Truss rod 4001c64 2009

[_macca_]

Hi all!

Could you tell me what type of truss rod my 2009 4001C64 has and how I should proceed to adjust it? Thank you very much.

There is a lot of information on the forums, but not about this specific model. Since it is a reissue, I have some doubts about it.

On the Rickenbacker website it only says: “The only concession to modern technology has been a redesigned dual truss rod system permitting round wound strings as standard.”


Thanks for your help!

[maxwell]

One explanation, pretty good, I think:
https://www.talkbass.com/threads/truss- ... n.1030705/

[jps]

Hi all!

Could you tell me what type of truss rod my 2009 4001C64 has and how I should proceed to adjust it? Thank you very much.

There is a lot of information on the forums, but not about this specific model. Since it is a reissue, I have some doubts about it.

On the Rickenbacker website it only says: “The only concession to modern technology has been a redesigned dual truss rod system permitting round wound strings as standard.”


Thanks for your help!

Reading between the lines here, have you ever adjusted truss rods, before? Do you know how to "make them work for you", so to speak?

[_macca_]

Hi all!

Could you tell me what type of truss rod my 2009 4001C64 has and how I should proceed to adjust it? Thank you very much.

There is a lot of information on the forums, but not about this specific model. Since it is a reissue, I have some doubts about it.

On the Rickenbacker website it only says: “The only concession to modern technology has been a redesigned dual truss rod system permitting round wound strings as standard.”


Thanks for your help!

Reading between the lines here, have you ever adjusted truss rods, before? Do you know how to "make them work for you", so to speak?

I bought it second hand and so far I haven't needed to do so.

[_macca_]

One explanation, pretty good, I think:
https://www.talkbass.com/threads/truss- ... n.1030705/

Thank you very much. From what I'm reading, I understand that the truss rod is double (something that is obvious) but double action (the modern one). Is this correct?

[_macca_]

This is mine

[maxwell]

No, they look like typical RIC truss rods. From what I gleaned from that link/discussion I posted, is that the rods in your guitar simply have a longer threaded portion, allowing more tightening (allowing the adjustment nut to be tightened/screwed down further than the alternative, typical, common rods) before bottoming out/stopping on the unthreaded portion of the rods.

So, being regular rods, relief/action adjustments entail a balance between the pull of the strings vs. the resistance to that pull (to flexing/bending of the neck) offered by the neck and its truss rod adjustment (relative "tightness"). If you're happy with your guitar's action, then good. If you need to change the action, do it very slowly (like one quarter turn of both nuts and then waiting at least a full day before re-evaluating and adjusting again, if needed). There are many tales of woe from guys who adjusted too impatiently or heavy-handed.

[_macca_]

No, they look like typical RIC truss rods. From what I gleaned from that link/discussion I posted, is that the rods in your guitar simply have a longer threaded portion, allowing more tightening (allowing the adjustment nut to be tightened/screwed down further than the alternative, typical, common rods) before bottoming out/stopping on the unthreaded portion of the rods.

So, being regular rods, relief/action adjustments entail a balance between the pull of the strings vs. the resistance to that pull (to flexing/bending of the neck) offered by the neck and its truss rod adjustment (relative "tightness"). If you're happy with your guitar's action, then good. If you need to change the action, do it very slowly (like one quarter turn of both nuts and then waiting at least a full day before re-evaluating and adjusting again, if needed). There are many tales of woe from guys who adjusted too impatiently or heavy-handed.

Thank you very much for your clarifications. Finally, and so that I can be 100% clear. I have to adjust as if it were a normal guitar:

https://youtube.com/shorts/mbeSAMJ5JiQ? ... z2f1LhRrDg

Or like this video:

https://youtube.com/shorts/kMlC0OyWgU8? ... 80DzSztMt_

Obviously it is not the same to have to tense the neck downwards. This is my main doubt regarding the adjustment. I understood that this only had to be done with basses prior to 1984.

[jps]

Obviously it is not the same to have to tense the neck downwards. This is my main doubt regarding the adjustment. I understood that this only had to be done with basses prior to 1984.

Regardless of brand of instrument or type of truss rod(s) it is always best practice to pull the neck back an appropriate amount when tightening the truss rod(s).

[maxwell]

Obviously it is not the same to have to tense the neck downwards. This is my main doubt regarding the adjustment. I understood that this only had to be done with basses prior to 1984.

Regardless of brand of instrument or type of truss rod(s) it is always best practice to pull the neck back an appropriate amount when tightening the truss rod(s).

Amen.

While I briefly "explained" how to adjust/tighten the truss rods conventionally, this is not what I currently do in reality. If I'm adjusting a RIC, I'm pulling the neck down as I tighten the nuts. You have to be prudent about this (hence jps's cautionary "appropriate"). A lot of guys aren't at all comfortable about cranking or pushing down the neck on their $2-4K baby, and so the conventional method (for these types of truss rods) would be best for them, or better yet, taking it to an RIC-experienced technician or luthier to do this.

I really like that second link/video posted. If you have the tools (or are willing to buy them) and the space, this would be the way to go; very gradual and controlled adjustments. My only concern would be that once you put the strings on, tune up, allow a settling-in period and re-tune, you might find yourself wanting or needing to readjust the rods.... I, myself, the last time I did this was to anchor/hold down the body of the guitar with my leg, as if I were getting onto a bicycle. Losen the strings considerably, guitar neck support under the neck, the side of my leg/knee on the guitar body, one hand to push the neck down/backwards slightly (actually, imperceptibly), and tighten the nuts with the other hand. If you're doing this properly, you will find that the nuts are (at the precise moment of adjustment) rather "loose." Screw them down without really tightening them. Tighten the strings back up, re-tune and then check your measurements/action. Repeat if necessary to further adjust. If OK, wait a couple of days and check your measurements or simply the "feel" of the action and make your judgment as to adjust again or leave it alone/satisfied.

All this can be intimidating. I've spent hours correcting truss rod deficiencies (on my used/new to me abused guitars) -- removing the rods, doing this and that, etc., reassembling, adjusting, etc., etc. and it's a PITA. It was somewhat fun on the first guitar, but not the second; I don't want to do that again. Nowadays I just preclude any adjustment complications by pre-positioning the neck, as described. The necks are not as fragile as you fear they might be. Good luck. Just take your time, have fun, avoid working on it if you're tired or just don't really feel like it at the time.

There are several posts here about how this is done (guitars and basses); individual variations, recommendations. See what you're comfortable with.

[_macca_]

Thank you for your answer! From what i've been researching, the 4001c64 has the same truss rod as the 4003 model. So it seems that it is not necessary to make the adjustment as seen in video 2, this is exclusive for hairpin truss rod (before 1981). Is that correct?

https://youtu.be/0l4D2Q6gKSM?si=MvuAsayyGOfra1Y4

[maxwell]

Same guy, better video (updated): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aNW3T7Orfmk

Yes, the truss rods are not the hairpin type. You don't *have* to pull the neck back.

Defaulting back to jps' advice (above), it's just a prudent thing to do.

[_macca_]

Same guy, better video (updated): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aNW3T7Orfmk

Yes, the truss rods are not the hairpin type. You don't *have* to pull the neck back.

Defaulting back to jps' advice (above), it's just a prudent thing to do.

Thank you a lot for your help! And jps too.

[jps]

Same guy, better video (updated): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aNW3T7Orfmk

Yes, the truss rods are not the hairpin type. You don't *have* to pull the neck back.

Defaulting back to jps' advice (above), it's just a prudent thing to do.

Thank you a lot for your help! And jps too.

Pulling the neck back is to relieve the truss rod(s) from having to do all the work in bending the neck to the relief you want. Truss rod(s) are there to hold the neck in place, not to do the moving part, too. But, that's just me, you do whatever you want with your instrument.

[maxwell]

Pulling the neck back is to relieve the truss rod(s) from having to do all the work in bending the neck to the relief you want. Truss rod(s) are there to hold the neck in place, not to do the moving part, too.

This is a profound observation. Most excellent!