Northern NJ or NYC Bass Repair

Vintage, Modern, V & C series, Fretless, Signature & Special Editions

Moderators: rickenbrother, ajish4

User avatar
LenMinNJ
Intermediate Member
Posts: 739
Joined: Mon Jan 26, 2009 12:08 am

Northern NJ or NYC Bass Repair

Post by LenMinNJ »

I just bought a 2007 4003FG that seems to be having a truss rod problem.

Can anyone recommend a luthier who's expert with Rickenbackers in the northern NJ (Bergen county) or NYC (Manhattan) area? I have the sense that it's a simple and inexpensive repair/adjustment, and don't feel it warrants shipping this bass to my usual repair folks.

Thanks!
User avatar
bassduke49
Senior Member
Posts: 6580
Joined: Wed May 14, 2003 5:00 am

Re: Northern NJ or NYC Bass Repair

Post by bassduke49 »

Check Pick of the Ricks:

pickofthericks.com
Author: "The Rickenbacker Electric Bass - 50 Years As Rock's Bottom"
User avatar
LenMinNJ
Intermediate Member
Posts: 739
Joined: Mon Jan 26, 2009 12:08 am

Re: Northern NJ or NYC Bass Repair

Post by LenMinNJ »

Thanks, Paul! I didn't know that Chris did repairs.
User avatar
bassduke49
Senior Member
Posts: 6580
Joined: Wed May 14, 2003 5:00 am

Re: Northern NJ or NYC Bass Repair

Post by bassduke49 »

He may do some minor things, but I think he has "people" he can go to or recommend for more advanced stuff. He may also have replacement parts in hand.
Author: "The Rickenbacker Electric Bass - 50 Years As Rock's Bottom"
User avatar
LenMinNJ
Intermediate Member
Posts: 739
Joined: Mon Jan 26, 2009 12:08 am

Re: Northern NJ or NYC Bass Repair

Post by LenMinNJ »

I finally had a chance to remove the truss rod cover and have a look.

Looks like the threaded end of one truss rod has snapped off.

Any suggestions how to fix it?

Anyone have instructions about how to replace a truss rod?

(I found two good threads:

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=206583&hilit=truss+ ... ement+4003
viewtopic.php?f=13&t=45238&p=45238&hili ... 003#p45238
)
Attachments
2007 Rick 4003 Truss Rods  1s.jpg
2007 Rick 4003 Truss Rods  2s.jpg
Last edited by LenMinNJ on Fri Oct 07, 2016 1:05 pm, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
bassduke49
Senior Member
Posts: 6580
Joined: Wed May 14, 2003 5:00 am

Re: Northern NJ or NYC Bass Repair

Post by bassduke49 »

Looks to me that it is still there. The nuts are long and there must be SOME threaded rod inside just to hold the nut where it is. However, it is unusual to see this inequality. Can you see the "acorn" nuts at the body end of the neck (under the fingerboard)? You should be able to see them behind the edge of the pickguard. If one of them looks closer to the pickguard than the other, then it may be that it needs to be pushed back inside and that will expose more thread at the head end so you can tighten the nut some more.

Let's go back to the beginning first, though. Do you have a problem with the neck that you are trying to correct with the truss rods?
Author: "The Rickenbacker Electric Bass - 50 Years As Rock's Bottom"
User avatar
LenMinNJ
Intermediate Member
Posts: 739
Joined: Mon Jan 26, 2009 12:08 am

Re: Northern NJ or NYC Bass Repair

Post by LenMinNJ »

bassduke49 wrote:Do you have a problem with the neck that you are trying to correct with the truss rods?
Thanks for your help, Paul.

Starting at the beginning...

I bought it with the known problem of way too much relief on the fretboard. String height above 12th fret was around 1/4-inch. The seller told me that he'd brought it to a luthier who tried to adjust the truss rods, but couldn't flatten out the neck.

Larry Davis told me how to check if the problem was neck lift or a much simpler truss rod issue. Fortunately, it was the latter.

I removed the truss rod cover and I found the one rod had a short thread.
User avatar
bassduke49
Senior Member
Posts: 6580
Joined: Wed May 14, 2003 5:00 am

Re: Northern NJ or NYC Bass Repair

Post by bassduke49 »

OK. How about the acorn nuts at the body end. Can you see them? Do they look to be at the same depth? If they are, then there may have been a truss rod problem that made some tech shorten the rod to the point where you can't see thread at the head end. In that case, the best "cure" may be to replace it with a new rod and do a proper setup.
Author: "The Rickenbacker Electric Bass - 50 Years As Rock's Bottom"
User avatar
LenMinNJ
Intermediate Member
Posts: 739
Joined: Mon Jan 26, 2009 12:08 am

Re: Northern NJ or NYC Bass Repair

Post by LenMinNJ »

Here's a photo of the neck butt end of the truss rods.

The E-side truss rod looks to have been replaced. It doesn't have the factory stock acorn nut, while the G-side one does. That explains the short threads at the headstock side.

I've ordered truss rods from Rickenbacker.

(The wire heading into the neck butt that you see in the photo is for the fretboard side-dot marker LEDs installed by SimS over in the UK: http://www.simscustom.com/html/00leds.htm )
Attachments
2007 Rick 4003 Truss Rods Body.jpg
User avatar
bassduke49
Senior Member
Posts: 6580
Joined: Wed May 14, 2003 5:00 am

Re: Northern NJ or NYC Bass Repair

Post by bassduke49 »

Yeah, definitely someone has been monkeying around in there. You'll have to push/pull the rod out through the body side. Good luck. I think once you have the proper truss rod in there, you'll be able to get things back to normal. Oh, BTW, looks like you have an Amber Fireglo, the "Color of the Year" for 2006. The code AFG and the yellowed binding on the neck confirm it. AFG continued for a couple more years as they filled orders placed in 2006. Enjoy! :D
Author: "The Rickenbacker Electric Bass - 50 Years As Rock's Bottom"
User avatar
jps
RRF Consultant
Posts: 37507
Joined: Wed Feb 12, 2003 6:00 am

Re: Northern NJ or NYC Bass Repair

Post by jps »

LenMinNJ wrote:Here's a photo of the neck butt end of the truss rods.

The E-side truss rod looks to have been replaced. It doesn't have the factory stock acorn nut, while the G-side one does. That explains the short threads at the headstock side.

I've ordered truss rods from Rickenbacker.

(The wire heading into the neck butt that you see in the photo is for the fretboard side-dot marker LEDs installed by SimS over in the UK: http://www.simscustom.com/html/00leds.htm )
Maybe there was a problem along the way with the LED instalationl and that rod needed work done to it, perhaps?
User avatar
LenMinNJ
Intermediate Member
Posts: 739
Joined: Mon Jan 26, 2009 12:08 am

Re: Northern NJ or NYC Bass Repair

Post by LenMinNJ »

Thanks again for the help, Paul.

The serial number says its from 2007, so it's one of those that was ordered in 2006 and manufactured in 2007.

It's an interesting bass. Besides the very pretty AFG finish and the side marker LEDs, it came with a nice silver case and a push/pull pot in the position nearest the jacks. I have yet to try and figure out what the pot does in the pull position.
User avatar
LenMinNJ
Intermediate Member
Posts: 739
Joined: Mon Jan 26, 2009 12:08 am

Re: Northern NJ or NYC Bass Repair

Post by LenMinNJ »

jps wrote:Maybe there was a problem along the way with the LED installation and that rod needed work done to it, perhaps?
Could be. I'm hoping that the truss rod problem is unrelated to the LEDs. Time will tell.

I'll post progress as I continue working the repair.
User avatar
bassduke49
Senior Member
Posts: 6580
Joined: Wed May 14, 2003 5:00 am

Re: Northern NJ or NYC Bass Repair

Post by bassduke49 »

Len, the "vintage tone" push/pull switch has been standard on the 4003 since 2006. It involves the addition/bypass of a .0047 microfarad capacitor that used to be a standard in older Rick basses up into the early/mid '80s. Basically, it is a bass cut capacitor for the treble pickup, decreasing bass response on that pickup. If you appreciate the more tinny sound from that pickup with the cap installed, you just pull up the knob and you have it. Push it back down, and you get more "balls" (increased bass response) from the treble pickup.
Author: "The Rickenbacker Electric Bass - 50 Years As Rock's Bottom"
User avatar
jps
RRF Consultant
Posts: 37507
Joined: Wed Feb 12, 2003 6:00 am

Re: Northern NJ or NYC Bass Repair

Post by jps »

bassduke49 wrote:Len, the "vintage tone" push/pull switch has been standard on the 4003 since 2006. It involves the addition/bypass of a .0047 microfarad capacitor that used to be a standard in older Rick basses up into the early/mid '80s. Basically, it is a bass cut capacitor for the treble pickup, decreasing bass response on that pickup. If you appreciate the more tinny sound from that pickup with the cap installed, you just pull up the knob and you have it. Push it back down, and you get more "balls" (increased bass response) from the treble pickup.
Actually, you have it backwards, Paul. When the switch is in the up position the tone is the standard Rick bass tone. When pushed down it activates B.A.L.L.S (Building And Levee Leveling System).

Hope this helps.
Post Reply

Return to “Rickenbacker Basses: by Joey Vasco & Tony Cabibe”