Swap 620 for 660, 650, or keep it?

Dokterrock · Post by **Dokterrock** » Thu Apr 09, 2015 6:33 pm

I have a 2012 620 in Mapleglo that I really love. The neck-through construction combined with the hi-gains is like the absolute perfect guitar tone for the kind of music I make.

Except I'm tired of fighting the narrow nut and small frets. I want nothing more than for this to be my #1, but I'm just too sloppy on it when we play live. I've spent a lot of time comparing it to the other models in the 600 series (in person - I played the **** out of all of them) and they each have their charms and drawbacks, but I'm not sure if I'd REALLY be improving anything by making the switch. Here's what I've determined:

1). The 660 looks very similar to (better than!) the 620 and the neck profile is perfect plus it has the wider fretboard. However, it still has the same small frets and I would have to swap out the toasters with hi-gains, which is a hassle. Also a more expensive guitar overall.

2). The 650 is really nice but on the ones that I've played, the neck profile is very thin (thinner than either the 620 or 660) and the fretboard actually felt perceptibly wider than the 660, even though they should be quite similar. But, the tall frets made it easier to play - I just don't know if I can deal with the skinny profile because they usually make my hand cramp up. I liked the sound of the humbuckers in it and it's possible they might stay, but a swap to hi-gains would still be very likely. Would probably be able to do a straight trade for one of these or break even from selling the 620.

Either model is *almost* right but not quite there, and that of course goes for the 620 as well. If I could get a 660 with the 650's frets and 620's hi-gains then we'd be in business. I shudder to think what a refret costs on a Rickenbacker - more than I can afford, at any rate.

So should I keep the damn thing and just never play it live, or what?

aceonbass · Post by **aceonbass** » Thu Apr 09, 2015 6:45 pm

I'd get a 660. You'll have no problem finding buyers for your Toasters, and swapping pickups on these isn't as hard a bass. The wood used in a 650 is completely different, and the HB1's sound nothing like hi-gains. Refretting a 660 should be around $250.00

Ric5150 · Post by **Ric5150** » Fri Apr 10, 2015 12:01 am

I'm both a good candidate for an opinion and a bad candidate. I have a 660, a 620, and two 650Cs. I think I pretty much understand your position, but I went about solving it a little differently.

I'm not sure what years/models of 650s you've tried, but my 650C necks don't really feel different than the 660. They're all 2007s. The 620 is a 2006. I know necks can vary over model years (the neck in my 2006 340 feels heavier than any 50's RI Gibson I've played).

The 660 came first. Loved it - still do, and never even thought of swapping in hi-gains. Then I got the 620. Loved it, still do, but there are things I just can't play on it. Then came the 650C. Figured that if the HB1s didn't do it for me, I could put in hi-gains. Problem was I liked the HB1s - but they weren't hi-gains.

I was then on the watch for a cool and/or cheap 650C or 660 for my 'wide neck/hi-gain' guitar. Ended up getting the other 650C - and the prior owner had gotten the fretboard stripped. That made for a very nice match to what I wanted it for. Downside is that the 650s don't have the full "classic Rickenbacker" look/vibe. Upside is the more solid bridge which is really more conducive to what I wanted.

The 650C with the bare fretboard and hi-gains really fills that 'gap' nicely. I'm very happy with it. Not sure what choices of 650s you have available to you to check out, but you might be able to find one with a neck you like. You seem to be looking for what I was looking for and that did the trick for me. The 650Cs are also generally a good bit cheaper than the 660s.

The other cool thing was that the second 650C ended up being the S/N after my original 650C. Probably not all that unlikely as they're both BlueBursts and I doubt very many of those were made, but still kinda cool. The 660 and 620 are also BlueBursts - yeah, I kinda have a thing for blue 600-series guitars...

Dokterrock · Post by **Dokterrock** » Fri Apr 10, 2015 1:41 am

Ric5150 wrote:I'm both a good candidate for an opinion and a bad candidate. I have a 660, a 620, and two 650Cs. I think I pretty much understand your position, but I went about solving it a little differently.

I'm not sure what years/models of 650s you've tried, but my 650C necks don't really feel different than the 660. They're all 2007s. The 620 is a 2006. I know necks can vary over model years (the neck in my 2006 340 feels heavier than any 50's RI Gibson I've played).

Downside is that the 650s don't have the full "classic Rickenbacker" look/vibe. Upside is the more solid bridge which is really more conducive to what I wanted.

The 650C with the bare fretboard and hi-gains really fills that 'gap' nicely. I'm very happy with it. Not sure what choices of 650s you have available to you to check out, but you might be able to find one with a neck you like. You seem to be looking for what I was looking for and that did the trick for me. The 650Cs are also generally a good bit cheaper than the 660s.

The other cool thing was that the second 650C ended up being the S/N after my original 650C. Probably not all that unlikely as they're both BlueBursts and I doubt very many of those were made, but still kinda cool. The 660 and 620 are also BlueBursts - yeah, I kinda have a thing for blue 600-series guitars...

Yeah, I think if the 650 looked more like the 620/660 I'd probably have less of a dilemma here. They still look nice but they're not THE classic look. I'm in Los Angeles, so you'd think there would be plenty of options around but the 650 is a rare model of an already fairly rare brand of guitar, and I really hesitate to buy one without playing it first. Damn these quirky guitars! I bet a 660 with a bare fretboard would help get some more clearance on those frets, too, but I'm sure not going to be the one that does THAT experiment...

How do you like the hi-gains without the blend knob? Do you miss it? I usually play my 620 with everything wide open so I probably wouldn't miss it too much.

Ric5150 · Post by **Ric5150** » Sat Apr 11, 2015 12:18 am

Yeah, you give up a bit in "form" to pick up the "function". The 650C really is better suited for what i was going for, though. I'm fortunate in that I didn't have to give up the 660 or 620, so I didn't really have to take on that dilemma.

It's funny, but I really don't miss the 5th knob even though I almost always use it on other Ricks. I play a lot with both pickups on with the neck rolled back quite a ways. You can still do that just fine with the 4-control configuration. There are a number of threads on it, and I don't want to derail your thread down that line of argument, but there's really no need for the 5th knob - even though its kinda handy when its there.

Yeah, you don't see a lot of 650s. Even in the Chicago area where there are quite a few Ricks around, you really don't see them. They're definitely underrated.

Trés Mellow · Post by **Trés Mellow** » Sat Apr 25, 2015 7:00 am

There is another option if you are willing...
My 620 is hands-down my favorite and sent every other solidbody guitar packing. I got it used and it felt amazing from the moment I first picked it up. I had been frustrated with a 360 I owned at the time by the small frets and narrow nut, so I was really surprised. I had noticed before I picked it up that the fretboard finish had been removed, but it took a second to realize what else was so different.
The previous owner had the finish removed and had it refretted with medium stainless steel frets that extend right to the edges of the binding. He also had a wider bone nut installed, which was made possible by the re-fret. The luthier who did the work, Nate of Finger Lakes Guitar Repair, does excellent work.
Now, I have a 620/12 that is stock and I wouldn't change it--I love the low, small frets with the 12 string, though the narrow nut makes for tight fingering--but the setup on the 620/6 is perfect for the way I play a 6 string. I also prefer the 620 neck over the wider 660, too.

Dokterrock · Post by **Dokterrock** » Sat Apr 25, 2015 3:39 pm

It's an interesting suggestion, for sure. I would hate to go through all that and run the risk of not being happy with it, though, you know? So if you could just mail me yours so I can try it out for a while, that would be perfect.

Trés Mellow · Post by **Trés Mellow** » Sat Apr 25, 2015 10:02 pm

Well...if you happen to be nearby, you're welcome to try it out, but It never goes far from me.

Dokterrock · Post by **Dokterrock** » Sat Apr 25, 2015 10:43 pm

I'm in California, unfortunately!

8mileshigher · Post by **8mileshigher** » Wed Apr 29, 2015 4:03 pm

Dokterrock wrote:I'm in California ....

Chris, if you are in So Cal, you might visit True Tone Music up in Santa Monica. They usually have a large Ric inventory and you might be able to try and compare 660 and 650 or 620 models. And if you are in the Bay Area, Haight Ashbury Music on Haight Street usually has a large Ric inventory there too. Check 'em out.

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