Was the 80's a good time for 4003's?

[slave]

Hi All,

Long time lurker, but after much reading I'd like to ask a question.
I'm looking to snare a Birth-year bass, 1980 or thereabouts. Give or take 3 years or so.
Looking real hard at the 4003, as Fender P's were garbage in 1980, and I already own an early 80's Maton JB4 (still is my dream bass)

So;
What was the early 80's like for Rick?
Any consistent QC problems or issues I should be aware of? (e.g. tail-lift issues with the 4001)
Did the neck dimensions change much back then?

I'm aware that the pickguard was a two-piece back then, and usually they wore Grovers. Anything else unique to the early 4003's?
Any cool special/unique colours available back then?

Cheers boys and girls
Thanks

[cheyenne]

Play it and see. Every one will feel and sound a little different. I've had something like 18 or 19 Ricks, from 4001's to 4004's and everything in between, however my favorite was a 2001 fireglo 4003. Nothing special about it, I think I traded a Music Man Stingray for it but It felt, played and sounded like no other I've ever had.

[sloop_john_b]

Welcome!

The only tail-lift issues I would be concerned with are on black powder-coated tailpieces, which you'll only see from '85 and beyond. In the early 80's, the tailpieces actually had two extra screws to prevent it further. So you're good there!

While there are certain specific Rick instruments from certain time periods that I would absolutely avoid, there isn't really a strict QC "dark period" like you find with Gibson, Fender, and Martin. They were producing some fine instruments in the early 80's and the '80-'84 production numbers are quite low compared to what came before and after.

Finishes from that period would be Jetglo, Fireglo, Mapleglo, White, Ruby, Burgundy, Walnut / Autumnglo (brown sunburst finishes), and Azureglo (did I miss any there?). On some rare instruments from this period, you'll find checkered binding, which was available as a special order back then.

I do agree with Scott that its hard to predict neck thickness, though I will say that necks from the mid to late 80's are probably the thinnest modern necks you'll find on a Rick bass, and 1980-'84 4003 necks will be on the thicker side.

[slave]

Thanks guys.
Is it normal for the "Rick o Sound" lettering to not be present on these older basses?

Some time ago I tried out a friends' 4001.
The neck felt like a rectangular piece of wood in my hands, with the corners sanded round, but the rectangular feel was very present.
Was this a fairly normal feel for Ricks of this time, or can I expect a neck to feel more rounded like a fender Jazz?

[chefothefuture]

Thanks guys.
Is it normal for the "Rick o Sound" lettering to not be present on these older basses?

Some time ago I tried out a friends' 4001.
The neck felt like a rectangular piece of wood in my hands, with the corners sanded round, but the rectangular feel was very present.
Was this a fairly normal feel for Ricks of this time, or can I expect a neck to feel more rounded like a fender Jazz?

Depends on when the bass was made. A "D" profile as it sounds like you are describing was a regular style with Ricks.
However, a few basses will have a more rounded profile, but this felt more like a Louisville Slugger than a Fender anything....

[bassduke49]

The "Rick-O-Sound" and "Standard" lettering is painted onto the chromed metal of the jackplate. Don't know for sure if it is silk-screened or tampo printed (kinda like a rubber stamp), but the lettering does wear off with use. Some Rick copies have "Stereo" and "Normal" stamped into their jackplates, a tell-tale piece of evidence of a faker (or at least the jackplate from a faker).

[jdogric12]

80-84 in my experience has been mostly good. 85-89's I've played, though, have all been excellent.

[slave]

Thanks for help everyone. Appreciate it

[Snowglo]

FWIW, I've always liked the fatter horns on the 80's bodies compared to the much thinner horns on current models.

[cassius987]

For me, Rics vary more within years than between them. Some of my least favorite Rics to play were either very old, very desirable vintages or fairly new ones. Some of my favorites come from similar periods. Each one seems to be special in its own way, so you really must play it first before deciding. And many hide their best qualities when they are "unhappy" (read: bad setup).

That said, the best playing 4001 or 4003s I have played came from the 80s, 90s and the most recent period (c. 2010 onward). Scott Pope's 4002 is also very good, and I think it was built in the 80s (Scott?). In general, the cheaper models play as well or better than the more expensive ones I try. And then you have ones like my '76 4001FL, which was not much fun to play until it had some major surgery but is now perhaps my best instrument.

[woodyng]

I played an '83 4002 for over 10 years. I felt like it was a bit thicker/heavier than some of the early 70 s Ricks i had owned previously,but it was a very nice,well made bass. Like Cassius said,proper setup is everything with Ricks. Also,differences abound in any era. I have a Laredo and a Cheyenne ii from the same year,2004,and they feel quite different,especially the neck profiles.

[cassius987]

I have a Laredo and a Cheyenne ii from the same year,2004,and they feel quite different,especially the neck profiles.

+1, I think that 4004s teach this lesson better than any other Ric model. I once demoed 4 in the same day from a 2-year span and none felt or sounded exactly alike. The necks and the tones varied quite a lot. 4003s vary like this, but not to nearly the same extent. I imagine the newest 4004s are more consistent now since they switched profiles to the 4003 style, but I've not played one to find out.

[antipodean]

That JB4 will have spoilt you when it comes to neck profiles. In general even the slenderest-necked 4000 series basses will have less taper and thus will feel "chunkier" at some point relative to the Maton.

The 4001 and set-neck 4001S were both sold concurrently with the 4003 in the early 80s, in typical Rickenbacker transition period fashion, so you may want to keep an eye out for one of these. All these basses share the old "hairpin" truss-rod format, and thus are susceptible to neck damage due to poor maintenance (the adjustment mechanism was poorly understood back in the day). There can also be issues with neck angle, with the neck being pulled up, causing high action despite zero relief. As a result, inspecting a 4000 series bass from the period is highly advisable. Buying from a reputable dealer with a comprehensive return policy is a good alternative if you are looking far afield.

[Freez]

My '85 is a fantastic bass!

[slave]

That JB4 will have spoilt you when it comes to neck profiles.

You're not wrong. Of all the basses I've played over the years, the best neck I've ever owned is my current JB4.

So anyway, this happened;



It's an 82 Azure Blue, from a great fella over in Sydney, who just happened to be touring with Sarah Blasko.
He brought it along for the ride for me (thank you). It's in gig-worthy condition, setup very well, but I may pop some flats on it sometime soon together with some strap-locks. Those Rick strap buttons are ridiculously small, how on earth do you stop a bass with those on from hitting the floor?!?!

The neck feels very similar to an '08 Fender P-bass I used to own. Easy to adapt to.
Given what I've read about Ricks, this bass is more than I was expecting to be honest. The tone is open and full, yet easy to focus with the tone controls.
FWIW, this bass already has the tone mod (cap removed)

Colour me impressed.

Thank you very much RR !!!!!