Another RickNewb Question:
Is there a "best practices" method to determine the string spacing and subsequent marking/notching/filing of a Rick-brand (un-notched) 12-saddle bridge? When I've done my six-string guitars I've always taken an old set of strings, placed them on their saddles exactly where I want them and then given each of them a small/sharp hammer hit to "indent" mark the location. I then file as needed to create the final saddle slots.
Any hints/secrets about a Better Way would be most appreciated!
12-saddle string spacing-notching
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- kennyhowes
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Re: 12-saddle string spacing-notching
I'd use a file rather than a hammer!
Small mark to make sure it's the right spot, then go back later and file to the preferred depth.
Small mark to make sure it's the right spot, then go back later and file to the preferred depth.
Re: 12-saddle string spacing-notching
To be clear, the "hammer tap" is just to mark where the string goes (without moving it aside on the saddle) and THEN go back with the file set to actually create/clean the groove.
Re: 12-saddle string spacing-notching
I just installed a 12-saddle bridge on my 360/12v64.
I just put the old bridge right behind the new bridge with the strings slackened. I was able to eyeball it pretty close that way.
Also with the strings on the guitar you can kinda eyeball that the strings are straight coming from the tailpiece, and you can examine the string spacing on the neck, and kinda eyeball it. I got very very close. The tapping method is a good one too.
I just put the old bridge right behind the new bridge with the strings slackened. I was able to eyeball it pretty close that way.
Also with the strings on the guitar you can kinda eyeball that the strings are straight coming from the tailpiece, and you can examine the string spacing on the neck, and kinda eyeball it. I got very very close. The tapping method is a good one too.
