30 year old guitar, stuck bridge saddles

[Blomp]

Hi

I recently purchased a '95 330JG - and I'm having a minor issue with adjusting the intonation - the G and B string saddle adjustment screws are completely stuck, to the point where the hex key just slips out of the adjustment slot in the screw head if I apply any serious torque. The others are all very tight but I got them dialed in with a bit of effort. Any suggestions on how I can get these two screws unstuck?

(I'm aware I could tilt the bridge back a little to compensate, but I'd rather do it the "proper" way - I don't have a movable bridge base on this one either).

[Uffingdon]

Personally I would remove the bridge from the guitar to lubricate all the threads first with WD-40 and then some light machine oil to free them up. To save time with the re-instillation measure the location of each saddle in relation to the bridge channel before making any adjustments, should be good for another 30 yrs or so.

[doctorwho]

Personally I would remove the bridge from the guitar to lubricate all the threads first with WD-40 and then some light machine oil to free them up. To save time with the re-instillation measure the location of each saddle in relation to the bridge channel before making any adjustments, should be good for another 30 yrs or so.

+1

Worst case scenario is that you might have to totally disassemble it to do a really deep clean/lube for all of the parts.

[maxwell]

+2. There are no meaningful shortcuts here. Take photos as you remove and disassemble the bridge if you want; I've done some stuff where I thought something/orientation, etc., was obvious and simple and I wouldn't/couldn't forget that, but was thoroughly confused when it came time to reassemble. I had to search the Internet to find a good photo.

I've researched cleaning guitar parts but haven't gotten around to my worst guitar yet, one that will definitely need it: distilled white vinegar soak, then washing, drying and lubrication. I'm sure there are other preferred deep cleaning agents, but the vinegar is pretty safe, and removes corrosion.

The only thing I'd be concerned about is the condition of your adjustment screws. You said your hex key slipped out of a couple. Check and see if the inside of the hex screw is still distinctly hex and not rounded out from forcefully applying hex key leverage.

[Blomp]

Thanks for the replies so far - I got around to cleaning/lubricating everything and that's helped to loosen everything up.

the G saddle hex slot was slightly rounded out and the B string saddle was quite severely so, after lubricating it I could just about get the G saddle screw to turn and pull the saddle back to where it needed to be, but I couldn't get the B saddle screw to slot back into the correct position due to how easily the tool was slipping out. So I've currently got the intonation set up pretty good, but the B saddle screw is sticking out of the bottom of the bridge by about 2mm and the tip isn't seated in the hole at the other end like it should be - but the saddle is stable and in the right position for good intonation, there's no rattling or anything, so it works even if it looks a bit sloppy

I think my best bet is to get a new set of saddle screws from rickysounds, though - the hex slots all seem a little worn and all had a tendency to slip, just less so than the G and B screws. wish I'd thought of this when I ordered replacement foam pads for the pickups to replace the permanently fully compressed disintegrating ones!

[maxwell]

So far, so good. Maybe order a couple of extra screws while you're at it, just in case you lose one or one gets damaged; shipping charges are killer nowadays.

You described how tight the screws were. It occurred to me that *maybe* a previous owner put some sort of glue (or something) around those screws to lock them in place, e.g., if he thought the saddles were moving gradually (or maybe rattling). Just surmising here....

I bought a used guitar that had a Floyd Rose tremolo on it. All the "hex slots" were rounded out to some degree. Since I had both Imperial (SAE) and Metric hex keys (Allen wrenches) I investigated. I'm pretty sure that the rounding out was due to the previous owner/adjuster using the wrong type--and therefore--the wrong size (diameter) key. If so, the fit of the key into the slot is always going to be loose, turning a bit initially, and this results in the ridges of the key engaging the flat portions of the hex slot. Well, there isn't any true engaging (locking in), just contact, and the pressure applied during screw turning just scrapes, deforms those flat portions, enlarging the hex slot hole diameter. Well, something like that... you get the gist of what I'm saying. In my case, the proper/well-fitting hex key (Metric, for this German-made trem) still worked because the interior "corners" of the hex slot were still mostly intact, not severely deformed.

[Blomp]

So far, so good. Maybe order a couple of extra screws while you're at it, just in case you lose one or one gets damaged; shipping charges are killer nowadays.

Luckily I'm in the UK so the shipping charges are just the standard postal rate here

It might be worth seeing if I have a nearly approximate sized metric allen wrench, now that you mention it - that said, I know i can pull the most worn screw out again with it already half way out, which is the reason I didn't try to get it all the way back in. If I get it all the way back in, i may not be able to get enough leverage against the worn hex slot to get it out again!

Alternatively, I could get my friend to cut some flat slots into the old screws so I can adjust them with a flathead screwdriver... or would such an act be considered haram around here

[maxwell]

Being a USA-manufactured product, I thought that the screw head/Allen wrench type would be SAE. I have a couple of really inexpensive sets, one of each type -- crudely made, and I could not tell if 1.5mm or 5/64 inch was correct. So I dug out my good set of metric (made by Wera) and found that the 1.5mm is too small. I dug out an SAE set of fairly decent quality and the 5/64-inch seemed to fit.

I tried to look up the part number, etc. on the RIC website; the diagrams for the 330 models are no longer posted. What a shame that site has become....

I ended up (where else!?) at RickySounds, part number 05303, but could not find any wrenches for sale.

So I asked the AI "Copilot" that Microsoft provides, link always present on the top right corner of any web page. Here's the essential information (to keep it short):


What type of wrench does this screw require: Screw Socket 6-32 x 3/4 BTN HX

This screw is designed with an internal hex socket—often marketed as a "button hex" screw—so you’ll need a hex wrench (commonly called an Allen wrench) to install or remove it. In other words, rather than using an open-end or box-end wrench, you should select a hex key that properly fits the recess in the screw’s head. Typically, the right size is determined by the screw’s design specifications (for example, many #6-32 screws of this style tend to use one of the smaller sizes in an Allen set), so if you don’t have the size details handy, it’s best to measure the socket or consult the manufacturer’s documentation.


This screw is for a guitar bridge saddle adjustment. The part is a Rickenbacker #05303. I think that the correct Allen wrench size is SAE 5/64 inch. What do you say?

Based on Rickenbacker’s documentation and community experience, you’re correct—a SAE 5/64-inch Allen wrench is the proper size for the saddle adjustment screw (#05303) on many of their 6-saddle bridges. Rickenbacker offers a set of adjustment wrenches for their bridges, and the long-arm wrench in that set is specified as 5/64-inch, which fits the internal hex socket of this particular screw. Using the correct size helps prevent stripping the screw head and ensures smooth, precise adjustments.

Historically, guitar technicians and enthusiasts have confirmed that while some Allen wrenches may feel too large or too small, the SAE 5/64-inch size consistently provides the right engagement for these Rickenbacker saddle screws. If you’re ever in doubt, it’s a good idea to test the fit gently or even consult directly with a trusted guitar technician, but all signs point to your choice being spot on.

So, there you go. Good luck.

[maxwell]

I was curious what the difference between 5/64 in. and 2 mm. Some conversion charts say that they are equivalent. Calculating is more precise: 5/64 in. = 1.984375 mm. If tolerances are extremely tight, the 2 mm will not work well; a tad too large.

I've found that there is a lot of variability between hex keys/different manufacturers, and the same is probably true of the screws. I think the best bet is to find a good fitting hex key for your new screws when they come in before installing them.

[maxwell]

https://reverb.com/item/84654159-ricken ... ong-guitar

Currently out of stock from this UK dealer....

Like you implied, a slotted screw head would be easier to deal with. Here's an example; a "combo" screw that accommodates both slot and Phillips screw drivers (and it's stainless steel). Maybe there's a similar screw in the UK.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-6- ... /204274781

[Uffingdon]

“Like you implied, a slotted screw head would be easier to deal with. Here's an example; a "combo" screw that accommodates both slot and Phillips screw drivers (and it's stainless steel). Maybe there's a similar screw in the UK.“

https://www.rickysounds.co.uk/product/v ... epair-kit/

These work great with the Rick bridge, no need for springs and the screws will not back out when making adjustments!

[Blomp]

“Like you implied, a slotted screw head would be easier to deal with. Here's an example; a "combo" screw that accommodates both slot and Phillips screw drivers (and it's stainless steel). Maybe there's a similar screw in the UK.“

https://www.rickysounds.co.uk/product/v ... epair-kit/

These work great with the Rick bridge, no need for springs and the screws will not back out when making adjustments!

That's a great suggestion (the screws backing out is the most infuriating thing for me when setting up a Ric!) although I suspect that the bolts at the other end might not fit my 330 as the bridge pickup is positioned so close to the bridge. They'd probably fit my 620s though. Perhaps I should get a set for one of the 620s and transplant the stock screws from that into the 330 bridge

[Uffingdon]

Here’s a pic of my 350v63 bridge fitted with the Rickysounds screws/nuts

[Blomp]

Here’s a pic of my 350v63 bridge fitted with the Rickysounds screws/nuts

That bridge pickup isn't quite as close to the bridge as it is on pretty much any post-'84 330 or 360.

Not my guitar, but this how small of a gap between the bridge and the pickup I'm dealing with:



While this is certainly a preferable solution, I'm not convinced it's a suitable one for my 330.

[Uffingdon]

Is your bridge base plate the latest version with slotted mounting holes allowing for more adjustment back and forth?
Maybe as your 330 is a 95’ the base plate is not, in that case you could fit the newer slotted type and move the whole bridge back and then re-adjust the saddles forward to compensate and achieve correct intonation with the fitment of the slotted adjustment screws.

Just a thought