they have contacted Schaller, and Schaller are going to supply the right cog screws, so all is right with the world. I should have them in a couple of weeks. The bass is currently with a luthier taking the broken screw out and checking over the wiring and pots. I've bought a set of TI flats, mainly because of recommendations here. Just can't wait to give them a run out.

BTW. This thread was originally posted with the user name lefty_sean, which was a temporary account the admins gave me. Now my 'Billy Apple' account has come thru, as some guys will know me from the UK. But, pleased to meet you all, Hello, I'm Sean

[Slacker]

Glad it's all getting sorted out! Too bad about the unexpected troubles, though. Still, after all's said and done, if you love the bass it was all worth it!

Regarding string choice, though, I personally use Rotosound round wounds (finger-killers) and I love them. I love a good, bright sound that I can tone down if I want to. I should read some threads about flatwounds, though, just to see what all the buzz is all about.

[Billy Apple]

Glad it's all getting sorted out! Too bad about the unexpected troubles, though. Still, after all's said and done, if you love the bass it was all worth it!

Regarding string choice, though, I personally use Rotosound round wounds (finger-killers) and I love them. I love a good, bright sound that I can tone down if I want to. I should read some threads about flatwounds, though, just to see what all the buzz is all about.

From being a kid, all I used to use were Roto rounds, but now a days I cant stick stainless rounds (cheese graters!) or the high tension of Roto's. Also the Roto's on my 4001 had started to bite the frets and I want to knock that on the head. I'm taking a chance with the TI's as I've never used them before. I've got some La Bella's on my Coronado and they are beautiful to play, just a lovely easy feel. We'll see.

[johnallg]

Glad it's all getting sorted out! Too bad about the unexpected troubles, though. Still, after all's said and done, if you love the bass it was all worth it!

Regarding string choice, though, I personally use Rotosound round wounds (finger-killers) and I love them. I love a good, bright sound that I can tone down if I want to. I should read some threads about flatwounds, though, just to see what all the buzz is all about.

No string buzz with flats, unless the action is too low!

[Billy Apple]

Finally got this back from the luthier. The old screw has been drilled out, plugged and painted blue. The gear tuner screws never arrived from Rosetti/Schaller so I got some UNC12 one off ebay, but they are long and need cutting. In the meantime the gears are held with hex-bolts of the right size.

I don't think the chrome surround on the treble pup is my cup of tea. I keep bashing it with my pick. Thinking about Pick-guardian, are these any good?

Plus the bridge keeps moving in the tail-piece (backwards) any advice?

[geofio]

Sean what do you men the bridge keeps moving backwards??

[Billy Apple]

Sean what do you men the bridge keeps moving backwards??

The bridge sits in the tail-piece and was tight against damper side (what I would call the front). As I've been playing I've noticed the whole bridge unit has pivoted backwards, leaving a gap between it and the damper. I'm able to push the bridge forward and back as it sits in the tail-piece.