Steve
Rickenbacker Maintenance Primer
TRUSS ROD ADJUSTMENTS - OLDER MODELS
If your Rickenbacker is an older model (Pre late 1984), DO NOT TIGHTEN the truss rods if the neck is bowed! This will cause the fingerboard to separate from the neck. The truss rods have to be loosened and the neck manually moved into place. When I am alone, the way that I do it if the neck is bowed and has to be tightened is to loosen the rods slightly, lean the neck at about the 7th fret on my knee with the body hanging down and then snug up the rods. The weight of the body hanging will bring the neck to its correct position. If I have someone with me, I place the guitar on my workbench and I have the other person hold the body in place. With a soft neck rest (I use a beanbag type), I then loosen the rods slightly, manually move the neck into place using the beanbag as a cushion, again somewhere around the 7th fret and then snug up the rods. If the neck is back bowed, then just loosen the rods evenly no more than 3 Hours (¼ turn) daily until the neck sets. You can and should play the guitar between adjustments to get the feel that is right for you.
There is one other very important thing to know. ALWAYS USE A LONG SHAFT ADJUSTMENT WRENCH (¼ Inch Socket) WITH A SCREWDRIVER HANDLE such as the one that usually is available in the boutique section of the Rickenbacker website, and NEVER use a "T" handle wrench. The reason for this is because on the screwdriver handle, if tightened too much your hand will slip on the handle and the truss rods will not snap. With the "T" handle, the danger of snapping the rods is much greater!
It really is a simple procedure once you get over the fear of doing it.
TRUSS ROD ADJUSTMENTS - NEWER MODELS
If it is a 1985 (Actually late 1984) or newer, then you can move the neck by adjusting the rods. The neck should be completely straight. Either way, the neck really should not be adjusted more than 3 Hours (¼ turn) daily, regardless of the age. Of course you can play the guitar between adjustments to see how it feels to you. One adjustment may be all that it needs. Once the neck is straight, you may want to simply lower the bridge just a bit and also lower the pickups as well. This should keep the sound that you desire.
Please keep in mind that the neck should be perfectly straight on all Rickenbacker's, both older and newer.
DUAL TRUSS ROD ADJUSTMENTS – AS STATED BY JOHN HALL
Each rod is more than strong enough to handle all the tension. The system is designed so that each side is as independent as it's possible to be sharing one neck.
Adjust each side to as loose or as tight as necessary to achieve the action you prefer; each piece of wood is different, so it's possible for the rods to be at extreme opposite adjustment to get best results.
Yes, there is some interaction; it's unavoidable. But any combination that provides the desired results is the right setting.
RESTRINGING A 12 STRING RICKENBACKER
First, I remove the bridge cover and place a cotton diaper under the tailpiece to avoid scratching the finish and then remove the old strings. With the new strings in hand, I replace first the slotted strings (Headstock) followed by the others. (See the restringing order below). The procedure is the same whether I am using the "R" tailpiece or the Trapeze tailpiece. I place all of the strings in the slots and place a small piece of masking tape on the bottom side or the tailpiece (Especially the "R" tailpiece) to hold them in place and leave the cotton diaper underneath to keep the tailpiece from scratching the body. I then place a capo (The Kyser usually is the easiest for this purpose) with a weakened spring around the 5th or 6th fret to hold everything in place.
The actual order that I restring is:
11-2-9-4-7-6-12-1-10-3-8-5
The reason I do it this way is to balance the "R" or the Trapeze tailpiece while restringing. This works for me and it takes about 15–20 minutes with the older style slotting.
On the newer through the neck slotting, the time is about the same for me.
RESTRINGING A 6 STRING RICKENBACKER
First, I remove the bridge cover and place a cotton diaper under the tailpiece to avoid scratching the finish and then remove the old strings. With the new strings in hand, whether I am using the "R" tailpiece or the Trapeze tailpiece, I place all of the strings in the slots and place a small piece of masking tape on the bottom side or the tailpiece (Especially the "R" tailpiece) to hold them in place and leave the cotton diaper underneath to keep the tailpiece from scratching the body. I then place a capo (The Kyser usually is the easiest for this purpose)with a weakened spring around the 5th or 6th fret to hold everything in place.
.The order that I restring is:
6-1-5-2-4-3
Again, this keeps the tailpiece in place and balanced.
On models with a fixed bridge such as the 650D, the order of restringing does not matter and the masking tape, diaper, and capo are not necessary since the bridge is in a fixed position and does not move.
Here's how I restring a guitar.....
After threading the string, the first wind is over the threaded hole and all the others are below the threaded hole. This way the first and second wind holds the string securely in place. Also I find that the amount times wound can be important. (The exception to this would be locking tuners such as Sperzel's). I usually wind the low (Bass "e" string) at least 3 times, once over the thread and 2X under. As the strings ate thinner, I increase the amount of winds below the threaded hole. By the time I get to the high E string, I usually have about 6 winds below the threaded hole. This works for me on all guitars, both acoustic and electric. It also holds true on both the 6 string and 12 string guitars. The thinner the string is, the more winds below the threaded hole. I also stretch the strings and re-tune about 3-5 times. This will keep the guitar in tune.
USING THE 5th KNOB AS A BALANCE KNOB
How to use the 5th knob as a balance knob……
With the volume and the treble tone pots turned all of the way up and the bass tone pot turned to the off position and the pickup selector set to the middle position (Both pickups on), the fifth knob acts as a balance between bass and treble.
POLISH
From The Rickenbacker Forum As Stated By John Hall:
Turtle Wax #123- $2.99 a bottle and it works wonderfully.
From the Rickenbacker Owner’s Manual
Polish using any non-abrasive pure carnauba based auto wax if the
finish becomes stained or dull. Inexpensive Turtle Wax ® T-123
mixed 50/50 with water works better than most available specialty
guitar polishes. Wipe in a circular motion at the speed which is slow
enough to see small water bubbles form but fast enough to remove the
polish completely before drying.
From Paul Wilczynski (jingle_jangle) in the RRF Forum (May 05, 2015)
These days, I'm about to run out of original Scratch-X--I use about a tube a year--and have switched to Nu-Finish Scratch Doctor, which except for its smell, is superior to the old Scratch-X. Meguiar's has split the Scratch-X product into two now. There is Scratch-X 2.0, and Swirl-X. The Swirl-X is the stuff you want now to replace the old Scratch-X.
From Paul Wilczynski (jingle_jangle) in the RRF Forum
In the years since I first wrote on this topic, I've had the daily experience of continuing to experiment with all sorts of materials, and my latest refinishes and restorations all benefit from this experimentation.
I'm also going to admit that I'm a big boy, who has taken a new approach toward one of my "locked in concrete" pieces of advice, and reversed my stand on it.
But, first, this news:
CLEARCOAT:
I am now using a new clear coat on all my restorations, which is expensive as he** ($400.00+ per gallon), but is the absolute best thing in the universe that I've found since first using urethane clear coats back in 1983. It's glossier, sets up dust-free in mere minutes, polishes better, and fully cures in 72 hours to an amazingly bullet-proof and solvent-proof glass-like shield over your precious instrument. I've been using it for about 3 months now, and will use it exclusively from now on. It will increase the cost to me of materials about $10.00 per refinish, and for the time being, I'll eat that cost.
FINISH RESTORATION:
You'll recall that I warned customers away from the "new" (now old) Scratch-X 2.0, as it was a coarser abrasive that the original Scratch-X. The original Scratch-X was replaced in my bag of tricks by Swirl-X, which I still recommend for those who can easily score it, and Amazon makes it easier than ever to find and order.
I now have a new polishing material to remove swirl marks and halo scratches, especially on dark finishes like Jetglo, which tend to show these fine defects much sooner and easier than other colors. I use it prior to Zymol, and in place of Swirl-X, though you could theoretically still use Swirl-X after the new stuff and before Zymol.
The new material is MAAS Metal Polish, available in large tins or smaller tubes. This stuff is really good for conversion varnish and lacquer finishes. It starts out as an abrasive paste that is even coarser than Scratch-X 2.0, but as you rub it in vigorously, the abrasive actually breaks down into finer and finer particles, until the finish of the guitar is very close to a mirror. Any very, very fine scratches that may remain will be filled by the application of Zymol liquid. And, as I said, if you really want to drive your significant other crazy ("come to bed, honey, it's 3:30 a.m.!"), you can start out with MAAS, move on to Swirl-X, and then finish off with Zymol. ("Honey, have you been hanging with swimsuit models? Your hands smell like coconuts!")
Do NOT substitute any other metal polishes for MAAS. Especially not Brasso, which will scratch clear coat like crazy. Jury's still out on Simichrome and the various silver creams. Stick to MAAS for the time being.
FINISH PRESERVATION:
I'm still sticking with the Zymol Cleaner-Wax in the light blue plastic bottle. I use Zymol paste on my cars, but the cleaner wax is the stuff to use on guitars. Remember--water-based, no petroleum distillates, no silicone, nothing artificial. Natural carnauba and oils, period. You can build layer upon layer because of the water used as a solvent instead of jet fuel...
APPLICATION AND POLISHING CLOTHS:
For application of polishing materials and Zymol, I still favor cloth diapers, cut up into 4" squares. Launder them in a mesh bag with no fabric softener. Dry them without any dryer sheets, either. Cloth diapers are made of many layers of loose-weave, hypo-allergenic, non-scratching cotton. Common dust will scratch conversion varnish, so keep the diaper squares clean and store them in a zip-lock bag in your case.
Here's where I'll drop the bomb and reverse one of my long-held prejudices that I ranted on and on about...
Whereas I used to curse and swear that they were the devil's invention, I now recommend using microfiber cloths to wipe down your Rickenbacker, and to remove polishes and Zymol as you are detailing the instrument. GASP! They don't work particularly well in applying compounds or wax, as they don't trap enough liquid or paste materials to be effective, but to remove fingerprints from a well-waxed Rickenbacker, or for use along with a spray bottle of cool water to wipe down your Rick, they are the best. Cautionary note: If you have an older finish that hasn't been waxed in awhile, microfibers will micro-scratch! They will take a shiny Jetglo finish that has not been waxed in awhile and make it hazy. But then, you can do the MAAS/Zymol thing and bring it right back. And, if you wipe your finish down with a microfiber cloth and it does show hazing, it's time to wax again.
So, diapers to rub, microfiber to buff and wipe down, as long as there's wax on the clear coat. I buy my microfiber cloths at Home Depot. They sell large bags of them for about $10.00 for 18 cloths in white and orange, mixed. SKU# 675 309. These are big cloths, about a foot square plus. Bargain. Washable and reusable.
That's it, up to date for now. Give 'em a try and report back!
From Paul Wilczynski (jingle_jangle) in the RRF Forum
in the RRF Forum on Oil Finished RICS
I've written on this topic several times. There was a long thread on it about a year or so ago, in which we discussed all sorts of natural and synthetic oils as related to the maintenance of these finishes.
I use Watco's Danish Oil finish to keep oiled finishes looking great. I own a beautiful one-off Greene and Greene "umbrella stand" long case clock in a fumed golden oak finish. Watco's is all I use to keep it looking its best. I purchase the Watco's in pint tins, and use the Natural (colorless) kind. It has tung oil, linseed, a bit of spirits, and natural waxes (I believe) dissolved in small quantities, or maybe the wax is a component of one of the oils.
Watco's is wiped on. It contains no solvents. (Formby's has butyl cellusolve and alcohol to liquify the old finish.)Wipe the Watco's on nice and wet, and let it penetrate for five minutes or so, then using a dry clean cotton cloth, buff the excess off and keep buffing until the waxes rise and the surface feels hard, slick and non-sticky. Do not let the stuff dry--it will remain sticky and attract dust and dirt.
When I do a walnut guitar, I disassemble the body and remove the tuners, too. Then I go over the guitar a couple of times in a row, and reassemble after the final buffing.
Rick's manual mentions a regimen (I'm going from memory) using tung oil and very fine steel wool, I think. My own opinion is: if they recommend it, it must be good. My own way comes from years of working with handmade hardwood stereo component cases, which I used to build back in the '60s and '70s until black became the style.
You can also use a hard paste wax like Johnson's floor wax or Butcher's Boston Wax, applied with fine steel wool and buffed out. Don't let this dry, either, especially Johnson's. It is a bear to remove once dry.
Whenever using these "rub in" products, go WITH the grain of the wood.
So, pick your method and you'll keep your walnut guitar looking good and resisting moisture for a long time.
NEVER use Pledge.
INTONATION (12 String Separate Saddles)
From The Roger McGuinn Video (and from Roger directly)
To get proper intonation from the 12 saddle bridge, you may have to remove the springs from behind the standard Low “E” and the “A” strings (Not the Octaves). The reason for this is that they may have to be moved back as far as they can go for proper intonation.
When I brought my 370/12RM to one of Roger’s shows for him to autograph (which he did), he personally showed me how much the intonation was incorrect due to the saddle placement on these strings.
For the record, I did not have to do this for my 660 and 660/12.
Personal Note: Intonation just as sound in general is very subjective. When adjusting the saddles, it is best to simply adjust for personal satisfaction
INTONATION 6 Saddle Bridge (6 and 12 String)
This one is easy. There is no right or wrong here. As stated above, Intonation is as subjective as sound, therefore it is best to adjust for the sound that you are looking for.
Personal note: I personally prefer the 6 saddle bridge for the 12 string model. The intonation may not be exact, but to me, this is a substantial part of what gives the Rickenbacker 12 string guitar its unique Jangle sound that we all know and love.
Toaster Pickup Re-Issues
Scatterwound 7.4 toasters, which are spot-on reproductions of the originals, have been available since 1999/2000. Compared to Hi-Gains, they are brighter and have fairly low output. Hi-Gains, by comparison are louder and have more of a mid range response.
Pre-1999/2000 toaster reissues are wound hotter than the scatterwounds (and true vintage toasters), and are closer in tone to Hi-Gains. 7.4 is a refrence to the resistance of the pickup, put simply, the output....or power. The pre 1999/2000 toasters were hotter in output, some considerably more. These are the pickups that many have unwound to be closer to vintage spec. You can easily distinguish the older reissues by the Phillips head screws holding the pickup cover to the base. The newer toasters have vintage-correct flathead screws.
PROTECTING THE FINISH FROM BELT BUCKLE RASH
(From The Rickenbacker Forum As Stated By John Hall:)
Anything vinyl will be a BIG problem with your finish. About the only thing readily available in a clear, sheet form that won't damage anything is mylar.
(Personal note)
That said, what I do is simply wear a large fitting shirt NOT tucked in and turn my belt buckle to the left side (Thanks BlueAngel). Prevention is always best. Personally I would NEVER adhere any foreign substance to my Rickenbacker.
Guitar Nut Adjustments
(From The Rickenbacker Forum As Stated By buchrob and BlueAngel)
(From bushrob)
Crazy glue gel mixed with baking soda using a toothpick; add sparingly to the low slot. Let dry overnight then re-file. Needless to say, you should put down something protective such as masking tape on the adjacent areas.
(From BlueAngel)
I use superglue and a small piece of absorbent paper for this - a bit of the typical string packet material is just right - the result is a composite material that's actually as hard as the plastic and holds up very well.
Cut a square of paper about 1/8" square, fold it in half around your fingernail, put a little drop of glue in the slot, place the paper in the slot and use the string (still under tension) to clamp it in. Wait a couple of minutes then take the string out again, and add another small drop of glue to soak the top side of the paper. When this has set too, use a sharp knife to trim as much of the paper away as possible without taking it out of the bottom of the slot, and if necessary a nut file to smooth it out or remove a tiny bit of height if this has raised it too much. You can also use some black ink (CD marker pen is fairly durable) to make it invisible on a black nut
.I do this quite often on vintage guitars where it will compromise the originality and value to replace the nut. I don't normally do it if more than three slots need to be raised. At that point you're better to raise the nut from underneath or replace it. Once it's filed down smoothly it performs as well as the original nut and is pretty much undetectable.
