4003 Mute Question

[meursault42]

Has anyone experimented with different foam materials for the string mute? I'm finding that the stock foam piece is just too dense (e.g. it mutes too heavily). I know this setup probably isn't very popular on here, but I'm trying to go for the flatwounds-with-mute-engaged sound à la Sgt. Peppers. Any thoughts?

[Ashgray]

In my experience, if you need to use the mute, the best position for it can only be found by trial and error. I'd back it off just a little a bit, particularly with flatwound strings.

ash

[meursault42]

In my experience, if you need to use the mute, the best position for it can only be found by trial and error. I'd back it off just a little a bit, particularly with flatwound strings.

ash

I've tried this, but even when it's barely engaged with the strings it's still too much. And of course if you back it off too much you get that weird sitar buzzing sound. I feel like lighter foam would also help to alleviate some of the pitch problems. I have the bridge adjusted all the way back and it's still sharp in the upper register. I even turned around the saddles for the D and G strings so that it would adjust all the way back.

[jps]

I feel like lighter foam would also help to alleviate some of the pitch problems. I have the bridge adjusted all the way back and it's still sharp in the upper register. I even turned around the saddles for the D and G strings so that it would adjust all the way back.

A big part of the problem is the the foam is too wide so the witness point for intonation is pretty far forward causing the out of tune issue. Slicing the foam down to about 1/4" wide, leaving the foam closest to the bridge saddles, will help tremendously bit will not eliminate the intonation problem as it is still forward of the saddles too much, but the pitch will be better up to the 7th fret or thereabouts.

Another thing that is commonly performed is adjusting the arc of the metal plate the foam is glued to as it may not match the arc of the strings to apply even pressure to them. This will be a trial and error kind of thing to get it right. I did this on my old 4001 and the mute works much better now; something to keep in mind is that due to the different string gauges/thicknesses, how well the strings mute as desired will vary somewhat. Using a softer density foam may not work as it will compress more easily and may not mute the string as well, but experimentation is key, here.

GLWTM

[meursault42]

I feel like lighter foam would also help to alleviate some of the pitch problems. I have the bridge adjusted all the way back and it's still sharp in the upper register. I even turned around the saddles for the D and G strings so that it would adjust all the way back.

A big part of the problem is the the foam is too wide so the witness point for intonation is pretty far forward causing the out of tune issue. Slicing the foam down to about 1/4" wide, leaving the foam closest to the bridge saddles, will help tremendously bit will not eliminate the intonation problem as it is still forward of the saddles too much, but the pitch will be better up to the 7th fret or thereabouts.

Another thing that is commonly performed is adjusting the arc of the metal plate the foam is glued to as it may not match the arc of the strings to apply even pressure to them. This will be a trial and error kind of thing to get it right. I did this on my old 4001 and the mute works much better now; something to keep in mind is that due to the different string gauges/thicknesses, how well the strings mute as desired will vary somewhat. Using a softer density foam may not work as it will compress more easily and may not mute the string as well, but experimentation is key, here.

GLWTM

Thanks for the tip! I'm finding that the pitch is tolerable up to about the 12th fret actually (with the D/G string saddles flipped and all of them adjusted all the way back). But the lack of sustain up there is kind of comical. It's useable, but I feel like it could definitely be improved.

The foam that I use on my P-bass is very light, but it's also right up against the bridge... hmm... maybe I should just try so shove some foam between the mute and the bridge. Just seems a shame to have to do that given there's a mute mechanism already built into the tailpiece.

[meursault42]

Also, anyone know where to buy replacement pads?

[ram]

I don't use the mute... I play with a pick and mute with my palm if desired/needed. I have a friend who uses fake lamb's wool as a mute. He just slides a small piece in under the strings and gets exactly the sound he is going for. Apparently you can find it in different density and heights. I think he uses a little piece of double stick tape to keep it in place.

[donhank]

Has anyone experimented with different foam materials for the string mute? I'm finding that the stock foam piece is just too dense (e.g. it mutes too heavily). I know this setup probably isn't very popular on here, but I'm trying to go for the flatwounds-with-mute-engaged sound à la Sgt. Peppers. Any thoughts?

I bought this stuff this morning at our local "big box" home improvement store - will give it a try. The felt strip is 1/2 inch wide, 1/4 inch thick with pressure sensitive adhesive, and comes in a roll which is 60 inches long. That should be enough material for every Ric owner who has ever used the mute !!

[meursault42]

I bought this stuff this morning at our local "big box" home improvement store - will give it a try. The felt strip is 1/2 inch wide, 1/4 inch thick with pressure sensitive adhesive, and comes in a roll which is 60 inches long. That should be enough material for every Ric owner who has ever used the mute !!

felt mute.jpg

100_0988.JPG

Cool, let me/us know how it works out for you