RWRP Question?

[Hintz]

Which pickup would be easier the do this to, a RIHS or a reissue Toaster? I have both in my 4003, and a few of the clubs I play(one a bi-weekly residency), I get real bad noise/interference, enough where the sound techs take issue and point this out to me. And yes, it is properly shielded with copper foil in both all the cavities, and the backside of the pickguard. I love my tone otherwise, if this isn't an option I am looking at the Nordenbocker, don't want to replace both, I love the RIHS's tone waaay too much!! Thank you

[teeder]

I would leave the HS alone, since you like it so much, and get an extra neck pu and have it modded.

[Hintz]

I would leave the HS alone, since you like it so much, and get an extra neck pu and have it modded.

Yeah, I was hoping this mod could be performed on the toaster, if not the Nordenbocker sounds like the best choice in keeping the tone the same, thanks for the reply!!

[lumgimfong]

Is your bridge pup cavity copper shielding connected to your control cavity copper shielding? A minuscule strip over the face between these two cavities gets it done without needing to run anything thru the wire hole. And you really can’t even notice it.

[Hintz]

Is your bridge pup cavity copper shielding connected to your control cavity copper shielding? A minuscule strip over the face between these two cavities gets it done without needing to run anything thru the wire hole. And you really can’t even notice it.
IMG_1695.jpeg

I'll have to check

[Hintz]

Is your bridge pup cavity copper shielding connected to your control cavity copper shielding? A minuscule strip over the face between these two cavities gets it done without needing to run anything thru the wire hole. And you really can’t even notice it.
IMG_1695.jpeg

It isn't, this next week some copper foil should arrive, I will try this for sure. I made a new split pickguard based off the 4000 layout with simpler electronics(master volume, master tone, toggle and mini for the .0047 cap). Then will be a great opportunity to do this, as well as checkout both pickups to see if flipping one of the magnets on either is even feasible?!

[Hintz]

[Hintz]

Made the new one from excess pickguard material, hope it yellows like the older one. Made lots of electronics plates when I apprenticed for a guitar builder a few years back.

[lumgimfong]

Also, is the copper tape on the back of the pickguard in contact with at least one pot washer? Like you clamped the pot in place over the tape? If not then you have to find another way to ground the copper tape like run a tape jumper strip from shielding to a pot shell.
Also be sure that the copper tape used has conductive adhesive backing and use a multimeter to check for connectivity between all the pieces of tape.
No need to shield the neck cavity if this a modern HiGain or modern toaster with the grey cable cover.

Final ground test it multimeter conductivity test measured from strings to output jack. Can also do shielding tape to output jack test too just to be sure it is properly grounded.
My 4003 I also converted to toggle/volume/tone control layout. I like the simpler controls!!

[Hintz]

Also, is the copper tape on the back of the pickguard in contact with at least one pot washer? Like you clamped the pot in place over the tape? If not then you have to find another way to ground the copper tape like run a tape jumper strip from shielding to a pot shell.
Also be sure that the copper tape used has conductive adhesive backing and use a multimeter to check for connectivity between all the pieces of tape.
No need to shield the neck cavity if this a modern HiGain or modern toaster with the grey cable cover.

Final ground test it multimeter conductivity test measured from strings to output jack. Can also do shielding tape to output jack test too just to be sure it is properly grounded.
My 4003 I also converted to toggle/volume/tone control layout. I like the simpler controls!!

Thank you!! Yes, the plates were shielded before the pots were in place, but I will make sure it's all good with a multi meter, as well as a little string from back pickup to the electronics plate

[Hintz]

[Hintz]

Also, is the copper tape on the back of the pickguard in contact with at least one pot washer? Like you clamped the pot in place over the tape? If not then you have to find another way to ground the copper tape like run a tape jumper strip from shielding to a pot shell.

Do you mean the foil underneath one of the knobs, or slightly on the outside, or is the pic I sent what you mean?

[lumgimfong]

Your picture of the pickguard shows that the shielding on the pickguard will contact the pot washers when the pots are installed, so that’s fine. That’s what I was talking about. Mines like that too.

[Hintz]

Your picture of the pickguard shows that the shielding on the pickguard will contact the pot washers when the pots are installed, so that’s fine. That’s what I was talking about. Mines like that too. IMG_1701.jpeg

So I plan on adding a thin strip connecting the HS and pickguard, but I noticed there is none in the channel from the toaster to the electronics plate, should I add some there?

[Hintz]

I sorta disassembled both pickups, will I be able to flip the magnet on either of these for RWRP? Though these both seem to be very similarly made, but neither looks like the Hi-gains, where the magnet is at the bottom.